2.5" Rough Country Leveling Kit and Energy Suspension Bushings Report - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 04-13-2007, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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2.5" Rough Country Leveling Kit and Energy Suspension Bushings Report

Just got my truck back yesterday after getting the ball joints replaced, new poly trackbar/swaybar bushings, and 2.5" lift springs and shocks. I tried doing the springs myself and it was over my head. No matter what I did I couldn't get the **** things to fit. If you've never done that kind of work before its NOT as easy as they make it look in the instructions even if you have a garage full of tools. Anyway, I know that but I won't be able to take any until later today.

The stance is AWESOME. The truck sits with a very slight rake now, which I think is better than it sitting exactly level. It looks great from all angles, especially the front. The ride is only slightly stiffer than stock IMO. After all, it's an F-350 so how much stiffer could it get? I drove it home on a sectioned concrete highway, so I got a pretty good feel for the difference. I'm sure you could get a little softer ride with better shocks, but I just went for the basic package shocks since they were the cheapest. It doesn't bother me because I know my truck isn't supposed to ride like a Cadillac. I paid $350 (including shipping) for the kit.

The new bushings make a huge difference too. Even with the 2" of lift I don't feel like I'm "listing" anymore when I make a turn at 25-30 mph. Lane changes feel better too. To do the swaybar/track bar it only cost me $60.00 (I ordered from a dealer on Ebay) and its a really simple job. Anyway, I'm really happy with it all and I'll post up some pics soon.

2003 F-350 7.3L FX4
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post #2 of 5 Old 04-13-2007, 01:52 PM
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what was the fit issue with the springs. and how far did you get..

there are a few tricks to do it. but try lofting a 110 pound spring under there. thats a chore.
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post #3 of 5 Old 04-13-2007, 03:47 PM
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Are you running with stock sized rubbers? My neighbor had a leveling kit installed with his factory tires and they just don't look right anymore.IMO Can't weight for those pics You can fit 35's under there now right? If you like that sorta thing



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post #4 of 5 Old 04-13-2007, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidwestOffroad View Post
what was the fit issue with the springs. and how far did you get..there are a few tricks to do it. but try lofting a 110 pound spring under there. thats a chore.
I got everything disassembled in about an hour. Then I ran into problems once I got the front shackle bolted up. I couldn't get the pin to seat into the spring pad on either side. I had never done a suspension job before period-but I've done enough with cars to think I could do it. Anyway, the mechanic even said he had a hell of time getting them compressed enough to be able to line up the rear eye with the shackle. And you're right-maneuvering those suckers around is no picnic. Kinda like trying to wrestle a 4 foot steel pipe full of concrete.

Here's a pic I snapped with the cell phone at work today. Its not a very good one because the truck seems like it sits a tad higher in the front, but I think the ground I parked it on was a little uneven. The tires do look a little small so I think I'll spring for something bigger once I need new ones. I was thinking about Workhorse Radials (Goodyear) but I gotta see what sizes they come in.


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post #5 of 5 Old 04-13-2007, 08:09 PM
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I is usually easiest to completely remove the spring,but depending on the year like 2001-2004 that had the crash bar and the foglights. the bumper removal takes longer. then i just leave the spring in the truck

start with one side at a time. I just always start on the drivers side.

loosen the shackle bolts .

I also disconnect the sway bar , quickest is to remove the 4 13mm head bolts from the axle. this allows the axle to droop. if needed the track bar should loosened on one end.

remove the shocks ,ubolts and lower the axle away from the spring pack.

remove pin and install spring stack. and so on.

Doing both side at once you would have to fight the axle around. dong one side helps keep it in place but lowering the axle will shift it sideways.

to help align the spring you can remove the spring from the shackle and align it on the axle. and jacking the axle in place you can now move the shackle up and down to help align the bolt holes.

in race cases i have had to use a ratchet strap to help pull the axle in place. but it usually happens on large springs and having to droop the one side so far, the axle will shift forward or back.

not that this would have helped as some are more of a bear than others.
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