is it like absolutely no power or like 5% at best? i had this happen to me after i burned a little tranny fluid. i gave her some rest and the next day she drove fine and then randomly the trans went limp. it had like 5% at best.
it wont do anything you canput in in any gear and hit the gas and all itdoes is rev up dont even roll lol
You have 3 possibilities of what the problem could be, and when it comes to these 3 items, it can be either 1, 2, or all 3. The only thing that sucks is out of 3, 2 of them require the transmission to come out. The 1st one you can check is the accumulator. You'll have to drain the ATF out of the pan. Just like other posters on this thread had said, check the condition of the fluid that comes out of the pan. If it's real dirty, I'm more certain it's 1, 2, or all 3.
This is the easiest area to check: the accumulator. Remove the trans pan(save the gasket, get rid of the oil[DO NOT REUSE] & clean your magnet while you're in there). To check the accumulator, you'll need the following: ratchet(1/4" or 3/8"), 10mm socket, short extension, a small pair of internal
snap ring pliers, a flat clean work surface, brake cleaner or mineral spirits, & rags. Remove the trans filter. Your accumulator is the rectangular body that mounts behind the hole where the filter mounts. The L-shaped body is your valve body: DON'T MESS WITH THIS. Remove the accumulator's 10mm bolts & remove it. BE CAREFUL: don't drop or slam it on a hard surface. It will crack/break. At the ends of the accumulator, you'll see the snap rings that hold the shift valves in. With a rag laid out on your work area, remove 1 snap ring from whichever valve you choose(do 1 valve at a time or you'll mix up parts) pull the stopper out, & keep the pieces laid out on the rag in the exact order they came out. There should be the stopper, spring, & valve inside each. Sometimes the pieces will get stuck. There's a slot for each valve orifice where you can used a pick or small flathead screwdriver to remove the remaining pieces. If you have a block of wood, you can tap it lightly on the wood to pop pieces you can't get out. Check each piece individually for scum or buildup. You can clean the pieces with either brake cleaner or mineral spirits. Check the inside of each of the orifices also. This is probably where you'll find the most buildup. Get all the crap out of those orifices. You can actually clean the entire accumulator(AS LONG AS ALL VALVE PIECES ARE OUT!!!) with brake cleaner, parts washer, or mineral spirits. Dry with compressed air. Install the pieces in reverse order & reinstall the snap rings. You'll have to push the stoppers against the springs past the snap ring groove & install the snap ring. If you DO find any gunk inside the accumulator or it's pieces, DO NOT
put the whole trans back together & test it. Your problem lies within the pump. Stuck/gunky shift valves are evidence that you're pump probably has some garbage in it too. You don't want to just test the accumulator, put the trans back together, fill it with new ATF, & then find out you still aren't going anywhere.
Possibility #2 & #3:
Both of these require you remove the transmission. If you can do this, put the trans on a flat surface(with just the pan & gasket installed with a couple of bolts holding it snug to the trans) or stand it up & securing it with woodblocks underneath. Remove the TC. You'll need the following tools for the next part: the 10mm setup & the snap ring pliers, a blunt object like a punch or a medium-sized flathead screwdriver, & if you don't have the alignment tool(which most of us don't), you'll need enough hose clamps(#36 clamps are best) connected together in a ring big enough to fit around the pump snug(I'll explain this later). For reinstall, if the gasket under the pump is damaged from removal, you'll need a new pump gasket & o-ring for the pump itself. Remove the bolts holding the pump to the inside of the bell housing. Carefully remove the pump from the transmission. It's not heavy & should only take a little messing around with to wiggle it out. Place the pump on a clean surface.
if you look on the sides of the pump, you'll see an orifice with stopper held in with a snap ring similar to the shift valves on your accumulator, but slightly bigger. This is your boost valve. Remove the snap ring & remove the pieces just as you did with the accumulator, laying out the pieces in the order they came out. Same thing: check to see if there's any gunk or debris that's compressing the spring & would cause the valve to stay open. Clean all pieces & the orifice. Reinstall is reverse from removal. The only thing is, you'll need the blunt object to push the stopper for the boost valve past the groove for the snap ring. You might need another person to help you do this. It's a pain sometimes.
while you have the pump out, remove ALL 10mm bolts & separate the 2 halves. You'll see the "mouse maze" inside one side of the pump similar to the one on top of the accumulator. On the other half, you'll see the pump gear, similar to an engine oil pump's. Check to see if the gear is broken or is wedged inside the pump where you can't simply remove it with your fingers. If the gear is broken or wedged, this is your problem. You'll have to either buy the new pump gear itself with a new sleeve & seal, or you can buy the half of the pump with the gear only already installed(buying the half is a little more expensive, but more beneficial. Usually about $90-$95). Make sure, if the gear isn't the problem, that you still clean the "maze" & the pump itself with brake cleaner before putting it back together. Use compressed air to dry it.
Here's the hard part of putting the pump back together: the 2 halves of the pump can only install 1 way(you'll see by the bolt pattern). The thing is, both of the halves have to be lined up PERFECT. Put the 2 halves together, trying to line up the edges as best you can. Run each bolt in & snug them finger tight. DO NOT
use the ratchet yet. With the hoseclamps assembled in a ring, lay the ring around the outside edge of the pump halves. Lightly tighten the clamps until both halves are EXACTLY lined up. If the halves aren't lined up, the pump won't go back into the trans. It might take some messing around by tightening different sections of the hose clamps, but you'll get it. As long as you have grease on the outside o-ring, you can check the fitment of the pump until it's in line & remove it to readjust. Once you have the halves perfectly lined up, tighten all the bolts. Install the new or used o-ring(if using old: check o-ring's condition. DO NOT USE if you find any type of damage. Sometimes, if the pump's removed properly, the o-ring won't get damaged during extraction). Put a little more grease on the o-ring. Install the new pump gasket & then install the pump back into the trans. Tighten all hardware. To test to see if the pump's working, reinstall the TC after the pump's been tightened down. Pour a little ATF down where the dipstick tube was(not too much! It will spill over!). Rotate the TC clockwise & see if the ATF goes down into the hole. You can also hear the ATF being slowly pumped too, if it's working right. If the ATF goes down, the pump is working correctly & you can continue assembling the rest of the trans.
: If your pump is broken
- the pump won't cycle any fluid through the system. It's like not having a pump at all. It will not draw any fluid to the drums, valves, valve body, accumulator, etc. because it's not creating oil pressure. If the boost valve is stuck open
- the trans will create pressure, but won't cycle oil through the pump to where it needs to go in the system(i.e.- accumulator, valve body, drums). The pump will draw fluid through itself, run through the open boost valve, & cycle it right back to the pan. Both of these conditions will cause the truck to engage in gear, but not move. As far as the accumulator, it's a possibility, but a slight one. If there's gunk in any of the accumulator valves, chances are there's going to be gunk in the boost valve. However, if 1 or more of the valves in the accumulator are stuck open, this will cause the truck to not move either. KEEP IN MIND- YOUR TRANS IS NOT ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED AS FAR AS IT'S OPERATION. IT'S HYDRAULIC OVER MECHANICAL. YOUR TRANS IS ONLY ELECTRONICALLY ASSISTED(SHIFT SOLENOIDS, OD, & NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH). THIS IS A MECHANICAL/HYDRAULIC PROBLEM. Hope this all helps.