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Oil Leak 2002 7.3
Where is a common place for the 7.3 to sprout an oil leak? I have a 2002 F350 4x4 with the 7.3 that I use for heavy hauling, it only has 107,000 miles but has sprung an oil leak. It drips from the transmission (flywheel) inspection cover, but appears to be coming from up higher and leaking down and around. The leak is not terrible (yet) maybe 2-3 drops in 15 mins at idle, but will have to be fixed soon as most of the loads I pull are in excess of $100,000.00 in value and I am certain the customers dont want engine oil on their pretty new boat. Any ideas? Common area for the oil leaks? Please dont tell me it is the rear main seal...... Thanks guys, Thomas
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Is the valley pan wet. It could be your hpop seals I just replaced mine fills your valley pan then leaks down and drops at t.c. inspection cover. If you back up and park with your front end lower than the back does it leak from the front of your motor if so. You eliminate rear seal. Sounds ridicules but leaks can be hard to locate.
Last edited by Mikes7.3; 02-15-2007 at 10:31 PM. |
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I had 110k on mine when they started leaking.
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It's more than likely not a main seal it's probably your turbo mount seals or theres also two orange hoses right behind your fuel filter housing those come loose over time and are an easy fix they are probably full of grease so you have to clean them off then tighten them up (8mm)socket as for the turbo O-rings that's better for a shop to do I know how you feel my truck is a 2001 7.3 F-350 and had the same leak but I tightend up my hoses I explained and it seemed to take care of it look under the 7.3 tech file and you can get a better explanation of all this not to mention other guys on here will also help you out
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99-03 7.3 oil leak diagnosis
The link above is a write up by Mark, you will probably find it helpfull. Gord. |
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I looked at the places you all suggested, and the front of the vally is dry as can be. The back of the vally however has a large puddle of oil right under the turbo and you can see where the oil has been draining out of the hole in the block just above the trans bellhousing. So then I am to assume this is the turbo orings? Is this a shop repair only? I am an ASE master tech, but I worked in a GM shop for 15 years and never worked on a Ford until now. Somewhere on the forum I think I saw a link to a step by step instruction for the turbo oring repair, but now I cant seem to find it. If someone could point me in the right direction it would help. So your thoughts, is this most likely the orings or could it simply be the orange tubes that you speak of? If I were to take this to a Ford dealer for repair, what would the oring upper and lower repair cost? How many hours labor for r&r turbo? While I am in there should I put a whicked wheel in? Thanks guys!!!!!
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considering your tech background it's probably something you can handle but it wouldn't be a bad idea to read a bit about it. marc is our go to guy for deeper input he has a great write-up on this in the (forum) 7.3tech file you can even send him a private message. as far as a wicked wheel I feel it's personal opinion I don't think it does a whole lot but it does give you more turbo whistle,, maybe quicker spool up I was gonna do it but a few people told me it was a waste of money for performance but it sounds good especially if you have exhaust turbo back hope everything works out good for you
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go to 7.3 tech file "repair help"
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Turbo Pedistal Oring RnR
--------------------------------------------------------------------------- The link above is a write up by Maintain, thanks Maintain it's a good one. http://www.dfuser.com/Install%20Guid...ting%20EBV.pdf --------------------------------------------------------------------------- This link will give you a little more info as well, with a few drawings as well. As for the WW, I have one in my truck, along with the ATS vented housing. The reason I went that route was to eliminate any chance of turbo surge pulling my 5th wheel. You don't need both, but it was out any ways so I did both. I find that it helped my EGTs, gave me a quicker spool up, and I can hit 30 psi of boost now with the DP in. I find the low end power is smoother, and I do believe it helped the mpg, not much but some. And I very much like the sound as well. Hope that helps answer your questions, and the links should walk you through it. Depending on your ability and resources, shouldn't take more than 3-4 hrs, as long as everything is ready to go. Gord. |
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