AAMCO transmission flush - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-20-2009, 01:58 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
AAMCO transmission flush

Does anyone know how much AAMCO charges for a trans flush ( I think they call it Power Surge) on a 7.3L ? Ford dealer charges $190
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 12-21-2009, 05:04 AM
Powerstroke Junkie


 

Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Mayberry, NC
Posts: 8,309
Thanks: 0
Thanked 32 Times in 9 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Why not do it yourself? It can be donme in your driveway.I promise you they would put the wrong fluid it anyway, so hy have them do it? Okay I am in the holiday spirit and I always need typing improvement.
You will need 21-24 quarts of Mercon/Dexron III ATF. This hasn't been made under this name since June of 07, but Napa sells their ATF and it is the old Mercon/Dexron III, and is made by Valvoline.
Changing automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in a SuperDuty truck with 7.3L engine and 4R100 automatic transmission. (Will also work on earlier trucks with E40D transmission.)


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.

1. Things you need to get started:

a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, I would just buy 2 full cases ( 24 quarts)
b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler line. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying! The metal part of your cooler return line is probably 3/8th inch outside diameter (OD) with a ferule on the end of it, so if you can find 7/16th inch inside diameter (ID) tubing, that will probably work great. If you use ½” ID, it will be a loose fit over the ferule and will need a good hose clamp tightened good to prevent it from leaking. So just in case, place a big drain pan under the connection. And some folks have reported they were strong enough to force a 3/8th inch ID tube over the ferule. If you try that, dipping the end of the plastic tubing in very hot water for a few seconds will make the job easier.

c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.

d. If your transmission has ever been worked on by a Ford dealer, you probably have a Magnefine in-line filter in the "rubber" part of the cooler return line, near the front axle. If so, you should replace that filter every time you change the ATF. You can get one from your Ford dealer, or for about $15 from Magnefine Filters--Online Order Form. Your cooler lines are probably 3/8th inch, so you want the 3/8th size Magnefine inline filter.

2. Note: In cool or cold weather, be sure the transmission is up to operating temp before you begin. It’s not supposed to happen, but several members have reported ATF coming out the cooler bypass line instead of the cooler return line if they tried these procedures with a cold transmission. Also, in cool or cold weather, keep the new ATF in the house so it’s around room temperature of about 70º F. when you pour it in the transmission.

3. If your pan has a drain plug, drain the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug. If it doesn't have a drain plug, skip to step #5.

4. Pour 7 quarts of new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube.

5. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler(s). This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the transmission, torque converter and coolers will be pumped out. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission.

6. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.

a. Run the engine at idle RPM until you have around 1.5 gallons in the drain bucket, then you should see a big air bubble in the clear tubing. Ignore tiny bubbles. As soon as you see a big air bubble, shut off the engine. Then double-check the amount of used ATF in the drain bucket. You should have around 1.5 gallons. If you have much less than 1.5 gallons, then you probably killed the engine too soon, so crank the engine and pump out some more old ATF.

b. If you drained the pan in step 3 and poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in step 4, then while the engine is idling in step 6a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.

c. If you poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in an earlier step, then refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF. (That's 13 quarts total so far). If you have not poured in any new ATF yet, then pour in 7 quarts of new ATF, for a total of 7 quarts so far.


7. Repeat steps 6a and 6c until you have poured in a total of 19 quarts of new ATF (7 + 6 + 6).


8. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission with 20 lb/ft torque.

9. Drive the truck several miles to get the transmission up to operating temperature. Then check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.

Note: You should always check the ATF level when the transmission is up to operating temp – not when it’s cold. The cold marks on the dipstick are not very reliable. When first filling the transmission, use the cold zone on the dipstick to get close to the right amount of ATF in the transmission. But for topping off, do it with a hot transmission using the hot area of the dipstick. When you get done, you want the transmission full, but not overfull.

10. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.

11. Congradulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 12-21-2009, 05:13 AM
Viking Heavy Diesel

 

Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 34'.6264 -98.4192
Posts: 20,704
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Whats the deal with Mercon 5. My guy that built my trans told me he would void my warranty if he found anything else other then Mercon 5 in it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 12-21-2009, 05:26 AM
Almostdunfukinwidit


 

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Trempealeau, WI
Posts: 30,946
Thanks: 105
Thanked 88 Times in 82 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCHornet View Post
Why not do it yourself? It can be donme in your driveway.I promise you they would put the wrong fluid it anyway, so hy have them do it? Okay I am in the holiday spirit and I always need typing improvement.
You will need 21-24 quarts of Mercon/Dexron III ATF. This hasn't been made under this name since June of 07, but Napa sells their ATF and it is the old Mercon/Dexron III, and is made by Valvoline.
Changing automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in a SuperDuty truck with 7.3L engine and 4R100 automatic transmission. (Will also work on earlier trucks with E40D transmission.)


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.

1. Things you need to get started:

a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, I would just buy 2 full cases ( 24 quarts)
b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler line. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying! The metal part of your cooler return line is probably 3/8th inch outside diameter (OD) with a ferule on the end of it, so if you can find 7/16th inch inside diameter (ID) tubing, that will probably work great. If you use ½” ID, it will be a loose fit over the ferule and will need a good hose clamp tightened good to prevent it from leaking. So just in case, place a big drain pan under the connection. And some folks have reported they were strong enough to force a 3/8th inch ID tube over the ferule. If you try that, dipping the end of the plastic tubing in very hot water for a few seconds will make the job easier.

c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.

d. If your transmission has ever been worked on by a Ford dealer, you probably have a Magnefine in-line filter in the "rubber" part of the cooler return line, near the front axle. If so, you should replace that filter every time you change the ATF. You can get one from your Ford dealer, or for about $15 from Magnefine Filters--Online Order Form. Your cooler lines are probably 3/8th inch, so you want the 3/8th size Magnefine inline filter.

2. Note: In cool or cold weather, be sure the transmission is up to operating temp before you begin. It’s not supposed to happen, but several members have reported ATF coming out the cooler bypass line instead of the cooler return line if they tried these procedures with a cold transmission. Also, in cool or cold weather, keep the new ATF in the house so it’s around room temperature of about 70º F. when you pour it in the transmission.

3. If your pan has a drain plug, drain the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug. If it doesn't have a drain plug, skip to step #5.

4. Pour 7 quarts of new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube.

5. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler(s). This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the transmission, torque converter and coolers will be pumped out. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission.

6. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.

a. Run the engine at idle RPM until you have around 1.5 gallons in the drain bucket, then you should see a big air bubble in the clear tubing. Ignore tiny bubbles. As soon as you see a big air bubble, shut off the engine. Then double-check the amount of used ATF in the drain bucket. You should have around 1.5 gallons. If you have much less than 1.5 gallons, then you probably killed the engine too soon, so crank the engine and pump out some more old ATF.

b. If you drained the pan in step 3 and poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in step 4, then while the engine is idling in step 6a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.

c. If you poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in an earlier step, then refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF. (That's 13 quarts total so far). If you have not poured in any new ATF yet, then pour in 7 quarts of new ATF, for a total of 7 quarts so far.


7. Repeat steps 6a and 6c until you have poured in a total of 19 quarts of new ATF (7 + 6 + 6).


8. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission with 20 lb/ft torque.

9. Drive the truck several miles to get the transmission up to operating temperature. Then check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.

Note: You should always check the ATF level when the transmission is up to operating temp – not when it’s cold. The cold marks on the dipstick are not very reliable. When first filling the transmission, use the cold zone on the dipstick to get close to the right amount of ATF in the transmission. But for topping off, do it with a hot transmission using the hot area of the dipstick. When you get done, you want the transmission full, but not overfull.

10. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.

11. Congradulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
I just need to correct Kevin on one thing. Motorcraft is the ONLY one that discontinued DexIII Mercon. Its on the shelves everywhere else still labeled the same. I saw 2 rows of it at wally world the other night.

