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Old 07-27-2014, 03:27 PM
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clutch problems

I HAve a 2000 F250 S/D S/C with 228000 miles on her. Love the truck, she may not be pretty anymore but she still runs great and gets 15-17 mpg around town, My problem is the slave cylinder or master cylinder, I replaced the clutch ,pressure plate, fly wheel throw out bearing as well as the pilot bearing. I used the Lux updated kit. got it all together but the pedal will not engage enough to allow shifting . I pumped or bled the slave about 30 times, pleanty of fluid pushing back but to no avail , still won't work . Any advice woul;d be greatly appreciated
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Old 08-01-2014, 05:36 PM
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My truck started to be tougher to get into 1st or reverse within the last 3 weeks. I was going to either replace the slave and master or bleed the system . I am looking for the bleeding procedure before i get into it.
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Old 08-01-2014, 05:48 PM
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I think I may have found the solution for both our problems .

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Wolf82636 Wolf82636 is offline
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Wolf82636
My ultimate clutch bleed and master cylinder push rod fix.
Ok I was just tinkering with the clutch system on my truck AGAIN. Having read all the diagnosis and bleeding advice posts on this forum and I was looking at it. Now mine is an 1989 and has the external slave cylinder so this may not be as easy for you. But, to bleed instead of bench bleeding, gravity bleeding, then the ole pump the pedal bleeding all together, this is way simpler. 1st bench bleed the system as described in another post (just search it if you don't know how). 2nd with the system bench bled and hooked up at the slave cylinder. Detach the slave from the bell housing with the line still attached and with a buddy observing the reservoir from above push the slave cylinder push rod in. You will hear any air escaping at the reservoir. Have your assistant make sure the reservoir stays full and repeat until you don't hear air escaping. Then simply remount the slave cylinder. Now, I also realized that my master cylinder push rod wasn't long enough and that was where the rest of my problem was. So i took a shell casing from a .40 cal pistol round and cut it in half that is the length I needed, then i tapped it onto the end of the push rod. It worked perfectly my clutch now disengages with the pedal only half depressed whereas before i had to floor it. I hope this helps some people and any questions or comments would be appreciated.
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