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Go Back   Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum > Ford Powerstroke 99-03 7.3L Forums > 99-03 7.3L General Discussion
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2007, 01:19 PM
Performance Oil Products Performance Oil Products is offline
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How many miles were on the 6.0 engine at the time the sample was taken? Wear metals are kinda high. Just wondering if it was still breaking in?

Oh yeah a huge difference between the PCO and the HDD, Not saying the PCO isn't a great product also because it is.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2007, 01:38 PM
sootyoil sootyoil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselman77 View Post
How many miles were on the 6.0 engine at the time the sample was taken? Wear metals are kinda high. Just wondering if it was still breaking in?

Oh yeah a huge difference between the PCO and the HDD, Not saying the PCO isn't a great product also because it is.
9,154 on the oil and 14,254 on the truck, at 5100 miles the OEM oil was drained and Amsoil cheapest diesel oil poured in along with a EaO88 and my friend was amazed at the difference in milage and how much quieter the truck ran, he really liked the cold starting difference also.
we will sample again in another 6,000 miles.
so the answer to your question is yes it is still breaking in.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2007, 03:12 PM
Lord Tauk Lord Tauk is offline
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My PSD has the "romps" in real cold startup without plugging in with both oil changes before Amsoil, I used Rotella 15W-40, when I switched to the 5W it spins over a little better IMO, and starts better under the same conditions in the winter.

So when I saw Amsoils 5W-40, I figured I'd just run it year round vs their 15W-40, I agree with Dieselman in what he said about it.

5W-40 will eventually replace 15W someday I guess, 15W just seems too thick for flow in cold engine winter startup, especially when our PSDs need the oil pumping to fire the injectors. All the new diesels are requiring 5W-40, not a whole lot different in how the oil is used besides different mechanical parts and configurations, unless Im missing something.

I also assume 5W-40 is for emission standards, as it was not available until just recently.

Last edited by Lord Tauk : 05-30-2007 at 03:19 PM.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2007, 10:34 AM
TexasKingRanch TexasKingRanch is offline
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Ya'll need to monitor the viscosity and TBN very closely with those long intervals. Be careful!
Oh, I thought I was in the 6.0 forum.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2007, 11:09 AM
onecrazyblackredenck onecrazyblackredenck is offline
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after reading all this I am curious now, I am using mobile 1 15w40 and I was going to switch to rotella, is this a good idea or amsoil. Hell I cant find anyone around here that sells amsoil.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2007, 11:42 AM
TexasKingRanch TexasKingRanch is offline
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I'm assuming you're running Delvac 15w40, it is rated CI-4 Plus.
Switch to Rotella T 15w40. It's a CJ-4 rated oil which is a step up, and only .20 cents more per gallon.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2007, 11:55 AM
onecrazyblackredenck onecrazyblackredenck is offline
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can you see a difference in fuel economy or tell a difference in performance or is it just mainly the way it lubricates? or is it just a matter of opinion lol
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2007, 01:22 PM
TexasKingRanch TexasKingRanch is offline
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You will notice little difference in economy if any at all, unless you go to a real synthetic like Amsoil. Then you might notice a few tenths of a mile increase.
It has everything to do with technical data. How well it will protect your engine, and how long you can run it (the drain interval). Rotella T carries the new CJ-4 API rating which provides more protection. Yet it is the same price as the Delvac you're running now, but it is better oil, and that's based on facts not just my opinion. The new CJ-4 Rotella is superior.

Basically when you go to the store to buy oil, ignore everything written on the bottle except for the letters in the little API circle on the back. Everything else is marketing. Even if it has other certifications written on the bottle, you go by what is in the circle.

It will say CJ-4, or CI-4 plus, ect. The oil is certified to meet that spec.
** What you want is CJ-4 **
If you do research you might find one or two negative opinions about CJ-4 oils, mainly because people are ignorant, and they bashed the new rating before the oils were tested. I understand the motive behind that, because the CJ-4 spec does limit the amount of certain additives which are added to oils when they're made, since CJ-4 was designed to meet 2007+ diesel engine specs which run on ULSD. It is safe to run CJ-4 in older engines, because it exceeds all previous ratings! Many oil analysis reports have been done on it and the CJ-4 oil is proving to be great oil. In simple terms the CJ-4 oil is a semi-synthetic, but with a real cheap price tag.

Now synthetics are a different ball game. It gets way more technical and other things come into play. You have to determine the base stock the oil starts out with. Rotella 5w40 is a group III (3) oil, which is just a highly refined (hydrocracked) petroleum base oil (comes out of the ground). Amsoil is a group IV (4) (100% synthetic PAO, made in a lab) and is WAY, WAY better! The better the base stock (base oil) the more resistant the oil is to break down, the better protection it offers, and the longer you can run it. The viscosity, and additives in the oil however are also very important when it comes to drain interval. The additives in the oil that allow you to go a while between changes make up what's called the TBN (or Total Base Number). The total base number is the oils ability to resist alkalinity, or acidic, which softens bearings, causes pitting, ect. The viscosity of the oil is the "thickness" or pour point at a given temperature. A thick enough viscosity (but not too thick) will provide a film on the moving parts in the engine. As the miles accumulate the oil gets sheered down, becoming thinner and thinner. If you start with a 5w40 for instance, it will become too thin much faster than a 15w40 would. This has a lot to do with the fact that a 5w40 is made with a light base oil and it has additives that cause it to thicken after it warms up. To make a make a longer story short those thickeners, called polymeric thickeners, are only good for so long, and after a while they can no longer thicken to the proper weight. Combine that with normal break down (as the oil "wears out"), your 5w40 that would normally be a 40w when fresh may only become a 20w (half of what it should be) at operating temperature unless it is changed frequently. In the 6.0L for example, this will cause the fuel injectors to not function properly.
So, stick with a 15w40 unless you are in a cold climate, decide what type of you want to run, and make your decision based off that.

If you want to run a cheap oil (by cheap I mean inexpensive) run Rotella T 15w40. I believe it is made up for group II and III's so it's equivalent to a semi-synthetic.

If you want a REAL synthetic, run Amsoil AME 15w40
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx
To get it cheap, sign up as a preferred customer for 10 bucks, and you can get it for dealer price.

Probably more info than you wanted, but you asked for it.
I could explain a lot more and in better detail but don't want to type anymore. I made some key words BOLD. If you want to learn more about oil type the bold words into a search engine and see what you can find to read.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2007, 01:27 PM
Performance Oil Products Performance Oil Products is offline
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Amsoil is less expensive than Rotella
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2007, 04:43 PM
TexasKingRanch TexasKingRanch is offline
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Darn? (the "d word" is censored) good point man. I almost bought some 5w40 Rotella yesterday but didnt because it was so expensive, and it aint even a true synthetic.

Amsoil is only 5 something a quart with a preferred membership.
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