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  #1  
Old 07-20-2009, 03:20 PM
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coolant question

Ok, i know that i need to use green coolant. Dieselmans page reads that walmart super tech is ok. Now,it also states dont mix colors.
This coolant is ethylene glycol and diethylene glycolas 2main ingredients.It statesto use this. Is this coolant ok? it also stated that to use low silicate(what ever that is)(what is it)
the supertech coolant does not mention that.
It states on the bottle mixes with all coolants. is this ok?
heres the last sentence?i want to make sure i wont cause cavitation...
Ford does not recommend using propylene glycol-based coolants in any of their vehicles, or "universal" coolants that claim to be a replacement for any color antifreeze. They also have not approved the use of any organic acid tecnology (OAT) extended life coolants (ELC) in the PowerStroke cooling system.
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  #2  
Old 07-20-2009, 03:26 PM
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Wow! That's a lot of ?s.

I have been told to use the "old fashion green stuff" with Ford's additive. I use test strips from NAPA to make sure all is OK and I won't have any cavitation issues.

Stay away from universal type coolants. There has been a lot said on here about this. Search.
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:29 PM
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just get straight green (non extended life)from ford or where motorcraft coolant is sold. mix with distiled water and add the addtive and you will be gtg
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:30 PM
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im using gold...i added about half a gollon of red yeterday cuz thats all i could get. am i ok?
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bockhold View Post
just get straight green (non extended life)from ford or where motorcraft coolant is sold. mix with distiled water and add the addtive and you will be gtg
Yeah....what he said!
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  #6  
Old 07-20-2009, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcducote View Post
im using gold...i added about half a gollon of red yeterday cuz thats all i could get. am i ok?
I'd flush!
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcducote View Post
im using gold...i added about half a gollon of red yeterday cuz thats all i could get. am i ok?
um no. red and gold are not compatible with each other. you will need to flush the system out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank View Post
I'd flush!
agreed

also off brand straight green is good also
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:39 PM
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Here's a procedure I copied from another site. I am sure it is on this site too. Ignore the product descriptions. I just wanted you to know just how complicated it is to flush properly.


7.3L Power Stroke Coolant Changing Instructions

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You'll need the following:

4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate. In agreement with International who made your engine, I recommend a conventional coolant with SCA, or a pre-charged conventional coolant for the early 99's (pre-2/2/99). For all other 99-up PSD's I recommend a Heavy Duty ELC. But the choice of coolant is yours.

SCA (if using conventional un-charged coolant). Amount depends on the SCA maker (usually 3-4 pints).

Up to 20 gallons of distilled water (you may use less if your tap water quality is excellent requiring less flushing).

A Prestone flush kit with "T".

1-1/2 foot of 5/8" hose (to go on flush "T").

A new thermostat gasket.

Possibly a new thermostat, new coolant filter (if you've added one), or any hoses or hose clamps that you think may need replacing.

Note: A children's small plastic wading pool works good for a catch container. Some fit between the front wheels perfectly.


Flushing procedure:

Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.

Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).

Drain radiator at pet-**** (bottom left-hand driver's side) into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.

Remove lower radiator hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.

Remove driver's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

Remove passenger's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container (this is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter).

Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.

Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it's ok if it leaks a little while flushing).

Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.

Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.

Close radiator pet-****.

Remove heater hose at passenger's side coming off the engine (just below intercooler tube).

Install that heater hose to one end of the flush "T".

Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T".

Install the remaining end of the 5/8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from.

*Note*: You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired.

Install garden hose onto flush "T".

Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflushes) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.

With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint).

Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.

Drain radiator at pet****, remove both block plugs, remove lower radiator hose.

Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose to engine.

Close radiator pet****, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).

Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator pet****, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator pet****, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.

Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator pet****, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator pet**** permanently.

Install both block plugs and tighten permanently.

(You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad).

Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket.

Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.

If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer's instructions (usually 3-4 pints).

Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.

Replace degas bottle cap.

Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of vehicle.

Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help you later to determine if the thermostat is operating or if there is air left in the system.

Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.

Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle. (this may take several days).

Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.

This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. If in cold climates, it is always best to have the freeze protection tested with a quality refractometer.

Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use.
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  #9  
Old 07-20-2009, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank View Post
Here's a procedure I copied from another site. I am sure it is on this site too. Ignore the product descriptions. I just wanted you to know just how complicated it is to flush properly.

or go to ford and i think its around 130ish for a flush. i know cause i had to do like 2 or 3 last year
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bockhold View Post
or go to ford and i think its around 130ish for a flush. i know cause i had to do like 2 or 3 last year
$130 sounds like a deal. Heck...get two of 'em while you're there!
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