7.3 almost dead, runs rough, no power - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 09-05-2011, 06:48 AM
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7.3 almost dead, runs rough, no power

Had to get it towed home last night. Me and my gf went a few miles down the road to get a movie, running fine , pulled in the parking lot and it had a very small lope to it. Shut it off, went it for 5 mins come back, checked oil just in case, started it and lope got worse immediately and when I starting out of the lot truck started shaking and loping hard like it was running on 6 cylinders. I stopped and checked to make sure my chip was in good and no change. Decided to try and limp home. Truck would barely go 15 mph and would no pull up a very small hill, pulled over, and had it towed home. I think Im gonna try to borrow the scan tool from advance and see if it will tell me anything since advance auto is the only place open today

So what do yall think? Is this a CPS problem? Im thinking its an injector(s) issue, like one went out and I lost oil pressure to the others?

I dont think its bad fuel because I have 300 miles on this same tank and its been running like a champ. And oil was change 1000 miles ago(rotella), fuel filter around 6000 miles ago.

Thanks in advance
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:55 AM
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Just throwing this out there. Could it be the FICM? Our truck clanged banged jerked and reatteled and finnaly quit till we replaced that.
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Old 09-05-2011, 07:07 AM
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Mines a 7.3, not a 6.0.
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Old 09-05-2011, 07:21 AM
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Sounds like a UVCH to me. If you have the time pull the valve covers and check it out, I'm willing to bet one side is loose.
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Old 09-05-2011, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F350-6 View Post
One of the known issues with our trucks is a loose UVCH (Under Valve Cover Harness) connector. If this connector comes unplugged a little, it looks like this.



Since that plug connects the wires going to the fuel injectors, when the plug becomes loose, the injectors on that side stop working and your nice powerful V-8 Powerstroke becomes a 4 cylinder.

International (who made our motor) realized this was an issue and developed a plastic shim that slides under the locking tab to keep the tab engaged and prevent the connector from becoming loose.

Turns out a US Quarter is the correct thickness and width to act as a shim for this connector. The top of the quarter has to be ground down so the valve cover fits back on, but add a quarter to each side like this







And you've just invested 50 cents to keep your truck running well. Hence the 50 cent mod.

Also, if you pull the valve covers, then you should also re-torque your rocker arm pedestal bolts, circled in red, to 20 ft-lbs

and your lower injector hold down bolts, circled in blue, to 120 in-lbs, note that's INCH - lbs. They tend to work a little loose over time and the engine sounds much better after you tighten things up (unless you've got a tuner).

Heres a GREAT post that shows how to do it and torque down the rockers, too.
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToMang07 View Post
Sounds like a UVCH to me. If you have the time pull the valve covers and check it out, I'm willing to bet one side is loose.
Thanks Mang. Im hoping it something like this and not more serious. How long does it take to get the valve covers off? And I was thinking I might do a buzz test if the scanner at advance can do it
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey's250 View Post
Thanks Mang. Im hoping it something like this and not more serious. How long does it take to get the valve covers off? And I was thinking I might do a buzz test if the scanner at advance can do it
A buzz test and scan is a great idea, BUT the scanners at advance are usually geneeric OBDII scanners... I don;t believe they do buzz tests and they won't read most of the codes on the PSD's.

Know anyone local with a good scanner like AE or otherwise?

I haven't removed mine yet, but It doesn't look that hard. Maybe 1-2 hours tops. just take your time and don;t loose anything, lol!
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToMang07 View Post
A buzz test and scan is a great idea, BUT the scanners at advance are usually geneeric OBDII scanners... I don;t believe they do buzz tests and they won't read most of the codes on the PSD's.

Know anyone local with a good scanner like AE or otherwise?

I haven't removed mine yet, but It doesn't look that hard. Maybe 1-2 hours tops. just take your time and don;t loose anything, lol!
Yeah just went to advance and your right, it just reads codes. And I dont know anybody with AE or a good scanner other than the dealership and they are not open today
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey's250 View Post
Yeah just went to advance and your right, it just reads codes. And I dont know anybody with AE or a good scanner other than the dealership and they are not open today

Well, if U got the time, go diggin! lol!

One more thing to check for when u get to the UVCH, check the center pin in the harness for any signs of being burnt. If it is burnt, you will probably need to replace the harness itself.
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ToMang07 View Post

Well, if U got the time, go diggin! lol!

One more thing to check for when u get to the UVCH, check the center pin in the harness for any signs of being burnt. If it is burnt, you will probably need to replace the harness itself.
Im stuck between a rock and a hard place right now because its raining and suppose to all day and I dont have a roof to work under, dont have a scanner. Plus I got to go out of town back to school first thing in the morning. I might just have it towed to the dealership and atleast get them to scan it and tell me whats up with it before I leave town. This sucks
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