Powersteering Pump Replacement How-To - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 05-11-2010, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Powersteering Pump Replacement How-To

I couldn't find one on here, so I'll make one. Another forum said it took him 45 minutes, it took me about 3 hours but I work really slow. I appologize about lack of "original" pictures as I didn't think about it until after the fact.

I've got a generic picture attached with color coded circles. Most everything is pretty straight forward as I did it without a guide. Some of the tool sizes I pulled off the top of my head so they may be incorrect.

Wrenches (1/2", 7/8")
1/2" or 13MM deep and short well socket
8MM socket
17MM socket
1/2" drive ratchet
3/8" drive ratchet
Breaker bar
Catch pan
Power Steering Pulley remover (borrowed it from Advance Auto Parts, O'reilly had one also)
Jack and stands
Siphon device (optional)
3/8" or 1/2" clear hose (optional)

I found that removing the entire bracket made for disassembly/reassembly easier. DO NOT START TRUCK UNTIL AFTER YOU BLEED THE SYSTEM.

Step 1: Remove driver side battery cables and plastic battery cover. Remove battery.

Step 2: Remove air filter. Use I believe it's an 8MM socket and loosen the accordian tube's hose clamps and remove it and the top of the air box.

Step 3: Use a 13MM socket and remove the 2, 1/2" bolts that were under the battery and the 2, 1/2" bolts that attach the box to the fender. Remove the 2, 8MM bolts in the air box. Remove the 2, 8MM bolts between the air box and battery box.

*WARNING* There is a sensor hooked into the battery box, do not break it. Simply twist from outside of the airbox and remove from air box. No need to try to mess with unhooking it. Set it out of the way so it doesn't get broken.

Step 4: Remove the front snorkle that is attached to the front of the battery box. This can be done by pushing the top, inside portion down and sliding it out of the air box. You can also use a flat head screwdriver to help. Just slide it forward and out of the way, no need to remove.

Step 5: Remove entire battery/air box assembly

Step 6: Yellow Circles. Remove the intercooler tube that goes to the "Y". This is done with a 1/2" or 13MM deep well socket. There are a total of 4 clamps that hold it on, 2 on top and 2 at the bottom toward the headlight. Loosen the 2 on the "outside" edge of the tubes and slide intercooler tube off. This will be a pain to get back on later. Put the top on first then do the bottom.

Step 7: Blue Arrow. Use the 1/2" ratchet and go to the passenger side of the motor. Look between the A/C condenser pulley (large, top) and smaller tensioner pulley you should see a hole that the ratchet will fit into. Slide the ratchet into the hole with the handle up. Place a breaker bar on the handle then have someone pull the handle down toward the truck. This will loosen the belt. Remove the belt from the alternator and the power steering pump. I had a difficult time removing the breaker bar from the ratchet (wedged between the A/C pulley and coolant reservoir). This was due to lack of tension on the belt. You can remove it once you put the belt back on.

Step 8: Blue Circles. Use a 13MM socket and remove the 3 top bolts holding on the alternator. Mine were so tight that my impact could not break them loose. I had to use a breaker bar. Set the alternator on top of the motor being cautious of the connectors. Remove the wire from the plastic retaining clip on the back of the aluminum bracket below the alternator. You can tape this back up later.

Step 9: Remove the reservoir cover. Use the siphoning device to remove all excess fluid. I had a bottle pump so I used that to get all the excess fluid out of the reservoir. The more you get out the cleaner this will be.

Step 10: Use pliars and remove the top rubber hose by pushing the ends of the clamp together and sliding it up the hose. Pull the hose off. Drain into catch pan.

Step 11: Fluid will drain out of the bottom of the reservoir here so have your clear hose ready. Use pliars and remove the bottom rubber hose clamp. Pull hose off and quickly place clear hose on that and drain into catch pan. Drain rubber hose into catch pan also.

Step 12: Use what I believe is a 7/8" wrench and unscrew the only attachment left on the side of the pump. This should have a teflon o-rin when you pull it off. The new pump should come with an o-ring and new seal. There shouldn't be any other hoses attached to the pump.

Step 13: Use 13MM socket. There are 4 bolts holding the bracket on. Two are obvious on the front of the bracket. There is 1 in the indention right by the pulley and one below the pulley. The one at the bottom was semi-easier to get to from the bottom and easy to see there. Once you remove these the whole bracket will fall out.

Step 14: Take note of how far in/out the shaft it inside the pulley. You will need to match this when you re-attach the pulley.

Attach the pulley puller to the front of the power steering pump. See picture for help from here. Each piece is numbered on the picture and should have similiar pieces.

