Originally Posted by Derdawa
Any recommendations on "A" pillar I am thinking of getting it from glow shift. Black 7 Color Gauge Series
You get the "A" pilar along with the 3 gauges you talked about. On the pyro gauge which is the (EGT) I want the "1500" not the "2500" right. Than a transmission gauge and water temp gauge not oil temp gauge? Like I said I am new to this and don't want to "F-up" My new toy?
I was recommended today to get a chip, cold air intake and new exhaust to get the maximum performance and gas saving mileage any recommendations on these?
I'm not familar with glow shift? I will recommend Autometer's "Ultralite II" gauges. I had the Ultralite gauges on my old Dodge and they were hard to see at night. These Ultralite II (two) gauges have lights inside them and change from a white face to a lighted face when you turn on your head lights. MUCH better when driving at night.
Yes, 1500* pyro (egt) is best, More accurate scale and if you get anywhere near 2500 you'll have molten pistons. 2500* is for racing/sled pulling and rebuildible engines. If you go with the autometer gauges, again I recommend from experience, that you go with the full swep gauges. I didn't on the trans temp and wished I had. They have more increments for a finer reading.
Yes, you need an engine coolant temp gauge. There's a nice place to put the sender and it's right on the side of the thermostat housing. Ford has a plug there and it's the same size as the sender. As I said, the two temp gauges on the dash are junk. I wished I could replace one of those oem gauges with a boost gauge like the 6.0s came out with. By the way IMHO the boost gauge is only usefull in giving you something to look at while you're driving. 99% of the time it has no sugnificance.
I agree that chips, exhaust, intakes are great for performance and I too have them. But those upgrades will drive up your temps so gauges MOST be first!! On a note for the pyro probe, drill and tap the driver's side exhasut manifold at the bottom rear. When you drill and tap keep some wheel bearing grease on the drill and tap. And do it slow, this will keep any metal out of your exhaust flow and away from the turbo.
I don't know where you're from but I'd recommend some transmission service. I understand that there are two great transmission Gurus. Since I'm closer to John Wood I went with him. He builds a GREAT transmission, I hear that BTS does also. You don't need a new transmission but a valve body upgrade does wonders for life expectance of your trans. So does the torque converter they sell but normally that goes with a rebuild.
Another item I installed that is out of the norm is a cooling system filter. It filters out the junk in your cooling system (flaked off rubber hose material, sand being washed out of the engine block[never ends]) and will keep your water pump running much longer. Sand eats up water pumps.
Changing the fuel filter regularly will keep you engine happier. There's junk in the fuel and diesels DON'T like water in the fuel.
I treat my F350 like it's a KING, it's always in the garage (when not towing) and gets the best of everything. Amsoil engine/transmission oil and filters, waterless coolant. I ask it to do extreme things and don't scrimp on vital requirements. It only has 105,000 on the odometer now and at that rate it'll out live me. I know my son is hoping so
Feel free to ask any questions and or private message me.
P.S. after reviewing my signature, I'd like to ad that another BEST is to lay your hands on a 6.0 trans cooler and install it. The 7.3 (4R100) auto has a 9 pass cooler and the 6.0 has a 31 pass cooler. Do the math 3 times the cooling. Also, stay away from the FASS fuel filter system, it's a POS (piece of S**T ).