A/C issues

[no-tel-in]

Ok, so its hot now....lol
I cut my a/c on and it gets cold for a while, then after some driving it seems the compressor quits engaging because it stops blowing cold. It will initially blow for about 10 mins before kicking off, then it will not come back on unless you cut it to the off position and leave it there for a while and turn it back on. It is very annoying. I have also found if I am running between 45-60 in od with tc locked, that the ac gets warm, drop out of od and bring the rpms close to 2k and it gets cold

Any ideas??
Thanks

[NoRalPh]

Low on gas???

Get a set of gauges on to for Hi/Lo readings while it's running.....

[MONSTER_NRG]

Bump, mine is doing the same thing.

[no-tel-in]

Supposedly its alright on gas, had it checked a few months ago, and they added the dye, and I havent seen any.

[AaronATX]

another bump, i'm having the same issue

[no-tel-in]

lol every year like clockwork you can count on the glowplug threads by late october, and A/C threads by May. HAHA

[powerstroke_n]

I got this info from a member on another site and it worked for me. Maybe it will help you and other members out as well. It's worth checking.

Quote:
You have a classic case of the air gap in your compressor having worn too wide.

Try this to test:

Turn on the A/C and run it until the clutch won't re-engage. Be REAL CAREFUL now! Take a plastic screwdriver handle and "tap" the end of the (not spinning) clutch. Does it immediately engage and operate normally until it next cycles off, and then won't re-engage on its own?

If so:

Get out your feeler gauges, or your calibrated eyeballs, and determine that the air gap is about .050" to .060" (fifty or sixty thousandths). That's too much! It's supposed to be around .030. But wait! There's no need to replace the compressor and have to re-charge the system. There's a "dirt-cheap" fix!

See the little bolt right in the middle of the compressor shaft? Take it out. You won't be letting any Freon out. Pull the clutch plate straight out. There is one or more "shims" that look like small washers in there, either on the end of the shaft or down in the hole that fits on the shaft. Take off about .030" worth of them and reassemble. Go ahead, use a little blue (NOT green!) Loctite on the bolt as insurance.

Make sure you now have at least .025" of gap. Start the engine and check to insure your problem is gone.

That's all there is to it.

[no-tel-in]

Huh, thats some good info! I'll try that tomorrow

[DJM]

Let me know if it works. It's gettin hot here too. Mine was doin that last year.

[no-tel-in]

AMAZING.... thats why I love this place! It hasnt cut out in 3 days now! The procedure was very easy to do, took all of 10 minutes.


Now, I want to do the heater core block off mod. Does anyone know which heater hose headed toward the firewall that you have to put a valve in? I am just going to have it manual, I really dont care about turning it on and off from the cab. I assume that its the hose coming out of the top of the water pump... but idk