zf6 clutch install - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 3 Old 03-18-2013, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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zf6 clutch install

i bent my clutch fork friday night so i figured id go ahead and replace the factory clutch since im at 175,000 miles. i ordered my upgraded organic valair clutch kit and went to ford and got the upgraded fork and a fork mounting stud. is there any tips or suggestions on removal and installation that yall happen to have for me. its a 2000 7.3L lifted 4 inches. gunna re-use my factory flywheel cause i cant afford a new one. unless i have to get one of course i will find a way to do it but if all looks good ill re-use the stock one. any help is appreciated ahead of time
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post #2 of 3 Old 03-19-2013, 05:50 AM
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QUOTE *****

I just did another one yesterday as a matter of fact.

Take off the shifter boot, the two T40 bolts on the shift lever, and the six 6MM allen bolts that hold the top shift on.

Go under the truck, unbolt the driveshaft(s) with a 12mm wrench or 12mm 12pt. socket and the center support bearing housing (15MM) if equipped.

If you don't have a dedicated transmission jack and have a 4x4 truck, remove the transfer case. Either unplug the shift motor or use a prybar and some panther piss to remove the shift lever (electronic vs. manual shift). Use a 10mm wrench to take out the two bolts that hold on the 4x4 shift lever (if equipped).

If you have a dedicated jack, you can usually leave the transfer case attached. You'll still have to disconnect the shift motor connector or the shift lever (but you can leave the linkage attached).

Push in and turn the clutch slave cylinder 60 degrees counter clockwise....it will pop out.

Remove the single 10mm bolt that attaches the wire holder to the driver's side of the transmission case.

Remove the starter and the flywheel cover (17mm for the starter, 10mm for the cover).

Take out four of the bellhousing bolts (two short upper ones and two middle longer ones on each side). Get your jack ready.

Remove the crossmember. Three 15mm bolts on the drivers side and six 18mm nuts on the passenger side. Yep, it's a puzzle going back together.

With the jack in place (maybe someone you know well who won't sue you as well to steady/balance the transmission on the jack), remove the last two bellhousing bolts.

Try to find a "balance point" where there is no stress between the engine block and the bellhousing. Pull the transmission back. You'll likely have to lower the jack little by little as you go backward to keep the stress off of the input shaft.

Good luck!

After you do it a few times, it can be pulled and reinstalled in about 1.5 hours depending on how willing it is to go back together.

Realistically, the most time-consuming part is dealing with the shifter.

**** As far as your flywheel is concerned, take it to a mechanic shop and have them "turn" it. Any high sides to it, you'll kill the new clutch assy..

99.5 x-cab 7.3l, 6spd, 161k miles.....
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post #3 of 3 Old 09-03-2013, 06:15 PM
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Good info, thanks! I have to replace my clutch soon. Approx how much would you say the tranny+xfer case weigh? I have a good transmission jack, but its only rated for something like 750 lbs.

Also, does the engine not need to be supported separately from the tranny? Most vehicles that I have done clutch work on would damage the header/exhaust pipes and other plumbing or something even worse if you didnt support the back of the motor once the tranny was disconnected from it.
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clutch, install, installation, valair, zf6

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