03-07 tow mirrors/factory connectors - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
99-03 7.3L Exterior Discussion Body and Accessories Talk

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post #1 of 4 Old 03-31-2012, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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03-07 tow mirrors/factory connectors

I like to use factory connectors on my swaps just in case the mirror needs to come off in the future for any reason. Makes it fast and easier then cutting and repairing the hardwired version of the swap, IMO. The Ford pieces arent cheap and don't come with all of the pieces you need to make the swap complete into the older guys. Of course you will still need to splice into the electrical harness in the truck.

P131/U137 P&A Harness Kit Left Hand 1C3Z14A411BA (1446047)
P131/U137 P&A Harness Kit Right Hand 1C3Z14A411AA (1446046)

These are the part numbers for the connector in the above picture from Ford. The flat rectangle gets plugged into the harness of the 03-07 tow mirror. The round plug controls the actual mirror functions and that get plugged in the harness that is in the older truck's door. The black connector is for the defrost and ground wires for the mirror.

This picture shows the grey plug which doesn't have enough pins to make the swap complete. You will have to add some pins to the connector to make the swap complete.

These are the Ford OEM pins that where very hard to find here in Houston. I finally found the right 1s from K&N distributors. I was more then glad to buy the box once I had found them.

These are the Ford connectors for the deforst/ground wire combination. Once all of these guys are installed you can remove the mirror by unsnapping the 1 gray connector. I am gathering all of the right color/size wiring right now to complete this swap. I will post the pics of the splice points in the truck's harness here in the very near future as I am doing this swap right now.

Last edited by Houstonvett; 03-31-2012 at 11:57 AM.
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post #2 of 4 Old 03-31-2012, 12:38 PM
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I will watch along. Curious what your gonna do for defrost.


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post #3 of 4 Old 03-31-2012, 09:28 PM
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Nice job Houstonvett. I love clean installations that look factory!

I like to make things plug & play also. I took that same plug that you have there, removed the two black wires that came with it, inserted 4 of these male pig tails that I picked up from the local Ford dealer into the connector, then added a Molex connector to the opposite end of the 4 new pigtails. The 4 new wires were a ground, mirror heat, turn signal and marker.[IMG]

A second challenge came when I removed the 03-07 mirrors and upgraded to the 2008-2012 mirrors. I had to make another adapter to go from the 10 pin to the new 22 pin connector. Back to the dealer for more replacement pins (females this time). The local wrecking yard had damaged 03-07 mirrors in stock, so we cut the plugs off of them, and they had a wrecked 2010 in the yard and they let me cut the connectors off of the door harnesses. Married those plugs together for another plug & play setup.

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post #4 of 4 Old 04-08-2012, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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For the wiring of the mirrors you will need some brown, green, white, black (factory colors) and red wires around 18 Ga. I am using the red wires to bring power to the defrost section of the mirrors. I will be using a 30 Amp relay and a switch to turn on/off the defrost section of the mirrors. I don't like Ford's idea of leaving on the defrost section of the mirror 100% of the time, so I will go with the relay/switch combo. Brown goes to both mirrors as this is your running lights. White, (passanger side)Green wires (driver's side) work the directional lights in each mirror. Black is the ground wire for both mirrors.

For the passanger side mirror wiring harness, I cut about 9' of red, black, white & brown wire. The white and brown wire will get the Ford OEM pins on them so they will fit into the factory connector in slots 4 for the turn signal light (white) & the brown (running light) in slot 7 on my truck.

When assambling the pins be very carefull to not bend them of de-form them in anyway. The Ford factory guys have a special tool that crimps their connectors so I had to overlap the flaps a little when I made up my connectors. I sodered my connectors also.

Push the red locking tab out of the Ford connector and the pins should go right in with a little effort. Push the pins from behind with a small screwdriver if it is a tight fit. Do not pull on the pins with a needle nose pliers as it doesn't take much pressure to FUBAR up these connectors.

When running the wiring thru the door to the cabin I completly pulled off the rubber conduit that fits in between the 2 pieces. I then ran a wire snake from the cabin thru the rubber conduit and into the door. Be very carefull when running the snake thru the rubber conduit to make sure you don't strip off some insulation to the wires allready in the conduit. Very important especially when pulling the wires thru to the cabin. The rubber conduit has an opening taped very tightly around the harness that is allready in there. It is easier to remove the rubber conduit and make sure you snake the wires thru with no problems, IMO. The entrance into the cabin has a slight dog leg in it too and the wire snake makes it super easy to get around this little problem area too, IMO.

I will be splicing the harness in later this week and will post those pics up also.

Last edited by Houstonvett; 04-08-2012 at 09:31 AM.
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