Tie rod ends - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:46 PM
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Tie rod ends

where can i find a set of tie rod ends? what brand is best
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:56 PM
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and any pointers on changing them? is it hard?
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:53 PM
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Its almost time for me to do some front end work also, an i have been wondering the same thing...

Are NAPA parts good as long as they come with Grease Nipples?

Im sure someone will chime in an let us know what the goods an bads are...

-Henry
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Old 05-06-2010, 05:21 PM
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Can't go wrong with Moogs in my book...
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:24 AM
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I did as much moog as I could when I took my front end apart at 99K

Upper joints $39 each
Lower joints $50 each
Cross steering setup, 119 pass side, 20 adjuster, 29 driver
Pitman to pass, pitman end 39, adjust 20, pass end 39

Axle seals 52 each, tube seals 14 each
Axle bearings were good, but I was ready at 145 each with the anti-lock
Rotors 49 each
pads 45
Slide pins and hardware for both sides 27 (ALWAYS replace the F'in slider pins $7 a side insurance, mix disc brake grease and antiseize and PLASTER the hell out of them when you install them)

I also eliminated the vacum hubs and went to the manual Mile Markers (Its a dually and superwinch said theirs wouldn't work. I also didn't need the MM conversion nut kit, maybe single wheels do, but my dually didn't need that, $60 down the drain)

While I was in there and had the entire thing apart I also did Rancho shocks and a 2" leveling kit, 45 each for the 5000 shocks and 279 for the full leaf leveling kit with drop pivot bracket.

I didn't add it up but I figure a ball joint job would be around 350-400 for all the joints and seals and misc. Tie rod job about 300. Brake job about 175. Leveling about 500. Hubs about 170. Entire new front end with doing the sway bar bushings, u-joints, and hub bearings (which I didn't do those 3), about 1300. I have about the same in with my leveling kit and shocks.
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:33 AM
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I have used moog. Tried the TRW, and they failed very quickly.

One thing I have done is look at the part numbers. If the store brand number is the same as the moog one, it just is the same part, differnt box. I think Pepboys uses moog, and Orilley's uses moog. Just make sure the part numbers match up. That or even ask them. That is how I saved some coin doing the work.

The job is not that hard, just get a ball joint remover, or pickle fork. If all else fails, heat it up.

I did my tie rods, hubs, seals, warn lockouts, and both upper and lower ball joints in one day, but I had the ball joint tool, pickle fork, torch and air tools.
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Old 05-07-2010, 07:49 AM
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I forgot to mention that, chances are pretty good you'll need a torch, at the very least a 5lb mini sledge to beat things out. I needed the torch to get the dually hub extenders off. Next fun was getting the hub bearings out, take the tie rod off, turn it all the way to one direction and carefully drive the hub out with a punch and hammer. The caliper slide pins were FROZEN solid and required the torch to get those out and to burn the rust inside once they were out. Frankly if your pins are frozen you MUST have a torch, that or alot of patience, I prefer the torch method, run a drill in there to just clean it up, then pour it full of alchol and light it up and burn anything left in the bores out, clean the bores throughly with brake cleaner, then slather disc brake grease and anti-seize in the bores and on the pins so hopefully that never happens again.

Another trick I figured out is the upper joint just keeps spinning when you go to tighten the nut (or is it the lower?) anyways once the hub is put back onto the axle end put a jack under the lower joint and jack up slightly on the spindle or hub, the ball joints go tight and that joint no longer spins and you can fully tighten the nut.
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Old 05-07-2010, 08:24 AM
DJM DJM is offline
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Moog is good but believe it or not the factory Ford ones will probably be the best in my opinion. Not sure who Ford has make them.
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