Who do I call or Email for motor rebuild parts and info?

[tdeal823]

I am getting ready to pull the motor and replace the oil pan.
Since I am not planning on getting rid of the truck I want to make it stronger for future mods. I have heard of different orings for all the seals.
Where do you find all of these orings and special permetex for the oil pan? Is there better stuff to use? I figure while it is out I might as well go through it all.
Any other ideas on what would be good to look at or replace while it is out? It's a PMR motor. I found factory rods for $500 and head studs for $650. Is this a good investment?
Thanks
Tony

[pablito]

I bought a motorcraft kit that included everything that you need. All gasgets, orings, oil cooler, seals, pistons, bearings,oil filter, grey silicone for the oil pan and other areas that have no gaskets. I will try to find that site for you tomorrow so you can check the price, it was less than 1100 to my front door

[tdeal823]

Thats what I am looking for. I figure if its out I might as well freshen things up a bit.

Did you pull the motor out yourself? I am thinking of doing it myself. Don't know how big of a job it is.
I have a 2 ton chain hoist in my garage and plenty of room. But my engine stand would never hold the big 7.3L to work on it.

[tdeal823]

Things that are going through my mind on what to change or replace.

low pressure oil pump
Rear main seal
up-pipe gaskets and bolts
new exhaust bolts & manifold gaskets,manifold bolts,
Valve Springs
Pushrods (maybe)
Glow Plugs (Already done last winter)
Pan obviously
New dipstick seal
headstuds (maybe)



Things I have copied or read about the removal


It can probably be done with shade-tree procedures, but I'd rent or buy the special lifting brackets the Ford techs use.

Here's the shorthand version of the procedures from the manual. All the details have been edited out to make it not so long, but the 63 steps are included. I'd use this list as a checklist, but I'd want a Ford workshop manual with all the details and illustrations handy if I were to even think about doing it.

SECTION 303-01C: Engine — 7.3L Diesel
REMOVAL
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Engine

Special Tool(s)
Diesel Engine Lifting Bracket (D83T-6000-B) 303-D043
Fuel Line Tool (T90T-9550-S) 310-5039
Fuel/Oil/Turbo Protector Cap Set (T94T-9395-AH) 303-493
Heavy Duty Floor Crane 014-00071
Lifting Eye (D94T-6000-C) 303-D099
Fan Pulley Holding Wrench 303-478 (T94T-6312-AH)
Fan Clutch Nut Wrench 303-214 (T83T-6312-B)

Removal
All vehicles
Disconnect both battery ground cables.
Loosen the clamps and remove the air cleaner outlet tube.
Remove the air intake tube and adapter.
Lift the tube and adapter, disconnect the wastegate pressure hose, and remove the tube and adapter from the vehicle.
Remove the degas bottle.
Recover the refrigerant.

Remove the radiator grille, and the radiator grille opening panel.
Remove the three right side air deflector pushpins.
Remove the air charge cooler retainers.
Remove the radiator brackets and position the battery cable aside.
Remove the eight bolts and the radiator upper support.
Remove the radiator sight shield.

Disconnect the A/C condenser core inlet and outlet tubes.
Remove the A/C condenser.

Remove the inlet and outlet ducts from the charge air cooler.
Remove the charge air cooler.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator.
Remove the bolts and position the fan shroud on the fan.
Disconnect the degas supply and lower radiator hoses from the radiator.
Remove the radiator.
Remove the fan shroud.

Using the special tools, remove the fan and the fan clutch from the water pump pulley.
Rotate the belt tensioner counterclockwise and remove the drive belt.
Disconnect the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor hose from the turbocharger compressor manifold.

Remove the engine ground cable from the right side of the engine block.

Disconnect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
Disconnect the A/C manifold from the A/C compressor.
Disconnect the power steering hoses.
Disconnect the generator electrical connectors.
Remove the generator mounting bracket.
Remove the bolt from the left front of the engine block.
Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring electrical connector.
Disconnect the lower generator electrical connectors.
Disconnect the cable and the fusible link.
Disconnect the ground strap.

Disconnect the heater return hose.
Disconnect the heater supply hose.
Remove the turbocharger.
Using the fuel line tool, disconnect the fuel lines.
Remove the fuel line retaining bolt.
Remove the idler pulley.
Remove the nuts and position the glow plug and intake air heater relays aside.
Remove the bolts and the water outlet tube.

Install two engine lift adapters.
Install the special tool on the right side cylinder head.

Raise the vehicle.
Disconnect the starter motor electrical connectors.
Remove the three bolts and the starter.
Remove the torque converter housing cover.
Remove the torque converter-to-flexplate nuts.
Remove the oil filter.
Disconnect the block heater electrical connector.
Remove the engine mount nuts.
Remove the transmission-to-engine bolts.

Lower the vehicle.
Use a wood block and a suitable jack to support the transmission.
Remove the transmission oil level indicator tube.

Install the Heavy Duty Floor Crane and the Diesel Engine Lifting Bracket on the engine.

Raise the engine high enough to clear the No. 1 crossmember and pull the engine forward out of the vehicle.

(Note that everything in front of the engine has been removed, so the lift doesn't have to raise the engine very much. But the 7.3L is about twice as heavy as a gasser, so a lightweight engine hoist won't do.)

Remove the engine lifting equipment from the engine.

Another Guy said
I did mine myself. I bought a short block. If I had to do it again I'd buy a complete engine. The job would have been much easier and faster. It is huge job not to be taken lightly. You have to remove the front end of the truck to get the engine out and it is BIG and HEAVY. Make sure you have a very heavy duty hoist. I had two differant stands, neither where heavy enough. We ended up leaving the new one in the crate and setting the old on jack stands on the floor to swap everything over. Swapping everything over was by the far the most time consuming task. I had about 24 hours in it myself and my buddy helping had about 14.





The more I dig into this the more I think I need to find a good diesel mechanic to work on my truck. This task is looking like a longer project than what I have time for.

[pablito]

this kit
Your Premiere Source for Ford Truck Parts and Accessories
This was the cheapest and best kit all in one, all original motorcraft kit from a dealer. It comes only with standard bearings but the pistons can be up to .030 over. 7.3 engines can only be bored .030 over. I got rid of the powder metal rods and got the factory forged rods, I had it balanced since I changed the rotating mass, and it was out quite a bit. I also rebuilt my turbo and put a wicked wheel in while I was doing that, I sent it to a shop so the could balance that as well. I did install head studs since I had gone that far I figured why not another 300.

Here is a good article to read that should help you

Complete 7.3L Power Stroke Long-Block Build - Diesel Power Magazine

If you need any more info just message me anytime.

[tdeal823]

Thanks for the links I am going to bookmark these pages.
Thanks
Tony