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post #1 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing oil pan

I need to replace my oil pan bad. I dont have the room or hoist to pull the motor. Ive heard a few people talk about drilling out the rivets in the cross member and doing it in the truck, then use grade 8 bolts to reinstall the cross member, has anyone done this? Is it safe? Any info is much appreciated as I fear I dont have much time before the oil pan rots all the way through and Im on the side of the road, thanks guys

2000 F-250 Reg. Cab Long Box, 4x4, Auto., 285/75/16 GY Dura Tracs,

1990 Mustang 5.0 LX hatchback, auto, Prowler orange. Car has full exhaust, E-cam, Trick Flow upper and lower intake, ADJ. fuel pressure reg, A/C delete, AOD with hardened shafts shift kit and TCI 3500 stall, not yet installed 3:73 gears, and TFS Twisted Wedge heads
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post #2 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Oh yea, also dont have the $2600 the local shop wants to do it

2000 F-250 Reg. Cab Long Box, 4x4, Auto., 285/75/16 GY Dura Tracs,

1990 Mustang 5.0 LX hatchback, auto, Prowler orange. Car has full exhaust, E-cam, Trick Flow upper and lower intake, ADJ. fuel pressure reg, A/C delete, AOD with hardened shafts shift kit and TCI 3500 stall, not yet installed 3:73 gears, and TFS Twisted Wedge heads
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post #3 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 12:55 PM
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Never heard of doing that, just pulling the motor. That salt must be h#$% up there.

"did our 99 F550 with out totally pulling the motor...drop the tranny, pull the turbo, pull ic tubes, unhook engine harness,fuel line pull all the sh!t off the front of the motor a/c,ps,alt,etc pull the rad and lift it out of mounts and pull motor to front of truck so fan is almost touching rad cradle and till the valve covers touch the wiper cowl... then the pan will come off...

If I ever have to do one again the tranny is staying in and the MOTOR IS COMMING OUT!!!! out all the way and being put on a stand... its a pita to do it in the truck.. I don't advise it and I will never do it this way again I learned from my mistake something that I figured would save time likely cost me more time and definitely more aggravations " quoted from Cj ford on this thread:7.3 Oil Pan Replacement?
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post #4 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=carolinaboy02powerstroke;2211977]Never heard of doing that, just pulling the motor. That salt must be h#$% up there.

Man you said it, they throw down more salt than you can imagine, its terrible.

Thanks for your reply

I really hope someone has done this and can chime in, this is about the only way Im going to be able to do it but if it isnt safe or its going to hurt the truck or cause problems down the road I'll have to figure something out.

Im not trying to be a hack I just dont have the space to do it anymore, and Im laid off till spring so money is REALLY tight so I cant pay to have it done

2000 F-250 Reg. Cab Long Box, 4x4, Auto., 285/75/16 GY Dura Tracs,

1990 Mustang 5.0 LX hatchback, auto, Prowler orange. Car has full exhaust, E-cam, Trick Flow upper and lower intake, ADJ. fuel pressure reg, A/C delete, AOD with hardened shafts shift kit and TCI 3500 stall, not yet installed 3:73 gears, and TFS Twisted Wedge heads
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post #5 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 01:17 PM
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I do know that the surfaces need to be super clean and the sealant needs to sit for 24hrs. I would recommend getting on craigslist and placing an ad for a cherry picker or see if there is a diesel mechanic that is willing to do it in his spare time for you at a reduced rate, even if you helped in trade for some labor.
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post #6 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by carolinaboy02powerstroke View Post
I do know that the surfaces need to be super clean and the sealant needs to sit for 24hrs. I would recommend getting on craigslist and placing an ad for a cherry picker or see if there is a diesel mechanic that is willing to do it in his spare time for you at a reduced rate, even if you helped in trade for some labor.

Thats not a bad idea. There might even be a mechanic who is layed off and needs some cash but not the $100 or so an hr the dealer does.

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post #7 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dieseldan2005 View Post
Thats not a bad idea. There might even be a mechanic who is layed off and needs some cash but not the $100 or so an hr the dealer does.

I guarantee there are multiple diesel mechanics out there without a job. He could even go to the local stealership's shops and ask their mechanics if they would be up for it, or if they know someone who would be.

If he has a diesel mechanic school near him, they may even volunteer a class to tackle the project for free, just as a learning experience for the class.
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post #8 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thats not a bad idea, I'll look around. Thanks guys

2000 F-250 Reg. Cab Long Box, 4x4, Auto., 285/75/16 GY Dura Tracs,

1990 Mustang 5.0 LX hatchback, auto, Prowler orange. Car has full exhaust, E-cam, Trick Flow upper and lower intake, ADJ. fuel pressure reg, A/C delete, AOD with hardened shafts shift kit and TCI 3500 stall, not yet installed 3:73 gears, and TFS Twisted Wedge heads
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post #9 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 01:44 PM
If it aint a CAT itsa DOG

 
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Where abouts in wisconsin are ya?

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post #10 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Im in Racine, About 20 minutes south of Milwaukee

2000 F-250 Reg. Cab Long Box, 4x4, Auto., 285/75/16 GY Dura Tracs,

1990 Mustang 5.0 LX hatchback, auto, Prowler orange. Car has full exhaust, E-cam, Trick Flow upper and lower intake, ADJ. fuel pressure reg, A/C delete, AOD with hardened shafts shift kit and TCI 3500 stall, not yet installed 3:73 gears, and TFS Twisted Wedge heads
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