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Old 01-28-2011, 11:27 AM
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First diesel need 101 help

I just bought my first diesel and it is F250 Super Duty. I need to get the F250 and need a 101 guide to care for my truck. I figured this was the best place to ask. I am very, very green mechanic so thanks for the help. The only stupid question is the one not asked...
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Old 01-28-2011, 11:35 AM
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Everyone has there own techniques, just depends on how anal you are. First thing to get is a haynes/chiltons repair manual. under $30 at autozone. Next thing I would change all the fluids and filters, no telling how anal the last owner was. Since you already got the truck there are some things you should check for before buying but check now that you have it. Pull the intake tube off the turbo and inspect the compressor wheel for "dusting" its a common problem with the 7.3. Long story short, dirt gets by the air filter and hits the compressor wheel wearing down the fins. If its really bad then the engine could have similar wear inside. im sure others will chime in with there take on things. Welcome to the powerstroke addiction
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:30 AM
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First thing is DON'T believe the temp gauges on the dash. They are no more than idiot lights. They'll go to normal too early and stay there until it's toooooooo late. Get gauges on your "A" pillar post. Most important is a Pyrometer. That's exhaust temp. Second and third are engine coolant temp and trans temp gauges.
Next, be patient, a diesel is NOT a gasser. When you get to your distination, use the Pyro gauge to cool down the turbo exhaust temp before shutting down the engine. Oil lubs the bushings in the turbo (spins at 100s of thousands of rpms). Exhaust temps can be over 1,000*, shutting off engine too soon will leave HOT oil in the turbo. Oil turns to coke (tar) at temps over 400*. Try spinning a turbo at several hundred thousand rpms in gear oil or wheel bearing grease. I have a shut down timer that monitors the exhaust temp (Not time) and will keep the engine running until the exhaust temp is down to 350*
Watch the pyro, especially when towing and don't let it get over 1300*. Engine damage can occur if you run there very long. You can control the temp by slowing down (less foot pressure on the skinny peddle) or down shifting to lower gear. Diesels don't like to be lugged (low rpms and high power requirements). If you have a 7.3 litre (the best!!)
As you can see the pyro gauge is your best friend. It's more important to drive watching it than the speedo. You're right about this being the best place to learn about diesel Fords. Good luck
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:25 PM
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Any recommendations on "A" pillar I am thinking of getting it from glow shift. Black 7 Color Gauge Series
You get the "A" pilar along with the 3 gauges you talked about. On the pyro gauge which is the (EGT) I want the "1500" not the "2500" right. Than a transmission gauge and water temp gauge not oil temp gauge? Like I said I am new to this and don't want to "F-up" My new toy?

I was recommended today to get a chip, cold air intake and new exhaust to get the maximum performance and gas saving mileage any recommendations on these?
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derdawa View Post
Any recommendations on "A" pillar I am thinking of getting it from glow shift. Black 7 Color Gauge Series
You get the "A" pilar along with the 3 gauges you talked about. On the pyro gauge which is the (EGT) I want the "1500" not the "2500" right. Than a transmission gauge and water temp gauge not oil temp gauge? Like I said I am new to this and don't want to "F-up" My new toy?

I was recommended today to get a chip, cold air intake and new exhaust to get the maximum performance and gas saving mileage any recommendations on these?
custom tunes... (php, tw, dp, etc)
diy intake
and straight pipe..
way worth it and all reasonable.
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:43 PM
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The weird thing with checking my compressor blades was my intercooler boots are soaked with grime, but the compressor blades were clean and looked new.
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Zytek_Fan View Post
The weird thing with checking my compressor blades was my intercooler boots are soaked with grime, but the compressor blades were clean and looked new.
Thats from the stupid crank case vent that ford had to "fix": because of just running a pipe down the back of the block, ford thought it would be "cleaner" to vent it into your intake. It keeps the smell away, but the oil residue and gases got through the intercooler and soak throught the boots... the ccv mod (aka making it the way international intended) will stop further residual build-up, however it may be benificial to you to disassemble the intercooler pipes and y pipe and clean all of the boots of that nasty oily crap... I had a huge boost leak above 1800 rpms... come to find out it was one of the orange y pipe boots had slipped out from under the hose clamp... the ccv mod will prevent this from happening again, and cleaning it up allowed the boots to hold.
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:40 AM
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Thats from the stupid crank case vent that ford had to "fix": because of just running a pipe down the back of the block, ford thought it would be "cleaner" to vent it into your intake. It keeps the smell away, but the oil residue and gases got through the intercooler and soak throught the boots... the ccv mod (aka making it the way international intended) will stop further residual build-up, however it may be benificial to you to disassemble the intercooler pipes and y pipe and clean all of the boots of that nasty oily crap... I had a huge boost leak above 1800 rpms... come to find out it was one of the orange y pipe boots had slipped out from under the hose clamp... the ccv mod will prevent this from happening again, and cleaning it up allowed the boots to hold.
Yeah I already knew about the CCV problem, which I was alluding to. I do need to address it, but will later.

