What to look for in a F250 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 08-12-2011, 06:22 AM
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What to look for in a F250

I'm think about no i'm looking really hard at a 2001 F250XLT 4x4 7.3l diesel in auto. The truck has 84K. What should I look for? it is really clean inside and out. It drives real nice plenty of power. After reading on the site for a while the transmissions seem to be weak point to the Ford line up should I stay away from the truck. I will be towing a 8K pound trailer with it.
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:00 PM
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everyone always says that trans are the weakest links. but thats normally the guys who have their trucks so dang moded out the trans can't take it. my old truck (cummins ) and buddy had the same i had 200k on factory trans all stock except minor things and his totally moded and he was going through trans every 50 to 60 k. so i dunno , my buddy has an excursion and factory trans laster around i believe around 265k or 285k ...

but YES i would buy the truck. only thing is that is very low miles for the age so def. do a carfax to make sure no odometer issues (seen this alot ) and ask for any and all maintenence records if they have. and make sure the price is right. i too purchased my truck from texas which is a 99 reg cab xl model with 138k for 4k. same truck here in tn with 250k was going for $6500 so was well worth the drive for me.

overall these are WORKHORSES, on my second 7.3 now and no complaints at all except wish they were still putting this motor in new models b/c i would have purchased a brand new one. actually looking for wifey a 7.3 excursion now..
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:45 PM
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Check these video's out. I used them when evaluating the 2000 F-350 dually I bought:




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Old 08-12-2011, 07:54 PM
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look

Watch for rust under truck and on the oil pan. I love my 02 but i have some rust on oil pan from here in Reno Nevada. Just something to check.
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Old 08-14-2011, 03:30 AM
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Bring a jack and jack up the front tires during inspection to check the wheel bearings. They are poor quality and are sealed units which means you can't repack them, just replace them, and they are about $300-$400 each to fix (parts only price). Easy fix, just expensive. Good bargaining tool if they're bad. Also, these rigs have weak ball joints as well. Again, not difficult or too expensive, but a good bargaining tool and there's a good chance they're worn.

You mentioned transmissions. If you want an auto then that's what you're stuck with. Most diesel trucks of this vintage have auto transmission problems. What sucks is once they let go, it's about $2,500-$4,500 to get one rebuilt well. You should really, really, reeeeeaaaally consider a six speed for your 8k towing. Sturdy, and if the clutch let's go, you're out a grand to have a top of the line clutch installed in a day. And they rarely let go like an auto, the clutch slips and gives you fair warning usually.

Make sure all the stickers on the engine aren't lifted or wrinkled indicating any overheat signs.

Check the engine number to see which connecting rods it has. I'd buy either, but it's nice to know.

I have an 01 as well. Great truck. I've been happy with it from day one. I did have to replace one of the injection harness UVC (under valve cover) gaskets. $75 each and 3 hour time investment. If all the usual stuff checks out, I'd buy it. Keep in mind this truck (01) has the weaker dana 50 front end. Not a show stopper, but just so you know.

The best year ford EVER made was 2000. Forged connecting rods and the stronger dana 60 front end. That's when ford trucks peaked.
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Old 08-14-2011, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Starbucks View Post
The best year ford EVER made was 2000. Forged connecting rods and the stronger dana 60 front end. That's when ford trucks peaked.
A 2000 F-250 will not have a Dana 60 front end...
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