2000 F250 PO113 code and bad mileage - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:49 PM
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2000 F250 PO113 code and bad mileage

Just got my 2000 f250 7.3 diesel Lariat on it's first roadtrip. I bought it salvaged and did some repairs to get it on the road (bumper, fender, etc). The air box had been pushed into the brake master cyl and busted a hole in the airbox. I replaced the airbox and took out the little airbox sensor and put it in the new airbox.

I just did a 250 mile road trip from sea level to 6000 feet and back again (Sac to Tahoe for those of you in NorCal). The truck only got 12 mpg in town, 13 on the hiway uphill, and then 16 mpg back down hill on the way home. All this based on the overhead "mpg/air temp/miles til empty" display. (I set it when I filled up, before I left, and have not reset it yet). I haven't refilled the truck to check actual mileage, but i'm at under 1/2 tank, which seems to correlate with the overhead display.

I checked the codes with a $30 code reader i've got an it read PO113. The little research i've done says this is an "intake air temp" code. Could the sensor for this be that little sensor that pops into the airbox by the master cyl? Could that sensor cause the poor gas mileage? I've also read that cracks in the intake, or turbo intake, or something like that could cause bad gas mileage. Finally, the truck doesn't seem to have as much power as I expected.

I was under the impression i'd get close to 16 mpg in town and 20 or more on the freeway. Truck is 4wd and has 144k miles. Prior owner said he averaged 16 mpg around town. This trip was with an empty bed, averaging 60-70 mpg. Truck is all stock.

Thanks for any input.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:04 AM
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never trust the li-o-meter, hand calculate everything you drive.
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:01 PM
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how do i check for intake leaks?

I checked my mileage when I filled up and it's worse then the o/h display, only 15.3 mpg. I wasn't driving hard, and expected much better mpg then this.

I'm about to do the 6637 intake upgrade, and figured I should check the intake for leaks. I've seen stuff about making a leak tester, using a tire valve, etc, but am not sure what i'm testing. Is it the tube from intake to turbo? Other tubes? Do I remove and cap one end to test, or test on the vehicle?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-27-2010, 02:51 PM
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well most people on here get around 16-18 city and like 18-20 freeway but thats usaully with intake and exhaust and sometimes a chip
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:37 PM
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btw im gettin 14.5 with just an exhaust, need some more to get the mileage up for suree. a chip would help.
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:51 PM
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Tires? Gears? Tranny? Mods? Describe the damage from salvage more-- sounds like you're thinking it caused more than just a crunch in the stock air filter box...

Knowing that would allow folks to calibrate answers. But from what I've been reading, 15.3 mpg is not horrible for a mostly stock auto tranny truck.

I think intake leaks would only affect mileage if you were in the charge air path, i.e. a leak post-turbo, intercooler through intake manifold. I would imagine you would hear a whistle or hiss from boost leaking out.

As for your P0113 code--- I know about that sensor on the air box because when you do a 6637 DIY intake you just zip tie it away, so I can't imagine that would be the one to cause any problems. If I were an engineer, I would want to measure the air temp immediately pre-combustion to get the most accurate reading for any fuel mixture etc. calculations... maybe look for another sensor closer to the intake manifold that could be faulting.

But I'm just a noob.

OH and what is current maintenance? Fuel filter? Oil change? etc.

Some people have mentioned sticking brake calipers, but I think yours is normal and just needs to optimization tweeking to get a few more mpgs.

Last edited by Diescipel; 01-27-2010 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:17 PM
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found a leak in the turbo connector hose

I was going over the engine and found a tear in the turbo connector boot on the drivers side of the engine compartment - see the pic, it's the blue hose between the stainless tubes. Anyone know how to get some replacement hose? I'm not sure if the guy at Napa had the right stuff in mind, but he quoted me about $60.00 for an 8" section of diesel turbo hose. Is this right??? I shi.. rigged it with some metal based duct taping and a wrap of gorilla tape, then re tightened the hose clamps and seem to get better power right off the bat.

I think the impact of the crash might have pushed the hose into the connector, resulting in the rip.

Diesiple - I think this is post turbo, so might account for the bad mileage and loss of power. The crash was when the left front bumper hit a cement barrier at about 20 mph. I had to have the frame straightened to the tune of $750.00 (front frame rails). The guy I bought it from seemed to be pretty anal, so I suspect he kept up on all the maintenance. There is an oil change sticker that shows another 1000 miles before oil change and the brake fluid seems to be clean.

The truck is all stock (stock tires, etc) and the build sheet says 3.73 rear axle. The prior owner said he did most driving around Lake Tahoe (probably average 30-45 mph) and averaged 16 mpg.

Thanks for the ideas.

Anyone with info on replacement hose for the turbo connector please chime in!
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:46 PM
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YEp you're right, that's in the charge air circuit, post turbo and post intercooler and right before intake manifold. It makes perfect sense that you got a gain in power after patching that up, because you were loosing boost pressure. I don't know about sourcing, but I think this hose is pretty common, so NAPA should be a good source if you get a guy who knows half a thing or two. Take him out to see the truck, have him measure diameter etc.

So-- is the truck auto or manual tranny? From what I've read, the auto trannies are limited in their mpgs. All trucks though benefit from cold air and free flowing intake. There is a cheap DIY mode with a NAPA 6637 filter (you can do a search) that will do the trick for about $60 total (depending on a few things...).

Next is to get the exhaust free-flowing by deleting the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (ITP Diesel, LLC has a nice delete part/'kit')-- but consider that this takes away a factory system to help the truck warm up faster. Once you do that, an aftermarket exhaust, including maybe a cat delete, will help the 7.3 breath on the other end better.

Next, or at the same time, is to change the dead-head design of both the high oil pressure and the fuel circuit in the heads by installing kits that cross over the pressures from one head to another, and that give you a regulated fuel return to the tank. ITPDiesel has a nice looking oil pressure crossover pipe, and Dino Fuel Alternatives has a cheap regulated return with a fuel pressure gauge tap ready to go. There's a better regulated return out there, can't remember the vendor, but it's way more expensive than DFA.

Finally, once you have gauges for Boost, EGTs, and for me Fuel Pressure (if auto tranny, then probably auto tranny fluid temp), you can get a 6 position chip and put an economy tune on 1 position for most of your driving to save fuel.

Since I have a manual tranny, based on what I've read here, I should be able to push my truck over 20 mpg highway with this strategy. Auto trannies as somebody said are looking at more like 18-20 mpg. All of this falls off the table when loaded/towing/in town/climbing hills/off road.

Again, I'm a noob and this is just based on what I've gleaned from reading the ORG for a couple months. So others with more knowledge and experience will probably correct me.

I bet you got a great deal on your truck and you will be able to make it yours. Sounds like the PO was good with maintenance, but there's nothing better than starting fresh with new fluids and filters. In particular, unless you have a receipt or something for the fuel filter being changed within the last 15K miles, change it out and see if it helps the mpgs.

HTH
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:36 PM
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What are some other symptoms of a bad iat how will the truck actually act because mine is sluggish, it gets in high rpm,
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Old 01-11-2011, 05:01 AM
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15 mpg sounds about right to me. I seriously debate the mods listed will help with MPG. I am very interested to find out though.

Also keep in mind that winter blends will give you worse mileage than summer.

I've been slowly working at getting my truck back to stock to get that extra mpg or two. Im currently on a 2" lift, with 10" wide rims (from previous owner) so I will report back if dropping back to factory specs makes a difference.
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