I was just surprised my compressor blades didn't have a slick of oil on them given what my intercooler boots looked like.

Luckily I haven't had a boot blow off, but I know if I upgrade the turbo I will be changing the boots.
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Zytek_Fan View Post
Yeah I already knew about the CCV problem, which I was alluding to. I do need to address it, but will later.

I was just surprised my compressor blades didn't have a slick of oil on them given what my intercooler boots looked like.

Luckily I haven't had a boot blow off, but I know if I upgrade the turbo I will be changing the boots.
Well the compressor/ impeller wheel spins at thousands or rpms.... kinda hard for the oil to hold on
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Derdawa View Post
Any recommendations on "A" pillar I am thinking of getting it from glow shift. Black 7 Color Gauge Series
You get the "A" pilar along with the 3 gauges you talked about. On the pyro gauge which is the (EGT) I want the "1500" not the "2500" right. Than a transmission gauge and water temp gauge not oil temp gauge? Like I said I am new to this and don't want to "F-up" My new toy?

I was recommended today to get a chip, cold air intake and new exhaust to get the maximum performance and gas saving mileage any recommendations on these?
I'm not familar with glow shift? I will recommend Autometer's "Ultralite II" gauges. I had the Ultralite gauges on my old Dodge and they were hard to see at night. These Ultralite II (two) gauges have lights inside them and change from a white face to a lighted face when you turn on your head lights. MUCH better when driving at night.
Yes, 1500* pyro (egt) is best, More accurate scale and if you get anywhere near 2500 you'll have molten pistons. 2500* is for racing/sled pulling and rebuildible engines. If you go with the autometer gauges, again I recommend from experience, that you go with the full swep gauges. I didn't on the trans temp and wished I had. They have more increments for a finer reading.
Yes, you need an engine coolant temp gauge. There's a nice place to put the sender and it's right on the side of the thermostat housing. Ford has a plug there and it's the same size as the sender. As I said, the two temp gauges on the dash are junk. I wished I could replace one of those oem gauges with a boost gauge like the 6.0s came out with. By the way IMHO the boost gauge is only usefull in giving you something to look at while you're driving. 99% of the time it has no sugnificance.
I agree that chips, exhaust, intakes are great for performance and I too have them. But those upgrades will drive up your temps so gauges MOST be first!! On a note for the pyro probe, drill and tap the driver's side exhasut manifold at the bottom rear. When you drill and tap keep some wheel bearing grease on the drill and tap. And do it slow, this will keep any metal out of your exhaust flow and away from the turbo.
I don't know where you're from but I'd recommend some transmission service. I understand that there are two great transmission Gurus. Since I'm closer to John Wood I went with him. He builds a GREAT transmission, I hear that BTS does also. You don't need a new transmission but a valve body upgrade does wonders for life expectance of your trans. So does the torque converter they sell but normally that goes with a rebuild.
Another item I installed that is out of the norm is a cooling system filter. It filters out the junk in your cooling system (flaked off rubber hose material, sand being washed out of the engine block[never ends]) and will keep your water pump running much longer. Sand eats up water pumps.
Changing the fuel filter regularly will keep you engine happier. There's junk in the fuel and diesels DON'T like water in the fuel.
I treat my F350 like it's a KING, it's always in the garage (when not towing) and gets the best of everything. Amsoil engine/transmission oil and filters, waterless coolant. I ask it to do extreme things and don't scrimp on vital requirements. It only has 105,000 on the odometer now and at that rate it'll out live me. I know my son is hoping so
Feel free to ask any questions and or private message me.
P.S. after reviewing my signature, I'd like to ad that another BEST is to lay your hands on a 6.0 trans cooler and install it. The 7.3 (4R100) auto has a 9 pass cooler and the 6.0 has a 31 pass cooler. Do the math 3 times the cooling. Also, stay away from the FASS fuel filter system, it's a POS (piece of S**T ).

Last edited by Bart_3500; 01-31-2011 at 06:11 AM. Reason: Add a P.S.
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