Trying to understand coolant requirements for diesel engines

[ttyR2]

So what is so special about diesel engines vs. gas engines as far as coolant goes? Does the water pump move enough water to fill the Hoover dam or something? Is there a reason I don't want to use the ELC that Toyota sells and that I use in my 4runner? Good to something like 150,000 miles between changes. The engine is iron and aluminum. What is in a 7.3L diesel that would make it need something different?

Just looking to learn what's unique about diesels.

Found this. Is what they are saying relevant to our engines? http://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/...antifreeze.htm

[turbosuzuki]

I did a search and there is alot of info on this subject. Im getting ready to change my coolant in my truck with something better. Btw i own a couple 4-runners

[rufushusky]

Originally Posted by ttyR2

So what is so special about diesel engines vs. gas engines as far as coolant goes? Does the water pump move enough water to fill the Hoover dam or something? Is there a reason I don't want to use the ELC that Toyota sells and that I use in my 4runner? Good to something like 150,000 miles between changes. The engine is iron and aluminum. What is in a 7.3L diesel that would make it need something different?

Just looking to learn what's unique about diesels.

Found this. Is what they are saying relevant to our engines? Protect Your Engine with the Right Antifreeze

It would really depend on what it is the coolant you use in your 4runner. If it is a propylene glycol base, I would not use it.

Cylinder pitting and cavitation are the biggest problems with respect to coolant facing the 7.3. You can run MC green (for 15-30k), MC gold (or Zerex G-05) for 5 years and 50-150k or ELCs for 3-8 years and 300k-1000k.

I am running Valvoline Zerex G-05 with no problems.

[NoRalPh]

What's different about a diesel has to do with the 'knock' produced when the cylinder fires

This powerful force can produce tiny bubbles on the Outside of the steel cylinder sleeve (the coolant side not the piston side) and is the source of the cavitation you read about

Over time, these cavitation bubbles will damage the steel sleeve (just like the pitting you see on a boats prop) and can actually pierce the the cylinder wall

Coolant is NOT the place to ''cheap-out'' on a diesel

[rufushusky]

Originally Posted by NoRalPh

What's different about a diesel has to do with the 'knock' produced when the cylinder fires

This powerful force can produce tiny bubbles on the Outside of the steel cylinder sleeve (the coolant side not the piston side) and is the source of the cavitation you read about

Over time, these cavitation bubbles will damage the steel sleeve (just like the pitting you see on a boats prop) and can actually pierce the the cylinder wall

Coolant is NOT the place to ''cheap-out'' on a diesel

Important thing to remember the 7.3 PSD and T444e isn't a sleeved engine and thus those tiny bubbles directly attack the cylinder wall! Bad news!

[NCHornet]

For the best coolant use a true ELC that meets the strict EC-1 rating. Just don't grab a jug because it says ELC on it. You need to look to make sure it meets the strict EC-1 rating. You also don't buy coolant because of the color, the color means nothing, again, read and make the right choice. Fleetrite's ELC , which is the same as Rotella's is good for 300K and out to 600K if the extender is used at 300K. All of this without checking the SCA level.
Of course I would never live any fluid in my truck for that long, but it is good to know I can. Make sure you only buy the concentrate and not the 50/50 mix. You will also need 24 gallons of distilled water, see the manager of your local grocery store, mine gave it to me for .50 per gal. Do a proper flush n fill, this is very critical, this is also a good time to add a coolant filter and to switch the upper rad hose to one from a dual alt set up that goes around the fan belt instead of through it. I have posted the " how to" on proper flush n fill multiple times. If you can't find it PM me.