No Overdrive, O/D light flashing, P0708 TRS Code

[MattMose]

I have a 2001 E-350 7.3. I recently had my engine replaced.

Due to the circumstances, the shop that did the replacement was in Atlanta and I live in Philadelphia. I was stuck in Atlanta during the replacement and long story short, had to bolt back to Philly as soon as the job was done.

As I drove back to Philly, I noticed my O/d light flashing and later notice the Transmission was not shifting into Overdrive. Also, it has extremely low power going up inclines. Other than that, it seems to shift and drive OK under normal conditions other than it won't go above 60 mph on the highway.

An obvious step would be to take it back to the shop and have them look at the issue since they performed the engine swap, but I'm in Philly now and the shop's in Atlanta. So I want to see if there are some things I can check on my own to fix this issue. I'm hoping they missed a sensor connection or something simple like that.

I have AutoEnginuity and pulled my codes:

P0713 Trans fluid temp sensor circuit high input
P1248 Turbocharger Boost Pressure Not Detected
P0708 Trans Range Sensor Circuit High input
P1105 Dual Alternator Upper Fault

Any ideas on what I can try on my own without another expensive trip to a mechanic?

Thanks,
Matt

[BIGBILL105 45]

Originally Posted by MattMose

I have a 2001 E-350 7.3. I recently had my engine replaced.

Due to the circumstances, the shop that did the replacement was in Atlanta and I live in Philadelphia. I was stuck in Atlanta during the replacement and long story short, had to bolt back to Philly as soon as the job was done.

As I drove back to Philly, I noticed my O/d light flashing and later notice the Transmission was not shifting into Overdrive. Also, it has extremely low power going up inclines. Other than that, it seems to shift and drive OK under normal conditions other than it won't go above 60 mph on the highway.

An obvious step would be to take it back to the shop and have them look at the issue since they performed the engine swap, but I'm in Philly now and the shop's in Atlanta. So I want to see if there are some things I can check on my own to fix this issue. I'm hoping they missed a sensor connection or something simple like that.

I have AutoEnginuity and pulled my codes:

P0713 Trans fluid temp sensor circuit high input
P1248 Turbocharger Boost Pressure Not Detected
P0708 Trans Range Sensor Circuit High input
P1105 Dual Alternator Upper Fault

Any ideas on what I can try on my own without another expensive trip to a mechanic?

Thanks,
Matt

After my light started flashing and my OD went out, then about 50 miles later, my front seal on my transmission blew out and i leaked ATF until the tranny was dry. Cause of the problem was the torque converter shredded and was sent threw the transmission

[MattMose]

I think an important thing to keep in mind is that the transmission was fine until exactly after the engine replacement, which of course involves a little more than a dabble with the transmission itself.

So I think the issue is directly related to the engine swap, not really a wear and tear issue that came further down the line. Van goes in Tranny's fine, Van comes out, overdrive is gone.

I think that's a point in the direction of the issue- such as a misaligned or disconnected sensor.

Does that sound reasonable?

[BIGBILL105 45]

Do you have a tranny temp gauge?

[MattMose]

Would a bad or disconnected Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) or Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor cause the Trans to default to limp mode?

I know where the TRS is located, but any clue where the Fluid Temp Sensor is? Inside the Trans fluid pan I'd assume...

[silverF250]

Well climb underneath it and check the connections. There are only 3 on the tranny. One on the gear selector, one on top of trans and one on passenger side of tans. In honesty only two should even be possible the one on top and the one on passenger side.

I really don't see a way they did anything with trans sensors. They should have been able to be left hooked up with removal of engine.

[MattMose]

No Tranny temp gauge installed. I only have a Coolant Temp gauge installed.

[MattMose]

I just found this helpful list of instructions on testing and aligning the TRS (here still called MLPS- Ford later changed the name to the industry standard TRS). This is what I'll be doing come daybreak:


Wrong Gear Starts

Bad or mis-adjusted MLPS
Can cause wrong gear starts, no upshift, falls out of gear, and high line pressure = harsh upshift and engagements. May or may not set code 67/634 (MLPS out of position).

Note
MLPS is located on driver's side of transmission case.

MLPS adjustment
Place manual lever in Neutral. Line up I.D mark on sensor with l.D. mark on plastic bushing. Tighten bolts.

To check MLPS

1. Hook red lead of DVOM to pin # 199 (MLP sensor signal).
2. Hook black lead of meter to pin 359 (sensor signal return).
3. Set meter to ohms.
4. Move manual lever through the different positions and compare DVOM reading to chart below.

Manuel lever position
Meter should read:
P 3769 to 4608 ohms
R 1304 to 1593 ohms
N 660 to 807 ohms
D .... 361 to 442 ohms
2 190 to 232 ohms
I 80 to 95 ohms

Important
If the MLPS needs replacement, use Ford part # E5TZ-7A247-A. This kit includes a new style harness connector. You must replace the connector to use the new MLPS. By sliding the old wire separator from the original connector up the harness you can leave it in place as you install the new connector. This helps to keep the wires in their original location.

Note
Make sure you clean the harness connector with brake clean and apply some dielectric grease to the pins. This will ensure a good connection. Use Permatex part # 67V (dielectric tune-up grease). You can get it at most auto parts stores.