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Old 02-02-2010, 11:53 AM
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buying 00 4WD CCSB.....maybe

guys- i have been looking at F-250 4WD CC for about a month now. this will be my first diesel and i dont know much about them at all, other than i think these trucks look real good. one decision i made was to buy one w/ a 7.3. i was wanting to spend ~15k on my first diesel, i did not want to get in debt to far only to find out this diesel stuff aint for me, in my shopping i have found a 00 w/ 187k F-350 4WD CC single wheel rear end. the guy is asking 4500 for it and the things i can find wrong are a couple of small whiskey dents and some paint chipping above doors and some issues w/ the interior like:

*the dome light does not come on when u open any of the doors, but works manually
*the overhead console does not work.
*the leather is shot on the drivers side seat.
*the power door locks do no work
*the door panel (side pocket deal) on front passenger side door is loose
*the shift on the steering column has some slack and the boot is busted.
*the abs light is on.

he told me this is a 99 cab on the truck and title reflects that but he is the third owner and did not realize it until he tried to trade it in.

if u guy's wouldn't mind, give me some advice on what u would do. this price works a hell of a lot better for me (i have 4 kids and a wife that is raising an eyebrow to my new found powerstoke obsession). at this price i could put 2-3k in it and still come out way ahead of the game.....


i would really appreciate any help!
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:55 AM
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Send a message via AIM to no-tel-in
Make sure that you can register/insure it with an altered title
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:58 AM
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he has it registered and insured rite now, but they may have missed it. he said he took out a loan to buy it and the finance company he used did not catch it.

i did not think about that, i will check that out.........

thanks
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:58 AM
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does anybody think that all of the issues i listed w/ the truck may be throwing up flags that something aint rite w/ the 99 cab being put on a 00 model truck or is this just a laundry list of common problems that has went uncorrected?

the engine and tranny seem to be in real good shape, just not sure if i am goin to have major problems w/ repairing the little electrical things........

thanks for the help

tate
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:10 AM
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the overhead computer quiting working happens alot there is a write up on how to fix it here somewhere and the dome light might be something disconected or a buld took out of it so it want come on when you open the door i know i do that durning hunting season and if i need it ill use the two on the side the power locks its prolly the acuators gone out on them mine has the same problem. and the shifter you can tighten that up with and adjustment knop under the dash. the abs light is prolly a sensor messing up somehwhere ive had that happen before. and the door pocket bein loose take some super clue and put it back together. 187k miles on these things really aint alot of miles if it was serviced right and all. and the 99 cab should cause no problems at all
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:21 AM
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thanks buddy, r u a ga dawg fan??????
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:29 AM
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thanks buddy, r u a ga dawg fan??????
yup sure am lol
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:30 PM
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I've been told the 00 and 01 models have a terrible door lock issue that Ford won't pony up to... apparently it's a fuse issue in the door lock actuators. When one goes out they all do.There's a easy free fix for it, involving partially taking the door panel off to access the lock mechanism and wrapping a piece of foil around the 'fuse',,,, Mine is doing the same thing, the door locks will sit there and barely move when i hit the remote door lock. I have yet to do the foil trick myself. I read about the fix on another site.

RB
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Old 02-04-2010, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by XR-2001 View Post
I've been told the 00 and 01 models have a terrible door lock issue that Ford won't pony up to... apparently it's a fuse issue in the door lock actuators. When one goes out they all do.There's a easy free fix for it, involving partially taking the door panel off to access the lock mechanism and wrapping a piece of foil around the 'fuse',,,, Mine is doing the same thing, the door locks will sit there and barely move when i hit the remote door lock. I have yet to do the foil trick myself. I read about the fix on another site.

RB
find that write up lol i need to do it to mine
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:09 AM
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Here's part of the write up,,,, there is more suggestions and easier to do type tips somewhere. The thread link is at the bottom, maybe an admin can paste it somewhere that all can use the info. There's waaay too many people buying the complete actuator from Ford at a high cost, when it's a simple resistor/fuse causing the problem...... enjoy----- Russ

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To get your PSD doorlocks to work again WITHOUT spending a dime.

There has been discussions about possible issues and that the majority of us are seeing actuator motor problems and not relays, switches etc. Ill start by saying the problem is that when you hit the switch, the locks attempt to move and after repeated attempts, the signal appears to get weaker and weaker until nothing....seems like a relay or switch.....not the case at all.

If you test the signal at the harness plug to the actuator, its good. No issues here. Now if you completely removed the actuator/lock mechanism and bench test them with 12V heres what you will find. The actuator will act the same as when in the truck. Here's where it gets tricky. These things are built so that they are not serviceable, but they will comes apart relatively easily and can be put back together once apart.
First, drill out the two small rivets and then pry the case apart. As you pry the case apart you'll notice these small little plastic rods protrude up through the case cover. These rods are then "mushroomed" with heat through the upper case and then sealed with some kind of silicone. When you pry apart the case the "mushroom" head breaks off and the rod remains. You can dig out the silicone and mushroom head with a pick. It comes out very easy. Inside you will find a very small motor and some gear mechanism. Inside of the plastic brush housing, you'll find a small, thin rectangular thermal resistor relay, thingamabob - I'm not sure what its called. This little part is what keeps you from burning up the motor, should you continue to press the switch once the lock has been actuated. This thingamabob wears out over time and will not allow enough signal to get through to the motor to make it work.
THE FIX. Take a small piece of aluminum foil and wrap the "thingamabob". voila! Perfectly working motor!
To reasemble it: you cannot glue the unit together as there is a rubber gasket around the perimeter of the case and if you tried to glue the rods into the case, you would not have enough pressure on the two halves of the case to keep the gears in place (these things actually apply a great deal of torque on the case). So what you can do is break off the plastic rods flush with the bottom side of the case and then drill out the bottom case and screw it together. You'll need screws that are the same diameter as the holes in the top of the case to keep it alinged. The screws should not protrude through the back of the unit as some of the mechanism has some pretty close tolerances and a screw sticking through the back would get in the way of these mechanism - this can be remedied with a decent set of wire dikes or a hacksaw. Give it a try, its easier than it may sound!


Read more: http://www.*************.com/ford-po...#ixzz0efqz2ifd
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