Take piece #2 and slide it up through the bottom of piece #3. Threads should be "down". The nut is the top of piece #3. The #2 piece has a tapered thread so it will only go in one way otherwise it won't screw in to #3. Screw #2 into #3 so the bottom of the rod is flush with the bottom of #3. Place this against the pulley.

Remove piece #1, this should be three seperate pieces. A two-piece collar and a sleve that fits over it. Take the collar and put it around the #3 piece and the pulley. This collar has two sides. Place the side with the widest part of the collar against the pulley as it should fit onto the pulley.

Tighten piece #2 with a 1/2" socket against the pulley. You can use your fingers to tighten it. This piece does not need to be strongest man tight. The #3 piece is what pulls the pulley off.

Place the 1/2" socket on the #2 piece and use a 7/8" wrench on the nut of #3. Turn the #3 piece counter-clockwise while holding the #2 piece with the socket. As you turn #3 it will slide up #2 and pull the pulley off the shaft. It takes a while

Once the pulley comes off, put up the tools.

Step 15: Use the 17MM socket and remove the 3 bolts holding the pump to the bracket. Put in new pump in the same orientation as the old and re-bolt it up.

Step 16: Re-attach pulley. I used PB blaster to lube the shaft and interior of pulley for ease. Test fit #4 by screwing it into the pulley shaft. It should thread into it. If it does not use one of the other threaded rods. The short ones are the ones you need though.

Put pulley onto the shaft.

Use piece #2 and #3 the same as in the removal. Use piece #4 and screw that into the end of #2. Use piece #5 (bearing and a washer) and put it onto #4 so that the bearing is against the bottom of #3. Place this against the pulley and screw #4 into the pulley shaft.

The same as removal you will hold #2 with the socket and use the wrench to tighten #3. Turn #3 clockwise to thread it down #2 and it should push the pulley onto the shaft. Tighten until it matches how far in/out the shaft was on the old pump.

Step 17: Replace all the pieces in the opposite order starting from Step 15 and going to #1. Ensure the belt lines up. If it does not you may have to push or pull the pulley on the shaft to get it lined up. Also ensure you put the o-ring and teflon seal into the pressure line (only threaded line)

Step 18: Jack up the front of the truck so the wheels are off the ground and support with jack stands.

Step 19: Add ATF fluid to the reservoir. Turn wheels from lock to lock (TRUCK OFF!) to bleed air from the system. Add ATF as necessary until there are no more bubbles coming out of the system. Keep it full of fluid. Put the cap on the reservoir ensuring it's at the proper level.

After putting everything back together start the truck and let it idle. Check for leaks.
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[Click HERE!]

'00 F350
Mods: Nitto Trail Grapplers, Diamo 17 Karat wheels, Red-head Steering box, Autometer gauges, Tru-Cool #4739 trans cooler, BFxenon HID lights
'03 Mustang GT
Mods: A bunch. --> Clicky <--

Last edited by merc123; 05-12-2010 at 09:16 AM.
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post #2 of 4 Old 05-11-2010, 09:04 PM
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does the pump going out cause a vibration when driving?

2002 F-250 POWERSTROKE 4X4

BANKS 4" Turbo-Back w/ Power Elbow
Converted from 3/4 to 1TON
Napa 6637 DIY Intake
6.0 Trans. Cooler
Dipricol Gauges
Warn Hubs
TW 6 Pos.

And Some Other Boring Stuff

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post #3 of 4 Old 05-11-2010, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Mine did not and I don't think a pump would cause vibration, it just pumps fluid. It just got harder to turn (hard to believe I know) and really had to idle up to get it to turn. Plus with my new steering box I went ahead and figure I'd do the new pump too just to take care of it.

Yours sounds more like a balljoint or some sort of tie rod issue. Also out of balance tires can cause vibration.

[Click HERE!]

'00 F350
Mods: Nitto Trail Grapplers, Diamo 17 Karat wheels, Red-head Steering box, Autometer gauges, Tru-Cool #4739 trans cooler, BFxenon HID lights
'03 Mustang GT
Mods: A bunch. --> Clicky <--

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post #4 of 4 Old 05-17-2010, 06:41 AM
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Need a little help here with the teflon washer and o-ring. When I removed my fitting all that was on there was a destroyed white nylon washer. No o-ring what so ever.

New pump came with new white nylon washer and black rubber o-ring. I can't figure out how to get these onto the treaded fitting. I think if i force the nylon washer on I am going to destroy it. Another post mentioned a seal installer what is that? Is there a trick to doing this?

This nylon washer is smaller in diameter than the threads so I really don't see it stretching over the threads without me destroying it.

I also read that the nylon washer goes on first and then the rubber o-ring. Need a little help here the kids at the auto parts stores don't have a clue what's going on.

What am I missing? Why am I having such a hard time with this?

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