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post #1 of 15 Old 07-05-2009, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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serp belt ???'s

did a search but couldn't find what I'm seeking.

my old belt jumped 1 rib off and shredded one side. replaced it with a new belt 2 weeks ago and it did the same thing. No loose pulleys, so what else should I look at? all the pulleys look to be in good alignment.

Thanks, Tom.

mods thus far:
1704 tuner gizmo, BHAF, 4" DP to 5" stack, FPR w.109 shim, disconnected wastegate, plethora of gauges, 10k mod w/ 20k resistor (removed after it jacked up my connector), 17*HPOP (not really), hybrid sticks (I wish), some kinda badass turbo (another lie), mega body damage (that's gospel).
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-05-2009, 09:15 PM
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Inspect the belt tensioner assembly closely. Most likely it is worn out and needs replaced. It costs 65 dollars at pretty much any local parts store. It is held on by one bolt.

Just remove belt and the bolt. The assembly should come right off. Then install the new assembly and belt. If you have not thought about it. Now would be a good time to get the upper radiator hose that goes around the belt. I believe the napa number is 9066.


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post #3 of 15 Old 07-06-2009, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks big, I'll check into a tensioner assy., + I already did the hose upgrade.

I've got a feeling Gates makes the best belts, but what's your input?

Tom.

mods thus far:
1704 tuner gizmo, BHAF, 4" DP to 5" stack, FPR w.109 shim, disconnected wastegate, plethora of gauges, 10k mod w/ 20k resistor (removed after it jacked up my connector), 17*HPOP (not really), hybrid sticks (I wish), some kinda badass turbo (another lie), mega body damage (that's gospel).
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-06-2009, 12:05 PM
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i bought one of those damn gatorback belts did the same thing you said in a month what a piece of sh!t
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-17-2009, 01:03 PM
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Any update dub? Just bought a F350 and it is doing the same thing. Also what after market tensioner does everyone recomend? I took my truck to a diesel repair shop and they said I have a bad tensioner. The dealer wants $140 for one. TIA!

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post #6 of 15 Old 08-21-2009, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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yea replacing the tensioner solved my problems. I got one from the salvage yard for $20; looked for a low mileage setup.

mods thus far:
1704 tuner gizmo, BHAF, 4" DP to 5" stack, FPR w.109 shim, disconnected wastegate, plethora of gauges, 10k mod w/ 20k resistor (removed after it jacked up my connector), 17*HPOP (not really), hybrid sticks (I wish), some kinda badass turbo (another lie), mega body damage (that's gospel).
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-23-2009, 07:44 AM
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I bought a Dayco tensioner from Advance for $65. Works great so far.

2000 F350 XLT SCLB 4x4
PHP 6 Pos. Chip
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-23-2009, 07:55 AM
OCONUS

 
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OK, I have to ask... Whats the deal with the upper radiator hose (upgrade)? Are they known to just go bad, or need replaced after so many miles?

Thanks

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post #9 of 15 Old 08-23-2009, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenixrhino2 View Post
OK, I have to ask... Whats the deal with the upper radiator hose (upgrade)? Are they known to just go bad, or need replaced after so many miles?

Thanks
also interested in this, have yet to hear of it. thanks.

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post #10 of 15 Old 08-25-2009, 06:50 AM
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The factory hose runs through the belt requiring removal to change the belt. The "upgraded" hose runs around the belt so you can change your belt without removal of the radiator hose.

2000 F350 XLT SCLB 4x4
PHP 6 Pos. Chip
DIY 6637 Induction
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