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2002 ford f350 7.3L will start but won't run long!

4K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  GETFURIOUS 
#1 ·
I have a 2002 ford f350 7.3L that I'm having issues with. I've replaced all 8 injectors, put a new alternator, new batteries, changed out the ignition locking coil, changed out the cps sensor, replaced the efi, put a new fuel filter, new fuel pump, cleaned out filters on fuel sending unit inside the diesel tank. I'm trying to finish up college and this is my only transportation.

i can get it started and it runs but won't run longer than five minutes. it'll either shut itself off completely or it run extremely rough like its running on a few cylinders. when it happens on the highway i lose complete power,it'll have enough power to keep it rolling but not enough to climb on speed.
All the help is extremely grateful for.
 
#2 ·
Maybe the under valve cover harness or the harness going to the 2x2 inch plug on the driver valve cover?
 
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#4 ·
I did replace both harnesses in the valve cover since i was replacing the injectors and had everything off, I decided to replace the old harness since i had the quarter fix in them.
I do have a code reader but it won't give me any codes for my truck. iI have a buddy that had a scanner built for the power stroke diesel but it got stollen out of his shop.
 
#5 ·
ipr??

i know mine would did that once, and a second time it wouldnt start until it cooled down....

a scanner such as a elm adapter and androind phone would tell you real quick. any check engine light when it does it?
 
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#8 ·
When you go to restart the truck after it dies, how long do you have to wait or will it crank right up? Long time to crank initially?

What do you mean you replaced the efi? Also, the ignition key coil? Guessing you meant cylinder right?

You say you are having issues, can you provide this relative to the timeline of the rather long list of fixes you have done? Did you encounter this problem first, then throw injectors, fuel pump, and other things at it? Or was this a case of you replaced injectors and then these problems arose? This is not clear in your post. Also, why did you replace your fuel pump, clean the in tank screens, and the fuel pressure regulator? Sounds like you are convinced it is a fuel delivery issue, I presume you checked fuel pressure first?

One other place that crap can build up in your fuel line is at the heads where your fuel lines from the bowl enter the fuel rails, that one is nearly free to do, so since you have been cleaning up your fuel system, you might as well hit those too, but that generally doesn't cause a shutdown, just rough running/low power.

Cannot stress how useful a REAL code reader that can see the PIDs for these trucks is. Not just the auto part store OBD2 code reader that only looks for DTC codes, but one that allows you to monitor live data from your ICP, IPR, etc. You could watch a half dozen parameters and narrow down your problem pretty quickly. I use AutoEnginuity, but I have heard good things about some newer android apps here on the forums, Torque Pro and some others. I hate to think you are throwing all these parts (including injectors?) at a problem without having a solid diagnosis. The diagnostic tools are not cheap (maybe 400 for AutoEnginuity, another 100 for a good 100psi diesel rated fuel pressure gauge and the fittings to adapt it to measure pressure at the fuel bowl and then alternatively at each head's test port.) That said, if your issue was there before you bought the injectors, and they have not cured it, you could easily have paid for this test equipment and much more.

Also do you have any gauges on the truck? If yes, are you seeing high egts before it shuts down?

One simple thing that would rule out a multitude of issues: after the truck dies, before you try to start it again, pull the plug from the top of the HPOP reservoir, see if it is full of oil (within an inch or so of the top), and if the oil is at all foamy.
 
#9 ·
i had two injectors that went out which made me decide to replace all of them. My full pump completely shut down before i put the injectors in it. i cleaned the filters in the tank when i replaced the full pump, considering i picked up some trash full down in corpus a couple weeks before.


on restarting my truck. if i shut the key off and restart it it'll fire right up, but if it dies and i go to rerank the engine back up it won't start, it'll just crank.

I have cleaned out the full lines along with replaced the o'rings on each full line leaving the full bowl to the heads (a total of 6 o'rings) along with the return lines too.

I was convinced it was a full delivery issue but I'm second guessing it.

I do not have any extra gauges on the truck other the whats on the cluster but i will be adding four gauges in the near future reading amps, and full pressure for sure.

