How to fix rear fenderwell rust, and install flares? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
99-03 7.3L Exterior Discussion Body and Accessories Talk

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 10-02-2012, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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How to fix rear fenderwell rust, and install flares?

Im looking at buying this truck and the above the rear fender well there is rust. Its not through, but bubbled on the paint and you can see brown. Whats the best way to fix this? We know its a common problem, so it may never actually go away, but at least halt it the best we can. I would also be doing flares, so whats in the process of installing them too? Do you have to drill the body?
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post #2 of 6 Old 10-02-2012, 05:43 PM
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Check out my sig pic. I had rust all over my fender wells, I introduced my good friend Dr. Angle Grinder and my best buddy Herculiner to the rust and took care of business! Not to mention a couple shots of Rust-Converter to finish up the job. I'm no pro by any means, but I do gotta say it looks pretty good! also, nobody smashes their door on your truck anymore when you are parked at the grocery store! Also, thats a good thing to talk with the salesman about when you are buying the truck... how much money your going to have to spend on repairing the rust on the vehicle (great way to talk them down!) Best of luck to you. I would stay away from fender flares if you are anywhere near the rust-belt, they tend to hold salt and road grime and create a massive amount of rust....

'01 7.3L PSD SCLB
Rubber:Ballistic Jester 18x9, 325/65/18 Falken Wildpeak A/T's << LOVE THEM!!
Motor:CCV mod, Zoodad mod, Edge Evolution CTS, Coolant Filter, Cat ELC, Dual Optima Yellowtop Batteries, 6697 mod
Suspension: Polyurethane sway bar link kit, 6" lift

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post #3 of 6 Old 10-02-2012, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Okay man. Thanks. Its a local truck and yeah I would use that as leverage but now he just told me there was a 5th installed and the guy never used it. I dunno whats what but that could be trans issues?
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post #4 of 6 Old 10-02-2012, 11:05 PM
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Mine has a 5th in it also, and they definitely used it, and I most certainly don't have any trans damage. Just smell the dipstick for the tranny, if it smells burnt run like hell, if not (which it probably won't) do some more investigating. Another couple key spots to talk them down on, are oil leaks (just about a guarantee the area where the dipstick meets the pan leaks like a siv, not a big deal but you can make it out to be) another good talk down point is oil leaks that look like a rear main seal is out. 99% of the time, just valve cover needs a little tightening. The biggest thing is that when you start it, see how much smoke comes out the tailpipe. Mine smokes pretty decent for about 3 minutes on a 60 degree day, not sure if its normal or not but it seems fine to me. Flip the oil fill cap upside down, and put it on top of the filler. If the blowby pushes the cap off, walk away. If the cap simply vibrates off, should be a decent motor! check the differentials and the transfer case fill and drain plugs, if it is at a dealership then there should be no dirt in the allen holes on the plugs, and definitive tool marks from having to remove the plugs to check fluids. Another good area is the exhaust manifolds. bring a flashlight and look very very closely at the very last bolts on the exhaust manifolds (holding it to the cylinder head) if the ones closest to the exhaust exit look like they are melted, or are loose they definitely used that truck to pull, and they pulled hard. Those bolts being loose or melted indicate very high EGT temps, which are a big no-no. If they allow jack the front wheels up in the air and check the bearings by wiggling the tires side to side/up and down and if it feels like there is alot of play, bearings are likely needed ($300+ dollars each side) Other than that, its up to you to decide what you think it is worth. But these are all areas that I covered when I went to talk down my truck. I got a $10,500 truck for $8,000 from the dealership because I told them about all the repairs the truck needed that they missed and what it was going to cost me to have them all repaired. Did the work myself for $500 in parts.

Good luck!

'01 7.3L PSD SCLB
Rubber:Ballistic Jester 18x9, 325/65/18 Falken Wildpeak A/T's << LOVE THEM!!
Motor:CCV mod, Zoodad mod, Edge Evolution CTS, Coolant Filter, Cat ELC, Dual Optima Yellowtop Batteries, 6697 mod
Suspension: Polyurethane sway bar link kit, 6" lift

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post #5 of 6 Old 10-03-2012, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks man. How would the trans act if there wasn't a smell but possible issue? How hard is the dipstick leak to fix? Rear main seal?
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post #6 of 6 Old 10-03-2012, 08:40 AM
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Trust me, it would smell and it will appear brown instead of a nice red on the dipstick. Dipstick leak isn't an awfully hard fix, just tricky because if you mess it up, you have to pull your motor.... and the rear main seal won't be out, it will be the valve cover that needs a little tightening, which is not difficult at all. It will just look like the rear main seal is out (motor oil dripping from bellhousing area)

'01 7.3L PSD SCLB
Rubber:Ballistic Jester 18x9, 325/65/18 Falken Wildpeak A/T's << LOVE THEM!!
Motor:CCV mod, Zoodad mod, Edge Evolution CTS, Coolant Filter, Cat ELC, Dual Optima Yellowtop Batteries, 6697 mod
Suspension: Polyurethane sway bar link kit, 6" lift

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