Installed new trans - nothing???

[BRS]

OK, installed a new 4r100, bolted everything back up, hooked electronics back up, filled it with fluid, and started it. Moved it through all the gears several times, and nothing. So I pulled lines at radiator, trans cooler, etc. and no fluid. I sucked on one of the lines and fluid comes out, so nothing's blocked, but it's just not pumping. Am I missing something??? I hoped to get this thing running for the weekend, but I can't get in touch with trans guy until Monday...

Thanks!

Ben

[GAS]

Not to insult, but you did put the converter in, right?
Made sure it was seated all the way in?
Input shaft was installed?

I know some one who has done all those at one time or another

[BRS]

Hey, it's hard to get offended when the truck ain't moving. Thought about the TC, but it seemed to seat in there correctly before I jacked it up. Didn't have any trouble at all bolting it up - wouldn't the case leave a gap at the block if the TC wasn't seated right? I've got the inspection plate off right now, watched it spin while the truck idle...

Ben

[GAS]

The converter wasnt bound up after you tightened the belhousing to block bolts? Would of been pretty obvious, had it not been seated all the way.

Have seen people bind them up and damage the pump.

Another possibility could be a missing filter inside the pan. Anything is possible. A way to check that, is to over fill by 5 or 6 quarts. if it starts pumping fluid then you got a pretty good bet the filter is missing.


If you elect to pull it out again you can look and see if the pump gears are there for the converter to engage.

Just thinking out loud here,,,,,

[cchase]

yeah, it can be deciving, aaaaa uhhh buddy of mine, lol, was an idiot for a second and let the tc slip when installing it, everything bolted up fine, and it just tore the pump right up....

[BRS]

Well, I just backed the bellhousing bolts off (not all the way) and took the flexplate bolts out. The converter rolls around freely but I can't slide it on the shaft really - I've only got an 1/8" to play with right now. Even if I back the trans off all they way, is there any way to know if I killed the pump or not?

Ben

[GAS]

If the converter spun freely when the bellhousing bolts were tight you are ok.

If not, the only way to be sure is to pull the trans and inspect the pump.

[BRS]

Well I pulled it again and I guess I didn't have the converter set in right originally. I reset it and bolted bellhousing up again, only this time there was like a 1/4" gap between the converter and flexplate, which pulled up when I tightened the converter bolts and probably dislodged the converter again since it won't pump again. So I guess I'll send the trans and converter back to be checked. But, that gap has me curious now. Either I shoved the pump engagement back into the trans that far, or I bent the flexplate all the way around. Do flexplates permanently deform like that?

Ben

[BRS]

Just thought I'd update in case anyone else runs into this. I did kill the pump and the converter hub. So, new converter, new pump, new filter (already had it, so why chance it), and new flexplate (swear it's deformed but couldn't be sure, so not chancing it) and I'm back in business

1. Pull the transmission, drain it, and remove pan.
2. Remove transmission filter, and make sure the orange rubber comes out on it.
3. Stand trans up on end so the bellhousing is pointing straight up.
4. Remove all 9 pump bolts.
5. Thread in larger metric bolts for a few turns in the two threaded holes where you removed pump bolts (7 holes are unthreaded, 2 are threaded). The bolts from the transfer case to the extension housing fit perfectly.
6. Using a slide hammer alternate single pulls on the two bolts while holding the input shaft to keep it from moving.
7. Pump should come right out. Make sure that's all that comes out.
8. Replace the gasket under the pump.
9. Install new pump making sure gasket remains in place and holes line up.
10. Install the 9 pump bolts and torque to 23 ftlbs.
11. Install new filter and pan.
12. Put the trans back in making sure the new converter hits all three engagements this time. Place a straightedge across the face of the bellhousing - it should NOT contact the converter pilot. If it does then it's not engaging the pump correctly. And of course, bolt the bellhousing up, torque it down, and make sure the converter can still roll around freely.

Ben