Im going to be sending the truck to diesel engine and injection in the next day or two to have them run diagnostics on the truck. like i said in the first post I'm trying to finish up school and have to drive an hour in a half to my classes, i have a hard time borrowing a vehicle considering i live a good was out in the country.
 
#10 ·
Before you go chasing gremlins at expensive shops, this sounds a bit like a mode of CPS failure. The fact that the simple act of turning the key off and then trying to crank makes it work makes me wonder as that has been my exact experience with CPS going kaput. I suppose it could also be fuel pump as turning key off and then back on cycles the fuel pump, but given you have a new pump, cleaned everything, unless you messed up, I don't think that is it. I know you changed out the CPS, but there are tons of junk ones out there, especially 3rd party ones from the auto parts stores. I have definitely received bad CPS that didn't work right out of the box. Also, I recently re-read everything I could find on the CPS as I need a new one (just used one of my 2 spares) and can no longer get the original black one from International. Get another CPS and just give it a shot, you should carry a spare anyhow, if that isn't the problem keep the one you pull out as a spare. Get a genuine Motorcraft one... yeah, it might not be as good fuel economy as some of the others out there, but it should WORK and should therefore rule out CPS (or solve problem)

Fuel pressure gauges are wonderful, even if you just use a cheap test style one with some hose run out under the hood into the cab to do a 5 min diagnostic WOT run. I think the nice in-cab fuel pressure gauges run around $200-$250 including the pressure transducer, the diagnostic gauge for occasional use runs less than $60.
 
#11 ·
^ yup thats some good advice.. $30-40 part and a small amount of your time could fix this whole mess
 
#12 ·
ill pick up another cps sensor, i do have two extra in my truck but don't know if there good or not i swamped em out when i had an issue and it didn't fix it before so i keep them one i took out. ill definitely go buy a new one and try that today. hopefully it'll fix it. if not diesel engine and injection will be seeing me tomorrow for running tests
 
#13 ·
Sounds like the right plan.. if that doesn't fix it, someone is gonna have to fully diagnosis it anyway
 
#15 ·
Alright i haven't been on here in a couple months.

My truck is still giving me issues, it'll start but it won't run long still not longer than 5 min at the most sometimes. i have picked up a different fuel tank another fuel sending unit, another fuel pump, along with had diesel engine and injection run tests on my truck.
i have replaced the cps sensor, fuel pressure regulator, fuel sending unit, fuel pump, fuel tank, screens inside the tank, blowed out all the fuel lines to and from the tank, cleaned the fuel bowl, cleaned the fuel pressure regulator, replaced both batteries, the alternator.

Diesel Engine and injection did run diagnostics on my truck and came back with low compression. I also had a friend call in a favor from someone how specialized in 7.3's and told me it compression wouldn't do what its doing, considering i can start the truck and it run perfect for a couple min and than completely die like its ruling out of fuel or the fuel was cut off from it. i really need this truck up and running and having hard time with school right now. any help is deeply appreciated.
 
#16 ·
SO.....I HAVE A QUESTION?....

DID ANYBODY AT THE SHOP CHECK THE FUEL PRESSURE WHILE IT WAS THERE?....AND WAS IT IN THE RANGE THAT IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE IN?....

ALSO.....I HAD A FRIEND WHO HAD A SIMILAR (BUT DIFFERENT) PROBLEM AS YOURS.....AND IT WAS DETERMINED THAT LOW OIL LEVEL IN THE MOTOR WAS CAUSING THE PROBLEM.....WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME THAT YOU CHECKED YOUR OIL LEVEL IN YOUR MOTOR?....
 
#17 ·
i changed the oil when i replaced all my injectors, and the fuel pressure was readying at 55 i put a spacer behind it and bumped it up to 65 pounds of pressure i just ordered a new kit for the fuel pressure along with a dash mount gauge for it.

with reading up on a couple things with the year model truck, i was pulling a code p2115 for the throttle not having enough electrical current to it. could this possibly cause it to run the way it does?
 
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