WW, foil delete, glow plugs, up pipes, write up. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:46 AM
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WW, foil delete, glow plugs, up pipes, write up.

Its long but a good read.

Well this past week (end) I changed out a handful of parts on my truck, a 2000 CC PSD with 170k miles. Wicked wheel to get rid of turbo surge, glow plugs and I replaced my up pipes and new Chevy doughnut gaskets, I also removed the foil from the intercooler tube.
A few things to note during this process. The wicked wheel does produce more noise, I don’t mind it, its definitely very high pitched. Be careful removing the foil on the intercooler tube. That crap is sharp and will cut you…..a few times. I used a wire wheel, it worked pretty well to remove the adheasive. Glow plugs were easy to install, I went ahead ohmed my old ones out once they were removed. All of them were open/bad; no wonder that thing wouldn’t start. Once I did started the truck you could hear the GPR “click” like it had never clicked before you could also see the amp meter drop a little from the glow plugs actually pulling some current. The truck started right up.
Now for the fun part, replacing the up pipes and gaskets. I knew I had a pretty bad exhaust leak thanks to my bad glow plugs. Whenever I had to start the truck cold there was smoke blowing everywhere under the hood. I had a buddy look and he could see the smoke coming from the up pipe 2 to 1 collector (not sure of the real name of the 2 to 1 pipe). Sitting in traffic I could also smell exhaust in the cab. Once I removed the turbo I went ahead and grabbed the 2 into 1 collector that attaches to the turbo. It was very very lose. Clearly that was not sealing. So I removed the 2 to 1 and could tell that my up pipes were much worn. I bought new up pipes, bolts and the Chevy doughnut seals. I put the new up pipes on the truck loosely. I then put the new Ford bolts and Chevy doughnuts on the 2 to 1 collector and slid them over each up pipe. Put turbo back in place and then aligned the 2 to 1 to the turbo (this part sucked for me). Once up top was snugged up and in place I went under the truck to get to the bolts from below. I seated the up pipes to exhaust manifolds (easy) and with about 3 feet in extensions I started tightening the up pipes at the 2 to 1 collector. ALL WAS GOING WELL THEN ONE OF THE FORD BOLTS STRIPPE3D OUT ABOUT 3/8 INCHES OF THREAD IN MY 2 TO 1 COLLECTOR!!!!!!!!!! I was so pissed/bummed out; I knew something had to go wrong. I should have noticed this before that the Chevy doughnuts are significantly thicker that the ford doughnuts. So some food for thought, get new and LONGER bolts if you use the Chevy doughnuts. I didn’t read anywhere online that anyone else had this problem. Maybe it was just poor casting in my 2 to 1 collector. Went to NAPA bought a longer bolt, put it in and prayed that it would snug up. It did. So put everything back together and took the truck for a spin…..ITS A WHOLE NEW TRUCK. I have all my low end torque back. I think I was losing a good amount of boost due to my huge exhaust leak and im hoping for better MPG’s. It’s no longer a dog off the line. Many people say you can see soot around your up pipes and know you have a leak. Well I didn’t have any noticeable soot as my truck doesn’t blow a ton of smoke unless im towing. So maybe on a cold day, disconnect the ACC switch power to your GPR, crank it over a few times and see if you get any smoke under the hood. If you do, it might be time to change your up pipes and gaskets.

That’s all I have for now.

Orion
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Old 11-30-2009, 10:13 AM
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Update. After a 500 mile road trip my up pipes started leaking again. I tightened them again. Im guessing they will eventually stop leaking.
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:06 PM
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any better MPG even with the leak?
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:31 PM
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Are they New Stock up-pipes? I hope they stop leaking, that would suck after that investment and they leak again. next fall Im going to do some bellowed up-pipes from international.... Good info on the bolt thing tho
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:31 AM
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I would have to say after one tank it did go up. Typically on the highway 70-80 I would get 15. I got 16.76 out of this tank and for those speeds I cant complain. Not to mention I was pushing the pedal due to the new HP and Torque, but towards the end of the road trip I could tell I lost some boost. Mainly in the 1400-2000 rpm range it showes the most. To test for a leak I unbolted the red wire that feeds power to the GPR when to turn on your keys, had my wife crank it over till smoke was coming out the tail pipe and I saw a good amount from the passenger up pipe and a little from the drivers side. I tightened them up and now ill wait and see if I need to retighten. The drivers side is easy with about 3' of extensions. Passenger side is a different story. The lower bolt you can get to from under the truck. It takes a few mins but can be done. The upper bolt I went thru the fender skirt in the wheel well. I unscrewed the 8mm? bolt with large washer and pulled the skirt back. This was not easy at all, that skirt is tough. I then slid a 2x6 between the skirt and frame rail to hold the skirt out so I could get to work. It worked pretty well. This is with the tire still on. I would bet if your PSD has over 140k and original up pipes its leaking. My .02. Its easy to check on a cold day. They are new ford up pipes and new chevy doughnuts. There was a little amount of play when I put the doughnut on the up pipe. I thought about wrapping 1 layer of that metal duct tape so it was a snug fit from the get go. Maybe I should have, or some of that high temp RTV crap. Lets just hope they tighten up. I was very suprised how a leak could effect low end torque and hp, which would effect MPG's. In the end it makes sence.
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Old 12-01-2009, 07:12 AM
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I see bellowed up pipes in your future, better to just get away from those doughnuts, they are a real pain!!

NCH
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