Replace front brake pads question

[mick883]

i am sure there is a thread out there about this, but my search of the 99-03 forums with the keywords of "front brakes" or "replace front brakes" showed over 200 threads, none of which seem to help me with chaning the front brake pads.

Now that my rant is over, can anyone help me with a link to changing out the front pads (pics are great for me)? Are their any secrects to changing them?

[Zaairman]

They're just standard disc brakes. No surprises.

[zambonimaxx]

I was never aloud to do anything relating to brakes at my house with my parents. I did them about three months ago (rotors & pads) and it was a cinch man, I thought it would be hard but I will for sure NEVER pay for anyone to touch my brakes again.
Keep in mind to chock block the rear (just for safety) have the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, have a fairly large C-clamp, and the proper brake kit. I got the upper - grade NAPA pads, and boy was I satisfied. Autozone (sometimes not the greatest) does not include new clips that hold the pads in. Also if its your first time, pick up a Haynes manual or a Chilton manual, that will make life easier with Torque specks etc. Also I checked them 100 miles afterward and again 500 miles, re-torqued and added some thread locker.

By the way I'm not trying to undermine/insult your mechanical intelligence just wasn't sure on what all you know and understand.

~Phil

[icysmooth]

Originally Posted by zambonimaxx

I was never aloud to do anything relating to brakes at my house with my parents. I did them about three months ago (rotors & pads) and it was a cinch man, I thought it would be hard but I will for sure NEVER pay for anyone to touch my brakes again.
Keep in mind to chock block the rear (just for safety) have the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, have a fairly large C-clamp, and the proper brake kit. I got the upper - grade NAPA pads, and boy was I satisfied. Autozone (sometimes not the greatest) does not include new clips that hold the pads in. Also if its your first time, pick up a Haynes manual or a Chilton manual, that will make life easier with Torque specks etc. Also I checked them 100 miles afterward and again 500 miles, re-torqued and added some thread locker.

By the way I'm not trying to undermine/insult your mechanical intelligence just wasn't sure on what all you know and understand.

~Phil

Yep! Just make sure rotors are in safe range.
I always turn rotors/drums when ever I do brakes.
Just have rotors checked to make sure they aren't too thin-
That will just make you buy new ones as well.
Your life-as well as others-ride on those!

[reinaldo]

I agree that it's just a normal break setup and you have to be sure that the rotors are in safe range so that you won't encounter acceleration problems in the future. I found out that wagner brake is a safe type of brake for replacement so if just in case you need to replace again, just try it.

[coot1]

Also make sure the slider pins move freely. Might have to take them out and clean them up to get them to work freely. Then lubricate them ( the slider pins only) with a high temperature grease.

[chrispaine]

Originally Posted by coot1

Also make sure the slider pins move freely. Might have to take them out and clean them up to get them to work freely. Then lubricate them ( the slider pins only) with a high temperature grease.

Yeah check the slider pins! Also have a big dead-blow hammer handy, depending on where you live and how long they have been on there the rotors and be stuck on the hub, very stuck!

[matter]

i use anti-sieze on all my slide pins