Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Palmer Alaska
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Any play you can see will cut the crap out of your tires in no time flat so if you like your tires fix the ball joints and have it aliened . . . Sears just charged me a wrapping $65 to 4 wheel alien mine Monday after I put in new balls Sunday.
Don't buy ball joints from Ford, most stores have the Motorcraft for under $25 per . . . Napa here in Alaska was $19.99 upper and $22.99 lower. However they are junk and only go about 90K before your in there all over again so don't buy Motorcraft ball joints!!
Get Moog ball joints or Napa lifetime which is made by Moog, they will go 300K easy even with big tires. The set I put in last weekend was Napa and $298 here in Alaska so should be around $230 is the down south stores.
I use a $50 Chinese ball joint C-clamp tool from Harbor Freight and it works fine, done 13 sets with it so far . . . seems like I’m doing these all the time for someone anymore. The trick to the cheap tool is to cut the old stud off with a grinder or torch so the tool will have enough through to remove it. Works fine turned the other way putting the new ones in. Lots of work, the first set I did took 2 full days but now it’s about 5-6 hours to knock out both sides.
Oh and no pickle frock, you will ruin the boot on the tie rod with that. Use a tie rod end puller, most parts stores will rent them for nothing or next to it.
My baby is a one of a kind.
1977 I bought a new 76 F150 club cab.
Sitting on a 84 F350 6.9 4X4 chassis
With all the drive train and goodies from a 95 4X4 4door PSD.
Nothing stock left on her and not a nut, bolt, hose, or wire on there that I didn't put where it is.
The Wifes Ride:
2002 Excursion Limited 7.3 PSD
Themo King/Mikuni coolant heaters on both to keep things toasty without idling.
Last edited by adfields; 11-17-2010 at 09:29 PM.