Stupid OEM SS fender flares - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
99-03 7.3L Exterior Discussion Body and Accessories Talk

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post #1 of 6 Old 03-01-2010, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Stupid OEM SS fender flares

I decided that I didn't like the look of the OEM SS chrome looking fender flares on my dark blue 2000 crew cab. Looked a little "shiney" for my tastes.

So I removed all four mud flaps and then the little SS screws easily backed out to allow the flares to pop off. Those dang flares were packed with silt and when I swept the grime off the fenders I found plenty of rust bubbles.

The bubbles were more prevalent on the lower parts of the fenders which is good because there is good access to both sides of the sheet metal on the bottom half of the fender openings. The bubbles almost all seem to have started at a screw hole and crept under the paint from there.

So I took the wire wheel to the truck on Saturday and ground out all the rust that I could find on both sides of the fender sheet metal in teh rear and on the outside up front. Only in one place was I able to get a couple of pinholes but I had great access to clean this area.

I found the foam you folks talk about on the top of the rear fenders in the double wall area and I didn't seem to have any bubbles in that area.

So I researched my options and then bought a por15 starter kit for 20$ and followed the directions precisely. The por15 lays down really smooth but the rustoleum top coat I used left slight brushmarks. Overall, the glossy black paint where the rust was is pretty unnoticeable against the blue paint.

The por15 stuff directs you to paint over pinholes and that the paint will bridge the holes and stop the rust. I only used like 20% of the small 4oz can of por15 for all four fender lips plus however far I had to chase the bubbles out to find solid paint.

If this doesn't work then I could always pay big bucks to have a body shop cut out the panels. We've got to realize that the whole truck in great condition isn't worth much so these fixes are becoming a reality.

In my opinion it worked great and I hope you all pop off you flares to check on the rust situation. My bubbles weren't yet visible until I removed the flares but if I had waited any longer I would have had major rust issues.

2000 F350 4wd CC SB PSD
Normal mods plus gauges and PHP chip
Lowered to F250 height
Stock tire size, looks stock.

18' 10k# equipment trailer
30' Travel Trailer 7500#
Kioti CK30 tractor
Kawasaki KLX250s Dual Sport
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post #2 of 6 Old 03-02-2010, 07:19 AM
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GEt bushwacker fender flares and cover them up.

2005 350 SDSC 4x4 Auto 6.0h no

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post #3 of 6 Old 03-02-2010, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roccodart440 View Post
GEt bushwacker fender flares and cover them up.
That is plan B. If the por15 treatment works but looks bad then some nice paintable flares may go on.

Plan C is like plan B but involves shooting bedliner material on the rockers and the fenders.

Plan D is a last resort for if the rust returns with a vengence, that is to cut out the fenders.

Apparently, the SD trucks suffer from major rust issues on these fenderwells even in places like mine that don't use salt. This aint the 70s folks, why can't Ford get this right?

2000 F350 4wd CC SB PSD
Normal mods plus gauges and PHP chip
Lowered to F250 height
Stock tire size, looks stock.

18' 10k# equipment trailer
30' Travel Trailer 7500#
Kioti CK30 tractor
Kawasaki KLX250s Dual Sport
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post #4 of 6 Old 03-05-2010, 06:01 PM
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Can you post some pics of before,during and after?
Just trying to figure out how much rust you have to see if there are any more reasonable price solutions for you.
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post #5 of 6 Old 03-05-2010, 08:04 PM
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ats flares from sumitt racing. Are 249.95 for the set of 4 and are paintable. They fit great and when they are mounted they stick above on above the factory body line

Black harley lts w/5k hids , blacked out tail lights w/leds,front & rear maghytec diff covers filled w/amsoil, 3" level kit w/ 3" rear block and 5100 bilsteins. 20" novakanes on 35 toyo mt's. kenwood touch screen w/amped kenwood door speakers w/ jl 10w3 subs, optima batts,ipr egr delete,5" sinister stainless exhaust,livewire ts w/egt probe,roof rack removed,mac air intake, blue spring mod, sinister clnt filter,clnt flush & filled w/elc

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post #6 of 6 Old 03-05-2010, 08:51 PM
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covering up the problem you need to take care of the rust first then install flares if you want. pending on how bad it is, it shouldnt cost to much to have a body shop take care of it.

SOLD... LOOKING FOR A 6.7L OR 6.4L CC SB MUST BE CLEAN!!!
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