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Old 03-23-2011, 04:57 PM
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Another Low Power Thread

Hi new member here. I have been reading the forum a lot trying to figure things out on my own and am needing some help. I recently purchase my first diesel 2000 F350 CCSB and I am having a power issue…oh no another thread on low power. I am hoping to get a few answers to some questions so I don’t goof things up. This is a “money is more important than time” scenario. I have a very demanding full time job, a wife and two small children so things may not progress very quickly so I will apologize in advance. Basically I am planning on cleaning and replacing cheap parts before jumping into the more expensive parts.

I have been reading and reading on the forums and have seen all kinds of questions relating back to lack of power. Usual culprits seem to be loss of boost due to up pipe issues or leaky boots and fuel issues. I see lots of people running a buzz test and a contribution test then going out and buying injectors and sensors etc. Sometimes these fix the issue more often than not it doesn’t. IMHO.

So here is the problem and the symptoms. I had a lack of power when towing so I started easy and cleaned my air filter and fuel filter. After cleaning my air filter and cleaning out a bunch of dirt in the fuel bowl the problem seems to have migrated to normal driving a little bit.

Symptoms when normal driving – When traveling along at say 1500rmp and I floor it, I feel the turbo spool up and it runs up to 31-3200 and shifts. At this point, it shifts and it seems to hold rpms for a second and continue to accelerate. Then it drops a couple hundred rpms and feels like it has lost some boost and power and is not as fast a climb to 3200 rpms again.

Symptoms while towing (6,000#) – It with the same symptoms above. Climbing pretty steep hills it where it has issues. It lugs way down and kinda makes a chugging noise (which I now think is the waste gate letting off pressure) when it is really working hard on a steep grade.

It has never smoked at all, ever in the 2 months I have had it, it starts and idles fine, I get about 12 mpg around town. 14 Highway. Fresh oil and filter change. Did the blowby test with the filler cap and it seemed fine.

I don’t have a scanner and am considering purchasing AE but I want to check a few things out before I drop $400. So far though all of my “deciphering” leads me to the same possible culprits – Boost, fuel, CPS or maybe even the tranny (I hope not).

So here is my plan, remember this is the money is more important than time in this scenario. I am going to check for the obvious items and eliminate them as an issue; Air, fuel, boost.

AIR - I have eliminated the air filter as an issue by cleaning it. I still need to look at the turbo wheel for wear and play…I know, should have done this before buying it, live and learn.

BOOST - I have looked over the up pipes and they seem to be fine. No soot that I can see. The boots for the intercooler system are looking worn so I will be replacing them but I do not see signs of leaking so I have moved on to the fuel supply, for now.

FUEL - Next I am on to the fuel system. I have cleaned the fuel bowl which had dirt caked in the bottom. This did not surprise me since the guy I bought it from told me the tank was filthy and he took it out and cleaned it. At this point I am going to assume he did what he said he did and I am going to work from the front of the fuel system to the back. I know this is backwards as I should start at the source and move downstream so I don’t just push the problem forward.
First up - Check valves at the fuel rails. I understand these little guys have a screen that gets plugged and needs to be cleaned out. That is my next step. I noticed something flake like in the fuel bowl inside the little bowl where the little plunger thingy (technical term) sets before fuel leaves the fuel bowl and goes to the fuel rail so I am thinking these things may be plugged. Yes, I cleaned out the little flakey things. Is there some special bleeding that needs to be done after removing these little guys?
Second – Clean the fuel bowl but that is done. I still need to put the new filter in but I didn’t want to ruin a new filter with the loose debris. Besides, it looked like the filter in it was brand new.
Third – Fuel pump. It took what seemed like a long time for the pump to fill the fuel bowl after cleaning it out. May be an issue with the pump or the screen in the tank. But as I said, I am moving backwards and will get to the tank if I need to. This will require a fuel pressure gauge unless someone has a better way to test it. I am wondering if there is a difference between pressure and flow? I can see the pump starving but being able to come up to pressure but not make adequate supply under a load. How would I test for this?
Fourth – Remove the tank and check the screen for debris. I will to the hutch mod and the harpoon mod if I get this far. Do I need to buy an in-line filter before the fuel pump if I do the hutch mod?

Well, that is it for fuel system. I will move on to the boost if this doesn’t fix it. That will be another post though. I plan to post some pictures along the way.

I will probably go buy another CPS and throw it in just for good measure. Need to find one of the really dark blue/black ones, right?

Thank you in advance for any help you may offer.

(Oh, and in full disclosure, I posted this on PSN too. )

Last edited by stlhdfishr; 03-23-2011 at 07:51 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-24-2011, 07:21 AM
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your on the right track.

i would check boost pressure and i have to wonder about that tranny. without hearing/feeling it i cant say. but that shift sounds odd.

after that, IMHO i would get AE or find somoene with it.
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:56 AM
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If I take the fuel line check valve off that is between the fuel bowl and the start of the fuel rail, is there any air bleeding that needs to be done?

The guy at NAPA has me scared to death that I am going to "air lock" injectors.
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:44 AM
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i dont think so. it will be easier to start yes. i just dead headed my obs, but i had return line arleady there that i used to bleed then capped off.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:08 AM
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7.3 injectors are fairly tolerant of air, it will run rough till all the air bleeds out.
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:01 AM
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Last night I didn't have time to get to the check valves so I pulled off the air intake and checked out the turbo wheel. It was perfect. No dusting, no play, no marks on the housing. So I can at least rule that out.

Now if I would just quit worrying about getting a little dirt under my fingernails, I might be able to get after those pesky check valves.
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