The rest of his info is 100% correct though

To the OP $190 for a trans flush ouch. Ford only charges me 110 for a flush with Mercon SP
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 12-21-2009, 05:27 AM
Almostdunfukinwidit


 

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Trempealeau, WI
Posts: 30,946
Thanks: 105
Thanked 88 Times in 82 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by RRonning1984 View Post
Whats the deal with Mercon 5. My guy that built my trans told me he would void my warranty if he found anything else other then Mercon 5 in it.
Its because seals in the new builds gets broke down by Dex III. The seals in the old builds hold Merc V just fine. My 01 had it in it from the day I bought it
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 12-21-2009, 05:28 AM
Powerstroke Junkie


 

Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Mayberry, NC
Posts: 8,309
Thanks: 0
Thanked 32 Times in 9 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Not again!!!! Ryan I have debated this several times, but in a nutshell.
Every owners manual from 99-03 says NOT TO USE MERCON V IN THE 4R100.
Then all of a sudden Ford releases a TSB that says Mercon V is all of a sudden safe to use in the 4R100, with no explanation as to what made it okay to use. They have yet to answer this questions. Rumors were that the Mobil V was reformulated, because we know nothing with my 4R100 HAS CHANGED!! There was no reformulation. Myself and countless others have done the research and sent emails to the refineries and Mercon V is the same as it always was. So why would Ford do this??????? Same reason they went to the gold coolant in 2003 ( some 2002) they save millions my going to a universal fluid for all their vehicles. Just as the gold doesn't even meet min cavitation requirements right out of the jug, the Mercon V will eventually destroy the seals in the 4R100. This won't happen over night so please don't tell me you have been running it with 0 problems for xxxx miles. By the time the damage is done how many 4r100's will be under warranty? Heck how many right now are still under warranty? This isn't me dreaming this up, it is well documented and easy to research by the internet. I have no reason to lie, LOOK IN YOUR OWNERS MANUAL!!! Now if your trans has been rebuilt it is okay because the newer seals are compatable with Mercon V. otherwise you should only be using Mercon/Dexron III in your 4R100.
I can't believe I just typed this all again, lol!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 12-21-2009, 05:31 AM
Powerstroke Junkie


 

Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Mayberry, NC
Posts: 8,309
Thanks: 0
Thanked 32 Times in 9 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Dave,
What I found was that Ford owned the Mercon label and forbid anyone to use it after June of 2007. I haven't seen any fluid labeled Mercon around where I live. But I did find the Napa ATF says on the side that it is Mercon/Dexron III. Maybe it's different where you are at. I can only speak for what I have found in my hunting. Either way glad you agree with me because this topic seems to really ruffle some feathers.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 12-21-2009, 07:28 AM
Viking Heavy Diesel

 

Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 34'.6264 -98.4192
Posts: 20,704
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
I only have about 10000 miles or less on the new trans. As long as its safe in my rebuild then all is well in my world.

On a side note I finally installed my HMMWV trans cooler. That thing holds a lot of fluid and barley fit even with lots of modifications. I will have to see how well it works out.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 12-21-2009, 07:31 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,767
Thanks: 0
Thanked 73 Times in 68 Posts
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
IMHO.... I think hooking your transmission up to one of those "things" is a HUGE mistake!

As everybody's tranny starts to go bad, the first thing they think is to go for a "flush" and their coming-apart transmission is hooked-up to one of these units. Probably 90% of the connection are made to trannys that are Full of Crud & Metal.

Every hose, fitting, & tank if chocked-full of Death for your transmission (I know, they have filters in them but, are YOU going to risk your transmission that it's new enough, clean enough, to be doing it's job???

NOT ME!

Follow NCHornets' instruction and KNOW you have not poisoned your fluid.

Also, I'm not too sure just how much real Mercon/DexronIII there is out there....

On the surface, the shelves appear to be loaded with it but, if you read carefully, they seem to say they are "compatible" with DexIII fluid.

Is that the same though? I mean, it makes me feel like these "universal" replacement fluids are like that Yellow Prestone coolant and I wouldn't want to put that crap in Anything!

For the thousands of dollars it costs to replace a transmission - Why take the chance???
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 12-21-2009, 07:35 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Somewhere around Atlanta
Posts: 3,342
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I got it done at AAMCO for $130
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors