Cold start and fuse problem

[spdjnky_42]

Its been 0 deg for a few days here and the truck is not wanting to start. It took several cranks and foot on throttle to start it yestarday. Today it took a jump and foot on throttle. I noticed the GFCI was tripping on the house but i assumed it just had moisture in the cord. Now Im wondering if the fuel heater is bad. Can someone tell me if i need to cycle the wts a few times when its this cold or if i need to replace a battery(which side cause it did slow crank) or what # fuse is the fuel heater on the 02 7.3 If it helps this truck has 143,000 miles. Thanks.

[bobbyglez]

It is the #30 fuse. if you replace it and it blows again, disconnect the heater. It is on the back bottom of the fuel bowl. Then replace fuse again. Wait to start light should then turn back on.

[spdjnky_42]

Originally Posted by bobbyglez

It is the #30 fuse. if you replace it and it blows again, disconnect the heater. It is on the back bottom of the fuel bowl. Then replace fuse again. Wait to start light should then turn back on.

My wts light is working and #30 on an 02 is only a 15A dont think thats the right one.

[bobbyglez]

Originally Posted by spdjnky_42

My wts light is working and #30 on an 02 is only a 15A dont think thats the right one.

# 30 should be a 30 amp. Is it cranking? If it is cranking slow, Replace both batteries.

[pinkfloyd]

Originally Posted by spdjnky_42

My wts light is working and #30 on an 02 is only a 15A dont think thats the right one.

#30 fuse in my truck is the high beems and it's a 15 amp fuse.

[pinkfloyd]

Did you test the gpr? Get your batteries tested. If your wait to start light is working I don't think there should be a problem with your fuses.

[pinkfloyd]

OH and if you have a bad battery, replace both of them.

[NoRalPh]

Wait a min...

Fuel heater, GFI?

I think you've got this mixed-up. The 110v plug your GFI controls has nothing to do with your fuel heater. It is a "block heater" located above the oil filter. If it's really cold this will assist in cold starting if your glowPlug system is working OK. If your GPs are NOT working the block heater becomes a necessity (if it's ZERO degrees and your block heater is NOT working AND you can get it started at all, your GP system IS working )

The fuel heater is located in the bottom of the filter housing, under the plastic cover, at the top/front of your engine. It doesn't really assist in starting but is more to help with fuel gelling / water freezing in the filter. If you blow fuse #30 over & over again it's shorted and will prevent the PCM from powering and will never start at all. You'll know the PCM is out because you won't have a WTS light.

Speaking of the WTS,,, when the light goes out it does Not mean the GPs are off, it's just a timer. So, don't "cycle" the key on/off to keep the light lit, simply leave the key ON past when the light goes out when it's really cold (maybe 1 min)

Batteries, charge them up full and the next morning when you goto start put a volt meter you can read through the windshield on either one and watch the voltage go down as you crank. See what it drops to, if it's down around 11v they're tired (make sure your terminals are scraped/cleaned/greased/tight all around for a proper test)

If they're the original batteries, you need new by now. If not how old are they?

[spdjnky_42]

Originally Posted by NoRalPh

Wait a min...

Fuel heater, GFI?

I think you've got this mixed-up. The 110v plug your GFI controls has nothing to do with your fuel heater. It is a "block heater" located above the oil filter. If it's really cold this will assist in cold starting if your glowPlug system is working OK. If your GPs are NOT working the block heater becomes a necessity (if it's ZERO degrees and your block heater is NOT working AND you can get it started at all, your GP system IS working )

The fuel heater is located in the bottom of the filter housing, under the plastic cover, at the top/front of your engine. It doesn't really assist in starting but is more to help with fuel gelling / water freezing in the filter. If you blow fuse #30 over & over again it's shorted and will prevent the PCM from powering and will never start at all. You'll know the PCM is out because you won't have a WTS light.

Speaking of the WTS,,, when the light goes out it does Not mean the GPs are off, it's just a timer. So, don't "cycle" the key on/off to keep the light lit, simply leave the key ON past when the light goes out when it's really cold (maybe 1 min)

Batteries, charge them up full and the next morning when you goto start put a volt meter you can read through the windshield on either one and watch the voltage go down as you crank. See what it drops to, if it's down around 11v they're tired (make sure your terminals are scraped/cleaned/greased/tight all around for a proper test)

If they're the original batteries, you need new by now. If not how old are they?

Thanks! Block heater had a bad plug