4R100 Transmission Problem - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 05-19-2008, 10:34 PM
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4R100 Transmission Problem

I have a 2001 F250 7.3 powerstroke diesel with 113,000 miles. I think it has a 4R100 automatic trans. I drove 3 hours home pulling a trailer weighing approx. 500 pounds. I didn't notice any problems. Temps were fine and truck driving smooth. I parked the truck for the night, start the truck in the morning and pull it out of the driveway and it feels like the brakes are on. I pull over, put it in park, check parking brake, trailer brake, etc. and everything is ok. Put the truck in drive and it will not move. Put truck in 2nd gear and it will not move. Truck will move in 1st gear, but with a little loping. The trans. fluid level is good, it's color is good and it doesn't smell burnt. There are no leaks in the trans either.
I had a superchips programmer, but was stolen. Truck is set in tow mode.
Any ideas on what the problem could be? Is it common for this model of trans. to quit without any warning? Any information would be great. Thanks!
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:54 PM
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Sounds like the one way roller sprag took a crap on you.Dont try and drive it any more and have it towed to a trans shop for repair.Make sure it get the upgrades done on it for the best reliabillty.

Upgrades:Sonnax Transmission, Torque Converter, Performance, Driveline Parts :: Transmission Specialties® :: Ford :: 4R100
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:57 AM
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Yep. Sprag gear. It's fubar. You need a new rebuild. Big pain in the $$$, get a HD version or you'll replace it again. The 4R100 in these is way too weak. Funny how most of these repairs happen after the 100,000 mile warranty. You'd think it was engineered that way. Nah, Ford wouldn't do that?
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Old 05-20-2008, 07:04 AM
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Thanks for the information. I bought this truck with the intent to pull a toyhauler and have a reliable tow vehicle. If I am going to have to rebuild the transmission, what upgrades are recommended and how much should I expect to pay for them? Also, does anyone have a recommendation for a transmission shop in the Stockton/Lodi area of Northern California? Thanks again
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Old 05-20-2008, 07:58 AM
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I feel your pain. I just had the same thing happen to me a month ago. Mine had 160k on it though. They replace the planetaries with hardened steel ones and add a center support bearing for the upgrades. I also got a triple disc TC to help out. I got it done at a local shop here in TX and it was right at $3k with a crappy 36k mile warranty. I've only had to bring it back 3 times for them to fix their crappy work but so far it hasn't been anything major.

That is the first time anyone has touched my truck besides me and I wasn't happy with their work cause I'm anal about it. I'd recommend you look over your truck for scratches and make note of them before you drop it off. They scratched mine and I had to waste several hours arguing with them that the blue paint and scratches themselves match their lifts. I finally won the argument but I'd rather not have to do it in the first place.

If I had to do it all over again I would have had BTS build me a bullet proof one for another $1k. I just didn't have the time to pull it, ship it, and wait for it to come back.
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:59 AM
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I did the R&R myself and got a trans delivered from RoadMaster Transmission Service, Inc., We Add Years To Your Gears!

I had them do the upgrades plus a RV TC. The total bill was about $2300
My only complaint was that it shifts hard. But a good ECU programmer fixed that.
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thausauer View Post
Thanks for the information. I bought this truck with the intent to pull a toyhauler and have a reliable tow vehicle. If I am going to have to rebuild the transmission, what upgrades are recommended and how much should I expect to pay for them? Also, does anyone have a recommendation for a transmission shop in the Stockton/Lodi area of Northern California? Thanks again
You are looking at doing:
Boost valve and sleeve kit w/o-ring
TCC valve with sleeve kit
Multi diode one way sprag
Trans go tugger shift kit
steel 6-pinion planetery gear set
Early style front pump (you should have being an 01)
Direct drum for 5-clutch pak
Duel disc billet torq. converter
These should be considerd standerd upgrades for a
diesel that is being used for pulling any amount of weight.

I have all this done to my trans and absolutely love it!!
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:55 AM
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Thanks everyone for the information. I have an appt. at a local transmission shop on Friday. Will post when I find out the results.
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:13 AM
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fordmike, for fyi, '98 up has the steel planets,, do not do the tcc sleeve kit,( if you're reffering to the transgo pwm conversion),, If it has the diode sprag, replace it with the Borg Warner sprag, the transgo tugger kit has the new boost valve in it, the direct drum is already a 5 clutch. The better trans shops can get 7 clutches here, but they have to have a lathe. Most trans shops don't have that.
thausauer, pay the extra $ and request full synthetic fluid.
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Old 05-23-2008, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipz2222 View Post
fordmike, for fyi, '98 up has the steel planets,, do not do the tcc sleeve kit,( if you're reffering to the transgo pwm conversion),, If it has the diode sprag, replace it with the Borg Warner sprag, the transgo tugger kit has the new boost valve in it, the direct drum is already a 5 clutch. The better trans shops can get 7 clutches here, but they have to have a lathe. Most trans shops don't have that.
thausauer, pay the extra $ and request full synthetic fluid.
Not all the trans have the steel (6-PINION) and why wouldnt you do the TCC valve and sleeve kit as the stock one is aluminum and small (it wears and jams up)and the sonnax one is much larger and steel.The trans Will have the diode sprag and is known to be a week link in these trannies (sounds like what failed in his trans).Not all direct drums are 5-clutch quite a few came with 4-clutch and none came with a 7-clutch. Converting to a 7-clutch requires milling down the piston in the clutch drum and almost any machine shop can do this for you but you will be weakening the piston by making it thinner so leave it alone for longevity and durabillty.We mill the pistons down for racing and for hotrods not for a daily drivers or heavy towing. Always use synthetic fluid if you can.
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