Boost Pressure

[purduefarmboy460]

Alright, I have been doing so reading online about what others are getting out of stock turbos on their strokers...

I have been hearing alot about wastegates and the like, and someone mentioned adjusting the rod on the gate to increase the delay before it opened. others have said just take the red tube off the actuator completely. I don't even know what mine produces. they say to start out tightening all of your hoses to gain a few pounds if they are lose.

Does anyone have experience with modifying the wastegate? pros? cons?

If all you need to do is adjust that linkage, how many turns does it take? plug it completely?

any thoughts on this? free power, 27psi is optimum for 7.3Ls ??? and about all the stock turbo should have for prolonged life periods?

[Harley Truck]

i believe there was a somewhat similar post somewhere else on here. I personally wouldnt suggest modifying a wastegate actuator, but perhaps you couldl find an after market wastegate with a different spring-rate in it. running a boost leak test always helps too. Of coarse with ANYTHING that modiofies boost pressure i would suggest getting a non-stock boost gauge also. perhaps a Manual boost controller might be an option too.

[Ramsmoker]

I'm either lucky or crazy or both. One of the first things I did when I got home with my truck was disconnect the waste gate vacume lines. The stock turbo even when chipped up won't make enough boost to hurt anything. I have two 100,000mi trucks with 100hp chips that have run this way since new. My hardest pull was for about 10mi 30 to 40psi with ICP controller up all the way and 850 degree EGT. You should see my sons Cummins. at a full throttle thru the gears his gauge goes from 0 to 60 at each shift.

[Mykol]

Can anyone tell me how to best locate a boost leak? I have a 99 1/2 PSD that is low on power and makes the chirping air-rushing sound when loaded at lower RPMs. I don't have guages yet, so I am not certain of my actual boost pressure. Any advice? Thanks

[Patrick]

Well, its kind of a time consuming project, but taking the intercooler tubes off and the intake "X" once a year wouldnt be a bad idea. If you cleaned all the tube ends and rubber boots, inspect them for tears or cracks. Clean everything good and put it back together. If you take your time, and clean everything good it might take you a couple hours, but it most likely will fix your problem. At minimum it will remove one possability from the equasion.

[Ramsmoker]

I second the message to clean your system. If you have not changed the routing of your CCV you should notice oil around all the joints on the intake system. But like the previous post said if you take everything apart you will see any bad or loose couplers. It could take a few hours but if I get one that doesn't have the CCV mod, I pull the charge air cooler out and clean it out.

[BlackCloudStroker]

Im running a manually adjustable wastegate that has a threaded rod and a spring with it set to pop off at 30 psi. I also have a wicked wheel, no air intake heater and the exhaust back pressure flap removed. I also bored the exhaust housing out when i took the flap out. Theres no turbo lag what so ever straight to 30 psi on every shift. You also have to run either a regulator or a pop off valve to your map sensor so you dont get an overboost code and defuel the truck.

[Ramsmoker]

I was going to bore mine out to. I got lazy and bought the GDS 4" housing. Now in the dog daz of summer I need to put it on.