Want to make sure i'm doing this right. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 39 Old 09-11-2011, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Want to make sure i'm doing this right.

Hey Fellas i'm looking to pull the trigger on a 2003 F-350 with the 7.3 in it and 130,000 miles. It will be my first diesel truck and i want it to last a good long time. I live in central Wisconsin where temps drop to -20F or more. I already read over NcHornet's Winter Operation sticky already about cold weather starting and checks. So if you guys could let me know if i'm on the right track or not it would sure help.

1. Oil Change every 5000 miles with 5w-40 Rotella or Amsoil Diesel Oils. With Motorcraft Filter

2. Fuel Filter every 10-15,000 miles with Motorcraft Filter.

3. Tranny Flush every 30,000 miles (it's an auto)

4. Cloolant Flush (if Green, will go Gold)

5. Last i was wondering if during winter there are any additives to fuel i need. I'm pretty sure being in a winter state gas stations use the winter diesel during colder months.

Thanks for any help guys, i really appreciate it!
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post #2 of 39 Old 09-11-2011, 08:07 AM
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you don't want gold coolant, if your going to change it out instead of green flush and switch to ecl1 rated coolant.


2000 DRW CC 7.3
Exterior: 08 Exterior Clone, 22.5's
Engine Mods: GTP38R WW2, 5 inch exhaust,T500, 6637, TW tunes,DI Up pipes, 6.7 fuel pump fuel system.
Trans Mods: 6.0 trans cooler, JW Valve body,Billet triple disc converter.
Sound Mods: 7" flip out tv, 3-way speakers all around, 12" sub, 500 watt amp.
Misc:dieselsite coolant filter, max ac assist, BRV, IHD,gauges, CCV

Next up power rear window
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post #3 of 39 Old 09-11-2011, 08:27 AM
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All correct except coolant. Use a red basically. An EC1 rated coolant. Or something like that. It's an Extended Life Coolant for diesels. Drain all coolant, fill w/distilled water, run, drain, do again, maybe a third time, then drain again, fill with HALF the systems capacity of concentrated coolant (4gals) and then top off with distilled. Gets you as close to a 50/50 as you can get.
And don't use lucas or any oil additive. Just fuel additives.



2000 F-350 Lariat Super Duty, Dually, CCLB, 7.3L
4R100, 2wd
330,000 + miles
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post #4 of 39 Old 09-11-2011, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, i had heard to go gold, but if green is the way to go then green it is. I'm assuming it should be flushed every 30,000 miles or so? Thanks for the info campbellflage.
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post #5 of 39 Old 09-11-2011, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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lol ok jesilvas. I had replied just as you had. So an EC1 coolant huh. Thanks guys, really appreciated.
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post #6 of 39 Old 09-11-2011, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northlandtough View Post
Ok, i had heard to go gold, but if green is the way to go then green it is. I'm assuming it should be flushed every 30,000 miles or so? Thanks for the info campbellflage.
There is nothing wrong with green, you just have to monitor the coolant with the test strips and additives as needed.


2000 DRW CC 7.3
Exterior: 08 Exterior Clone, 22.5's
Engine Mods: GTP38R WW2, 5 inch exhaust,T500, 6637, TW tunes,DI Up pipes, 6.7 fuel pump fuel system.
Trans Mods: 6.0 trans cooler, JW Valve body,Billet triple disc converter.
Sound Mods: 7" flip out tv, 3-way speakers all around, 12" sub, 500 watt amp.
Misc:dieselsite coolant filter, max ac assist, BRV, IHD,gauges, CCV

Next up power rear window
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post #7 of 39 Old 09-11-2011, 08:33 AM
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Green will have plenty of silicate (sand) in it and not the proper SCAs in them. Coolant additives that prevent cavitation of the cylinders. With green you have to add them and monitor them a lot more than an EC1.



2000 F-350 Lariat Super Duty, Dually, CCLB, 7.3L
4R100, 2wd
330,000 + miles
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post #8 of 39 Old 09-11-2011, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
Green will have plenty of silicate (sand) in it and not the proper SCAs in them. Coolant additives that prevent cavitation of the cylinders. With green you have to add them and monitor them a lot more than an EC1.
lol, I agree.


2000 DRW CC 7.3
Exterior: 08 Exterior Clone, 22.5's
Engine Mods: GTP38R WW2, 5 inch exhaust,T500, 6637, TW tunes,DI Up pipes, 6.7 fuel pump fuel system.
Trans Mods: 6.0 trans cooler, JW Valve body,Billet triple disc converter.
Sound Mods: 7" flip out tv, 3-way speakers all around, 12" sub, 500 watt amp.
Misc:dieselsite coolant filter, max ac assist, BRV, IHD,gauges, CCV

Next up power rear window
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post #9 of 39 Old 09-11-2011, 09:47 AM
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Sounds like everything is good to go on your list, now that the ELC thing is straightened out. Rotella T6 is a perfect winter oil for your climate, should have no problems at those temps if your glow plug system and batteries are good. I am not sure how low the 50/50 mix can protect, I suspect it's a bit lower than -20f, but I'm not sure, and there are probably some cold weather guys that can help better with that.

As for fuel additives, you shouldn't have to run anything, but I know a lot of guys run the white bottle of Diesel Kleen in colder climates as it contains an anti-gel agent for fuels. It has other benefits as well, like keeping injectors and the fuel system cleaner and more lubricated, I run the grey bottle (white bottle without anti-gel) from time-to-time to help my injectors purr along.

You'll love your 7.3, I don't do a lot of towing these days but I still drive it almost every day 70 miles per day becuase the mileage is good enough for me and I love the way the diesel moves down the road.
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post #10 of 39 Old 09-11-2011, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome Info guys! Yea i was gonna with the 6.4 but the dependablity of the 7.3 is a big time decision maker lol. I go in tomorrow to look over the truck, get a carfax and oasis report, and decide if i want it. So hopefully by Monday afternoon i will be an official memeber of the Powerstroke world! for Life!!
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