**1/8/11**----we just finished my buddies swap in his '01 F350. same swap and parts as listed below, but we chose to cut out the floor hump and install one from a manual trans truck...i recommend this method, it looks great and makes things easier along the way. anyone looking to do this swap feel free to PM me for info/questions. im even up for doing the swap for you if needed.
had lots of questions lately so i went ahead and typed up this list to help some of you guys out, pm me for questions, im glad to help.
UPDATED 7/18/11. PARTS LIST/HOW TO.
heres the list of what you need to do the swap from auto to manual.
zf6 manual trans
-clutch and flywheel assembly (i recommend a good aftermarket one like a Southbend if you are running a tuner)
-clutch master and slave cyl
**if you have 4x4 you'll need the transfer case from the donor truck OR you can swap input shafts. (the t-case input shaft is different for auto and manual trans).
-clutch and brake pedal assembly
-transmission spacer plate (same shape as bellhousing). remove the thick one from the automatic, replace it with the thin one from the manual.)
the order in which i did everything was like this:
-removed seats, pulled back carpet.
-using manual trans floor hump as a guide, i marked and cut the floor hump out of the auto truck, leaving a 1" overlap for the new hump to be attached to. (either welded or self tapping screws with silicone.)
-remove both driveshafts, starter, t-case, and transmission
-remove trans spacer plate, flywheel, and spacer ring from behind flywheel
-install flywheel, and spacer plate.
-install manual trans, t-case, starter, and driveshafts
-splice the wiring
-remove old brake pedal
-install new clutch/brake pedals
-install clutch master and slave cyl. (be sure to bleed it before installing)
and you should be good to go.
your transmission crossmember should have 2 extra holes in it. use those holes when mounting up the manual trans.
the floor hump can be tackled two ways- 1) cutting one from the donor truck and putting it into your truck. 2)get under your truck with a floor jack and some 4x4's and a good hammer, "finess" the floor hump up. i've done it both ways, and i strongly recommend option 1 if its possible. the shifter hole is already there for you, and it leaves a much cleaner look. it also allows easy access to the top of the transmission for removal of the auto, and install of the manual.
the clutch and brake pedals will mount right up...all trucks are built to accomodate either trans, so its already got the studs in place for the clutch pedal. under the dash near where the clutch pedal will go, look up in the wiring, and you should find a plug thats rectangular in shape thats currently plugged into a dummy plug. thats the clutch pedal position sensor plug. it plugs into the cpps that will be on the clutch pedal.
the wiring is the trickiest part...the automatics came with 2 different setups i believe- one has more wires than the other. in either case, on the main plug that plugs into your transmission, the two biggest wires have to be spliced together. (i believe one is yellow with a red stripe and the other is blue with a purple stripe)...**dont hold me to that, its been a while since i looked at it.) splicing these wires should enable you to start/drive the truck, but i'd go ahead and order one from ford. you'll need the manual transmission wiring harness. (i paid $65 for it from the dealer.) it plugs into the harness up on the drivers side inner fender well and comes down and plugs into the reverse light plug, 4x4 indicator plug on t-case....etc.
you'll also more than likely have to get your trucks computer re-flashed. Jody at DP tuner can do that for you. he's a great guy, and he can also hook you up with some custom tunes for your truck if you want. typically what will happen if you dont re-flash it is the truck will surge and "spit n sputter" when driving, particularly when accelerating. this is because the pcm is programmed differently for auto and manual trucks, as far as fuel parameters, injection time, etc etc....
that should get you started pretty good. let me know if you have any questions at all and i'll help you as much as i can.
contact me via email or powerstroke.org
I just finished my auto to manual swap in my F250. Just thought i'd give a huge thanks to the guys here that answered some of my questions. And also...the write-up that BigStroker made was a HUGE help and a nice confidence booster. Here's a brief list of how i made it happen.
-parts $2300 (all from same guy listed below)
-trans fluid $50
-Fuel in my buddies powerstroke for the 800 mile trip $150.
*(ALL LABOR DONE MYSELF)
Found a guy doing the opposite swap and i got all of my parts from him:
-zf6 manual trans
-clutch and flywheel assembly
-clutch master and slave cyl
-transfer case input shaft (couldnt swap the whole thing b/c i have manual t-case shifter and his was electric)
-clutch and brake pedal assembly
no need to go into elaborate detail about how i did it, i basically did it just like BigStroker did in his thread. I will add that i did NOT swap the floor humps. i just used a floor jack, some 6x6 blocks, and little patience and "finessed" it up. (had to jack it up to clear the zf6). then i measured and cut the hole for the shifter, it looks great and the carpet hides any minor imperfections in the metal work.
i also didnt swap the steering column. i just removed the old shift lever, and will be getting new covers soon to cover the hole. I will also be getting a new wiring harness for the trans, but for now i have just spliced the 4 wires that needed to be connected to "fool" the old computer into thinking that the trans is in park or neutral to enable it to start.
all in all, everything is working fine so far, and my only regret is that i didnt do this 3 years ago when my first of what would be 3 automatic transmissions went out.
A FEW OTHER NOTES:
your truck should already be "prepped" to take the manual set up. mine already had the holes through the firewall for the clutch pedal to bolt to and the master cyl to go through. it also was already wired for the plug that is on the clutch pedal (i believe to be the neutral safety switch). it was really a very basic transmission swap that isnt too hard for the average do-it-yourselfer thats a little mechanically inclined.
COLUMN REMOVED, (i later found out this wasnt required, but you do need to do it access the shift indicator to remove it.)
SHIFT INDICATOR REMOVED. (2 plastic squeeze tabs on either side and it slides right out.)
SHIFT INDICATOR COVERED WITH BLACK ELECTRICAL TAPE. (looks like a stock 6-spd dash!)
CLUTCH, BRAKE PEDAL INSTALLED.