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Old 06-13-2011, 06:39 PM
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buying a 2000 f-250

Alright so the title says it I'm about to buy a 2000 f250 with37k miles on it its never had a tuner or straight pipe.... stock to the bone single owner mainly I want to know what are the things to look out for and what upgrades do I need to do tuner and 4in Turbo back are currently on my list
Thanks jbb sorry for the bad grammar
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:29 PM
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Congrats!! That's one heck of a truck. Many will say that the 2000 is one of the perfect years, forged rods and good HPOP. With only 37k, I would suspect that not much is wrong with it, so I would get it and change all the fluids out. Brake, diff oil, power steering fluid, trans fluid, coolant flush and swap to a good ELC, transfer case fluid, fuel filter, I would toss a serpentine belt on it too with it being that old and probably never replaced. Check the caliper pins for grease, get some gauges (egt minimum), do a DIY air filter... hmmm, I recommend going to a good 5-40 synthetic (rotella is great and cheap), use motorcraft oil filters. 4" exhaust is a great choice. Towing alot? 6.0 trans cooler. And... a chip.
That's my .02, enjoy the truck.

Thanks -
Scott
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:31 PM
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Water pump commonly starts leaking and the ball joints go out quickly.
Watch out for those, may want to install a coolant filter to save the water pump.

Scott
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:31 PM
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I have a 2002 250 ccsb 4x4 with 373,500 miles. I run BFG 285's. Have replaced the following: front wheel uni bearings roughly every 130,000 miles, ball joints once at 305,000 miles, fuel pump twice 125,000 & 290,000 miles, power steering pump 290,000 miles, ac compressor 240,000, new brakes every 100,000, new BFG's every 50,000, transmission fluid & filter every 30,000, Rotella 15w40 every 5,000-7,000 depending on use, air as required. My only mods are Bully Dog shift kit and the Napa 6637 air filter. When it's clean it still looks like new other than the driver seat has just started to tear where the Lariet logo is stitched in. These are great trucks and easy to work on. I have done all the work listed above accept the ac work. The toughest was the ball joints, no I forgot that I put a set of leveling springs in the front and helper springs in the rear, that was the toughest project so far. Oh, and three cam shaft sensors. These are now only $15.00 each and only takes 5 minutes to replace. Yes, I love my truck, shooting for 1,000,000 miles. I agree with Scott, change all the fluids, although I have not changed the transfer case or differentials as I was under the impression that they came with synthetic and never needed changing, never don't sound right, I will have to double check this. I flush my coolant and brake fluid every 100,000. Keep a spare cam shaft sensor in the glove box. Good luck!
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:39 PM
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Hey how do you know your front wheel bearings are going out before there is noticeable play? What kind of ball joints did you go with? Almost 400k is awesome! No trans issue?

Scott
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Old 06-15-2011, 03:27 AM
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When my wheel bearing have gone out in every case I heard a grinding noise. It would do it for 10-15 seconds then stop. It would do this every 10-20 miles. This allowed me to get it home to replace. Each time each side went out within 10,000 miles of each other. I am expecting one to go anytime now. Ball joints, I can't remember which brand but they are the greasable type, got them at Advance Auto. When I was getting tires my tire guy showed me the play in the joints and wanted like $600 to replace them. I spent maybe $200 for the ball joints, seals, and dust covers. As for the transmission, no issues, it has had a minor/different shift from 2nd to 3rd from the day I drove it off the lot. I decided to not fix it and see if it got worse as I got close to the 100K mile warranty. It never got worse so I decided to leave it alone. When I put the shift kit in (200K miles) that 2nd to 3rd shift got will sometimes be really hard. Aside from that really hard shift all shifts are firm yet smooth at the same time. I think this hard shift is that solinoid valve sticking. It been doing this for the last 173,000 miles. Its never overheated and have towed a 36' travel trailer with a 10' trailer carring an electric golf attached to the rear of the travel trailer several times over 300 miles and the tranny has never overheated. I will say on these trips I felt I had plenty of power but, if I ran over 70 mph the engine temp get up in the red, so I had to back off and run 65mph.
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Old 06-16-2011, 06:27 PM
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Sweet, thanks for the input. Hopefully this helps the original poster too. These trucks really do last forever.

I just worry about my wheel bearings, I'm at 140k stock.

Scott P
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:20 PM
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Don't worry they will go out. My father and brother both have these trucks, 2000 w/390k & 2001 w/435k models. None of us have gotten more the 150k out of our bearings. You are looking at $270 per side. I just checked Autozone. I paid $480 at Ford each for the fist set and dice have purchased from Advanced or Autozone, they all have lasted the same. I do make sure I get the ones with Timken bearings. It's not hard to do. Remove tire, hub, caliper, rotor. There are 4 nuts on the back side that hold the unihub/bearing assembly on. Remove the four nuts and it slides off. You will have to remove the bolts from the old assembly and install on the new one or go to Ford and by new bolts. I have always used my old ones. Just double nut the bolt and they will back right out. I always clean up the hole and wipe a little bearing grease in there. Install is the reverse. Give yourself an hour per side the first time. I can do both now in about 45 minutes.
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