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bellowed up pipes, ccv mod and new boots going on. tips tricks?

3K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  Corey@CNCFAB 
#1 ·
Hello I am getting ready to install new bellowed up pipes, the CCV mod from Riffraff and their CAC complete boot kit. I am looking to hear from those who have changed their up pipes of any tips or tricks to make it go easier. My truck is an 03 7.3 with 264k. Also wanting to know if there is anything else that I should do while I am in there.

I am thinking about doing the 6637 kit from Riffraff at the same time. I put a drop in K&N filter in when I bought the truck but have heard that is a poor choice for a turbo diesel. I would hate for that filter to cause me nightmares down the road. thoughts? Seems like the $100 would be worth the piece of mind.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
#8 ·
You don't HAVE to pull the turbo. I just did mine a few months ago and didn't pull the turbo. The first time doing it is the worst because you don't know the tips and tricks and it takes much longer. If I had to do it again I could do it in 1.5 hours. I used to be a mechanic though so it wasn't so bad for me.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Yeah I have been looking at the wheel options. I am not looking for power gains but to make it more efficient. Don't get me wrong power in the process is a great thing ��

I found a few kits with the 360 parts but not without the whole rebuild kit. Looks like around $200 for the wheel and the 350 rebuild kit.
 
#7 ·
The kc wheel is available also. I have that in the 66 version and I like it. You can get it from @Corey@CNCFAB
He can get you the rebuild kit also.
The up pipes suck. Don't bother trying to remove the bolts for the up pipes to the manifolds. Just tighten them tell they break. Leave the turbo, bolts at the manifold and the bolts to the drivers side up pipe loose. Then get the v band on. Then tighten everything back up.
 
#9 ·
Removing the turbo makes it easier though.

But a can of pb blaster and soak every clamp/bolt you want to come off. Do this for several days before tear down

I found cutting the old collector off below the old pipes was easiest way to remove that piece.

Easiest way for me was to attach passenger side up pipe to the collector then slide it in. You can then install the driver side one from underneath with a couple if extensions. Or since you have a buddy whichever way is easier. I had to do it by myself.

Might consider new v band clamps as well. The bands on mine were coming off.
 
#10 ·
they summed it all up in a nut shell except 1 thing ..1 a couple of 12 packs of beer ..!!!or a number or 4 .. ...JUST TAKE YOUR TIME ..and if its ur first time.. give your self twice the amount of time to get it done..that way u wont rush..as for some on here can get the turbo off in 20 to 30 min.. once u have done it a couple times it gets easier ...GOOD LUCK AND WELCOME ..and what BLUKE said about COREY ,,..stand up guy ...!!!!
 
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#12 ·
Thank you for all of the replies and suggestions. I was told to get the 7+7 billet wheel since most of my miles are highway, of course that's from the guy who sells them. has anyone here used the 7+7 wheel? Seems pretty reasonable for a complete kit with a billet wheel.

Here is what I am looking at.

Powerstroke 7 3 Turbo Billet Compressor Wheel 7 7 Upgrade Rebuild Kit GTP38 TP38 | eBay

I went ahead and ordered my 6637 kit from Riff Raff.
 
#14 ·
No one has run the 7+7 wheel. 14 blades seems overkill.

The riffraff wheel is 6+6 and it is obnoxious as far as noise goes. Top end is good, but my dads BD wheel is way better for spool up and noise
 
#15 · (Edited)
I don't know if noise is an issue for you or not, but you already know how loud the K&N filter is and the 6637 will probably be about the same. After owning a 6.7 I got very spoiled with how quiet it was. My truck had a K&N on it when I bought it and I wanted it quieter. I installed a Motorcraft Severe Duty Air Filter and it really tamed down the noise from the intake. The air flow on the severe duty filter is very good.
I had a Ford Tech install my up pipes. He said that the ones I bought from Corey (CNC Fabrication) were absolutely "hands down" the best and easiest he'd ever installed. He won't use anything but them now.

Good luck with your install. You have a nice looking truck.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I was actually looking for a little more noise, not obnoxious but I like the sound of a wicked wheel. I just have a drop in K&N so I didn't notice a difference from the stock filter. I am not big on the air intake noise but I have the 6637 on its way. I hope it will not be too annoying
This is my first diesel and I do not really know the difference in the compressor wheels and am learning as I go I am confused someone said the 7+7 is 14 and that would be overkill and obnoxiously loud The KC is a 6+8 which also equals 14 if I am understanding this correctly. It also says it is quieter than the wicked wheel which kinda eliminates that option for me and is quite a bit more expensive to boot.

Thanks for the compliment on my truck. It is a work in progress. I absolutely love the truck and feel once I get all the little bugs worked out, then it will be perfect for my needs
 
#18 ·
The first time you tow anything for more than an hour you will change you mind on wanting it louder.

Trust me. I was the same way.
 
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#19 ·
Since you're running the stock air box you really aren't getting much noise from the intake. Believe me, putting a 6637 on it is going to give you possibly a little more than you bargained for. I put one on a Cummins I used to own and regretted it, but then, the noise just drowned out all the rattles and squeaks from the Dodge body, suspension and cheap interior materials. (don't mean to bash the Dodge, its just the truth)
Now, regarding the Wicked Wheel. I have probably one of the quietest air boxes on the market, and the Wicked Wheel defeats it easily. The high pitched whine is just something that is hard to kill I guess. If you like to hear that, then you'll like the Wicked Wheel. Personally, if I had it to do over, I wouldn't waste my money as the power difference was negligible, however it did eliminate the occasional turbo surge that I had when I wasn't running in the "stock" setting on my tuner.
Good luck with your mods. This is the interesting thing about owning these older trucks. You can afford to play with them as things aren't terribly expensive, and we're well beyond warranty worries.
 
#20 ·
HOLY MOLY----- We got the turbo out last night and it came out basically in two pieces......

The bolts that hold the exhaust side to the turbo are gone all but one that's broken off in the housing. Anybody ever seen this happen before? The only thing that was holding it together was the downpipe. Black soot like you wouldn't believe back there. One side of my up pipes just slid out of the y pipe it wasn't held in place by anything but the weight.

I am hoping getting that broken bolt out of the housing doesn't cause me too much drama. I see in videos most people are putting the two factory bolts back in to hold the turbo to the pedestal, I also see some saying it is a must to change those with a turbo reinstall kit. Is there are reason to change those bolts? I have everything else in the reinstall kit but the bolts and would hate to buy a kit when I only need the two bolts.

We are working on it some every day as my buddy has alot going on, hopefully it'll be finished by Thursday.

I can only imagine this truck will be a new beast with all of this fixed.
 
#21 ·
Ya it's common for the center section bolts to rattle loose. I'm missing one right now too. I'm tired of replacing them so in going to go to the stealer ship and get the updated bolts
 
#23 ·
I'm not sure. Email barder and see if they know.
 
#24 ·
The 360* thrust washer doesn't make more boost, it help the turbo last longer at higher levels of boost.

I've had my turbo up to about 34-35 psi.
 
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