PAINT QUESTION

[bamaboy473]

I'm going to paint the truck and my first job will be to fill in dents and scratches on the bed. Since I don't do this kind of work for a living, it's been several years since I've filled and sprayed filler primer, so doubt that the work will look ready to paint after the first go-round.

Fill, wet sand, prime, sand, then do it over again until the surface is smooth, so anything with a pot life of several hours isn't going to last.

What I'd like to know is what kind of primer will keep in a can for several days?

[mbahr22250]

Clean the tip of your gun really good when your done for the day and stick the whole gun paint and all in the fridge. It will keep atleast overnight.

[bamaboy473]

Neat trick. Does it help to use a slow reducer?

[DirtyDiesel]

wiht a 2 part primer u cna only mix wat u need. at our shop we use montana 2K primer. this way u mix wat u need and then activate it (and reduce it if u need to) it wont sit int he gun for long but long as u dont activate it it wont get hard on ya.

PS- i wouldnt wet sand any body work to prime. jus some dry 320 is fine for primer, never go coarser than 180 for primer to cover or ull see scratches. when ur ready to paint then u can go over ur primed surfaces with 400 wet and be ready for a sealer. id go over the old paint with a 600 for paint, jus make sure if its a silver or high metalic color to get the scratches covered or ull see them thru the clear.

[bamaboy473]

Originally Posted by DirtyDiesel

PS- i wouldnt wet sand any body work to prime. jus some dry 320 is fine for primer, never go coarser than 180 for primer to cover or ull see scratches. :

The paint on the truck needs to come off; it's about the worst re-paint I've ever seen; looks like it was painted over the OEM finish without sanding, so there's paint flaked off and some bubbles under the paint.

Thinking about using just to get the old paint off, then up the grades until 320 or so. Time isn't my big challenge, so what do you think about getting the old coat off?

[DirtyDiesel]

thats always a PITA to do. pretty much watever works best for the paint. somtimes we use paint stripper (time consuming and makes a hel of a mess). or jus use some coarse sand paper (very time consuming). try getting a good air squirter and try and blow all the junk paint off, if u can. itll take quite a bit of air so maybe thatd be out of the option unless u hav some big air in ur shop. we use 2-5hp compressors.

its reasons like this that any respectable body shop HATES places liek maaco or econo or anywhere thatll do a cheap paintjob.

[bamaboy473]

Air? Good idea, and I have a big LOUD compressor in the garage that can supply it. The nice thing is that I have the time to do the work, and the bed is three separate panels so I can do one panel at a time without wearing my azz out.

I want to stay away from chemicals if I can so the OEM paint doesn't get wrecked...

[DirtyDiesel]

yeah then paint stripper is def out, thatll take it down to the metal. ur best bet would be to try and blow as much of the paint off as u can then try and sand watever is left. if they didnt sand any of the truck prior to painting u hav some serious work to do but if they jus didnt get around the edges and thats where its flaking off then maybe u can feather the old paint bak and jus prime it to make the 2 coats even.

dam jus thnking of people that do that kinda work pisses me off. dunno why sombody would ruin a nice truck like that. i could understand if it was a ole junker civic or somthing.

[bamaboy473]

Here's what we have after sanding the blisters out. What do you think, should I try filler primer, or glazing compound, or get more aggressive with the sanding?

[DirtyDiesel]

can u take the air blower and blow any of it off? put the tip of the blower right on the edge of the top/bottom paint and see if any flakes off. if not then take ur sand paper and try and feather the edge down.

by the look of the second pic the paint on the ridge ont hebed will come off some more with a air blower.