Is there an air conditioning/heating forum? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-23-2010, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Is there an air conditioning/heating forum?

Because if so, I havent found it yet...
I did a general search through several of the forums and havent had any luck.

My air conditioner has become flaky, some days it works, some days it doesnt. When it does work, its perfectly cold and flows perfectly at every setting. 2000 F250 CC 4x4 7.3 265,000 miles+.

When I turn on the AC, the clutch engages the compressor, (I even hear a "click" sound) the lines are cold and build condensations as usual, so I know the compressor is working, but no air coming out of the vents, or the defrost, or anywhere else. I'm thinking the blower motor might be going out, but would it be flaky at first, then finally die? I would think if it was going out, it would just stop all together.

Would this be the most likely cause? Is there anyway to check it by jumping a lead directly to it or something like that so I can be sure it is the problem before purchasing a new one? I want to make sure it's not a wiring problem or a relay of some sort. I'm on a budget this week so gotta be sure...

Any info or help would be great! It's supposed be 98* today here in DFW with a heat index of 105* and even with my 4x70 air, I might as well have the heat turned on... Thanks

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post #2 of 9 Old 07-23-2010, 08:42 AM
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Sounds like corrosion on a connector somewhere. Start at the compressor and the blower fan and work your way backwards. I always pull the connector and apply some dielectric grease on the contact points and reconnect. Good Luck.

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post #3 of 9 Old 07-23-2010, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Well it started working again by itself. Going down the highway and I turned it on to see, and what do you know. I ordered a blower motor anyway, lets hope it keeps working until the new one gets here...

2000 F250 CC LB 4x4, rebuilt 4R100, 7.3 Powerstroke
2.5" Pro comp level kit
305/75/16 BFG KM2 Centerline 16x10 Blackfoots
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Bully Dog power pup stacked with Edge EZ
GloShift triple a-pillar gauge pod boost, pyro & trans temp EGR rugged black fender flares
full length black 3 step nerf bars, Ranch hand full replacements, headache rack and toolbox. DIY Intake, zoodad mod, boost fooler, tailgate ladder...
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-23-2010, 10:09 AM
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You need a new blower motor resistor. $12 part from the dealer.

Zach
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post #5 of 9 Old 07-23-2010, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Really? I did see a couple of write-ups on the resistor problem. Guess I need to read into it further.

Thanks!

2000 F250 CC LB 4x4, rebuilt 4R100, 7.3 Powerstroke
2.5" Pro comp level kit
305/75/16 BFG KM2 Centerline 16x10 Blackfoots
4" turbo back MBRP, Tymar Intake
Bully Dog power pup stacked with Edge EZ
GloShift triple a-pillar gauge pod boost, pyro & trans temp EGR rugged black fender flares
full length black 3 step nerf bars, Ranch hand full replacements, headache rack and toolbox. DIY Intake, zoodad mod, boost fooler, tailgate ladder...
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-23-2010, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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From what I've read so far and been told by the Ford house, a faulty resistor would cause the blower motor to run on high all of the time, no matter what fan setting I have it on. When mine is functional, it works properly.

If I removed the resistor itself, would I find any damage on it if it was faulty? Something that would tell me for sure that it was the problem? The resistor they priced me was $35 from ford and $31 from o'reillys.

2000 F250 CC LB 4x4, rebuilt 4R100, 7.3 Powerstroke
2.5" Pro comp level kit
305/75/16 BFG KM2 Centerline 16x10 Blackfoots
4" turbo back MBRP, Tymar Intake
Bully Dog power pup stacked with Edge EZ
GloShift triple a-pillar gauge pod boost, pyro & trans temp EGR rugged black fender flares
full length black 3 step nerf bars, Ranch hand full replacements, headache rack and toolbox. DIY Intake, zoodad mod, boost fooler, tailgate ladder...
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-23-2010, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Just FYI, here is some interesting reading on the blower motor resistor, it's components, and general info if anyone is interested. It's written for a crown vic, but it shows technical information and plenty of good pictures of faulty resistors that include all of the ford vehicles including F250/F350 and Excursions up to 03.

Ford Blower Motor Resistor Pigtail Replacement

2000 F250 CC LB 4x4, rebuilt 4R100, 7.3 Powerstroke
2.5" Pro comp level kit
305/75/16 BFG KM2 Centerline 16x10 Blackfoots
4" turbo back MBRP, Tymar Intake
Bully Dog power pup stacked with Edge EZ
GloShift triple a-pillar gauge pod boost, pyro & trans temp EGR rugged black fender flares
full length black 3 step nerf bars, Ranch hand full replacements, headache rack and toolbox. DIY Intake, zoodad mod, boost fooler, tailgate ladder...
"Dual antennas whippin in the wind..."
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-24-2010, 03:32 PM
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Mine was doing the same thing and finally just quit. Unplug the connector and jump it to the battery to see if its the blower motor or the resistor. After I pulled mine I removed the motor cover and found that one of the brushes was completely gone and only the wire was left, also the commutator had about a 1/16" groove cut into it. It was history. Good luck

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post #9 of 9 Old 08-04-2010, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Well I replaced the blower motor resistor and no luck, next step was the blower motor iself and after that was the vacuum pump.

Turned out to be the blower moter thankfully! $40 and now have AC, which is a good thing in Texas in August...

2000 F250 CC LB 4x4, rebuilt 4R100, 7.3 Powerstroke
2.5" Pro comp level kit
305/75/16 BFG KM2 Centerline 16x10 Blackfoots
4" turbo back MBRP, Tymar Intake
Bully Dog power pup stacked with Edge EZ
GloShift triple a-pillar gauge pod boost, pyro & trans temp EGR rugged black fender flares
full length black 3 step nerf bars, Ranch hand full replacements, headache rack and toolbox. DIY Intake, zoodad mod, boost fooler, tailgate ladder...
"Dual antennas whippin in the wind..."
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