Well, yesterday I drove home the truck in my sig
. Truck ran great and I am amazed at how well mannered the thing was on the highway-- totally different feel and way better ride and handling than my previous 4x4s. I even got to do a little wheeling getting it out of the lot/yard where it had been parked for 8 months (estate sale) while I watched the seller bury her 2wd Yota up to the axle
. I would have pulled her out, but didn't have a tow rope. They had AAA come...
I would post pics but it's just a stock truck that's a little beat up. I'm not going to have any qualms about beating it up a little more
I was pleasantly surprised last night when checking out the original dealer window sticker-- it turns out the seller (sister of owner, original owner had died) didn't know about the LSD rear end. I've read here on the org that the Ford LSD sucks but it's better than plain open, right? Questions on options: what is the $125 "Off Road Package"? It's not an FX4 truck (or at least doesn't have the stickers...). It has remote keyless entry but I have no transmitter keyfobs-- I see in the owner's manual that they are easy to program -- how much do they cost? What is the 9700# GVWR package? Is that just the standard higher load capacity of the F350?
The truck shows a manufacture date of 2/99, so I believe this is a true late 99 truck - am I right? When ordering parts, should I just say it's a 2000 to avoid confusing early/late 99?
Anyhow, after I change out all the fluids and give it a once-over, there are a few things that need attention:
The ABS light stays on after starting (the PO had black electrical tape over it
). According to the manual, the ABS system is now disengaged so the brakes work conventionally. How should I approach fixing the ABS?
In the middle of my drive I stopped for lunch and when I took off again the speedometer was not registering anything at first. When I got up to about 30 mph it suddenly jumped up. Also noticed it was dead when coming out of a buddy's long driveway last night, at about 5-10 mph. Speedometer cable?
An accessory on the left side of the engine chirps at idle and does a minor high-pitched squeal at freeway speed. I'll have to diagnose better today with the engine running. Looks like it's the alternator or PS pump, bearing going. But there was no change in sound when turning the steering wheel, so probably the alt? Quick/easy fix for just the bearing?
There's a pretty loud rattle from the engine/tranny when I'm starting off/driving really slow. I thought maybe it was one of the clutch bearings, but it IS there when the clutch is fully engaged/foot off pedal, and there is no noise when the truck is idling in neutral or when I start to depress the pedal. It completely goes away when I get above 5 mph. I've had bad clutch bearing problems before and this doesn't seem like one. Ideas? Normal? Is this just the engine lugging (but truck is not loaded at all...)? I'm kinda thinking engine/tranny mount issue. I'll try to pinpoint it and describe it better later---
Truck has 202k miles. I know this is no big deal if it has been well-maintained. From the looks of the maintenance records and the way the truck drove yesterday, I'd say it has been. Tranny shifted smooth, the engine started right up and had plenty of power, the truck drove straight, brakes grabbed hard and straight, clutch was solid etc. The body is just well-used, but there's no rust on it (yet-- it came from inland, and I'm on the coast). BUT is there anything I should be aware of that typically goes at 200K regardless of maintenance history? Am I looking at a turbo rebuild?
This is just a weekend warrior truck for me, so once I'm confident it's mechanically sound I'm planning on just going for traction upgrades-- probably a TruTrac in the front. I'll leave the Ford LSD back there as long as it's working, but if it goes I'd like to do an ARB or other selectable in the rear or maybe just a Detroit. I *might* consider chipping it but I doubt it-- it's got more than enough power to do what I need it to do. The only temptation would be for better mpg -- are there tuners/tunes that can get better mpg but don't kill the stock power and don't lead to high EGTs?