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  #1  
Old 11-30-2009, 08:38 AM
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Aux Fuse Block

So the reasoning behind what I did this holiday was that I hated having tons of wires running in and out of my dash and firewall for switches and power and hated having them run all the way from the battery. So I decided, install another fuse block.
The fuse block is a Buss from Autozone, about 8 bucks I think. Has 6 30A outputs and a 150A input.
The wire I used was some 4ga stranded which is rated for 70A. I wanted to have something rated for 150A, but that was 1/0ga, and that's just too thick and inflexible for auto applications.
Installed a marine rated Buss circuit breaker rated for 100A in line between power and fuse block.
I tapped power from the front of the battery junction box. It looked it had a 4 or 2ga wire supplying power so I figured I was fine.
Where I mounted the breaker, it was PERFECT. It was just in front of the trailer relay block, and already had one hole, and just drilled another, and it was a beautiful fit.
The fuse block got put behind the under dash cover panel (the one you remove to get the real fuse block), and bolted onto the metal member about where your shins would be, right in the center of it. I'll get pictures of that later today.
Here's the batt junction box and breaker.


The electrical tape over the batt junc box was because the air box I made had been touching that hot post and arcing. So I taped over that spot on the air box and then on the post.
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2009, 02:28 PM
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I was really happy with the way the whole thing came out.
Here's the fuse block.

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Old 11-30-2009, 06:52 PM
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That's a good idea, my electrical system is quickly becoming a nightmare.

1/0 isn't too hard to work with if you get something with lots of strands (3000+). Welding cable is a good option as it will be flexible and have a good jacket.

Looks like you are just drawing 22a, so the 4ga is overkill for now.
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Old 11-30-2009, 07:08 PM
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I got my wire at Lowe's and their 1/0 didn't have that many at all. That and they didn't have any connectors big enough for 1/0.
Now what is welding cable? I've done some wire and stick welding in ag class but that's it.

No, it's just 2A.
Just a cb that transmits at 15 watts @ 12 volts, so technically 1.25 amps
The other fuse is for the fuel pump on my 100 gallon tank in the bed but it's not wired cause I was gonna redo the wiring for it too.
So it's more overkill than you know
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Old 11-30-2009, 08:44 PM
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That explains it. The wire you got at Lowe's is probably for AC and has a thin jacket. It will work, but might eventually crack as it isn't meant to hold up to the abuse of a moving vehicle. Automotive DC wire will have a thicker jacket that will hold up better to heat and chemicals found under the hood. Welding cable is basically the same, just has different markings and can sometimes be found cheaper through local welding supply stores.

I would try to get some wire that will hold up better perhaps from a car audio store, Walmart or welding supply. Walmart usually has cheep amplifier installation kits that would have the wire and ring terminals. I would also recommend running the wire from the fuse directly to the battery or alternator rather than piggybacking off the factory fuse box.
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:41 AM
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Actually it had a pretty thick jacket but it was stiff alright.
There are multiple welding supply stores. I had never thought of that and will probably wind up doing that.
Why run it straight off the battery or alternator? Isn't that where the batt junc box gets it's power?
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