7.3 excursion keeps dieing wife ready to divorce

[Dirk611]

Snowman:
Anything new ?

Dirk611

[Dirk]

The icp 1211 code tells me that you have a chip or programmer. It's usually a soft code meaning that the hpop can't keep up with the injectors under heavy load.

Since this is probably not the case, check icp sensor and connector for damage or replace both. Could also be a IPR sticking. Worst case, electrical issue with wiring between the ICP sensor and IPR.

[snowman]

Nothing new still parked due to funds, trying to work some extra shifts for the $$ and actually it does not have a chip or programmer,

[Scooterdog]

It turned out to be my IPR. With 147k on the original IPR and the addition of my newer chip with higher HP setting the IPR could not keep up with the HPOP demand. Now with the new IPR it runs like a champ.

[ajohansson]

Fellas,

here is my story. My 2003 7.3 Excursion died in the driveway June 25th. It had shut off a month a go at a stoplight and fired right back up. Did the same thing a few days ago. This time I was pulling in and went dead and will not fire. Check engine light is on, no wait to start light, no rpm when cranking, theft light blinking.

WHen I go to turn the truck on I noticed my fuel pump will not come on either. I have an aftermarket HPFP from FASS. I initialy thought the relays were bad but that did not help. CHeck fused all were good. Put in a new CPS because it had all the symptoms of dying suddenly. Still no change in condition.

I hot wired my fuel pump and it runs. I left it running, got in the truck and turned it over and still it will not fire. Plugged in my Bully dog tuner which is also a code reader and I cant even pull any codes. It tells me to turn on ingition and nothing ever happens. SO no PCM communications.

Send my PCM and IDM back east to florida to be checked by autocomputerexchange.com and they work fine on their bench engine 7.3 liter. With theft light blinking rapidly I think its a PATS issue so I tow it to dealer yesterday. They call today and say its the Exhaust Back pressure sensor which is shorting and causing my symptoms. They say it will be fixed today. We will see. Will kepp you infomred.

AJ

[ajohansson]

TRUCK IS RUNNING! It was the damn EBP senor shorting out!

Dealer took me for $310 for new sensor and instal. I am working the next 72 hours and have a camping trip leaving next week so I was kind of stuck with having them fix it. I didn't realize till after they diagnosed it and were given the go ahead to replace it that I could have ran it with the sensor unplugged and fixed it when I wanted to. That is exactly how they found the problem they unplugged the sensor and it ran fine. Oh well lessoned learned and I hope this post can help someone else down the road.

AJ

[snowman]

Where is the EBP sensor loacted and would it throw the code 1211 snowman

[Dirk]

Originally Posted by snowman

Where is the EBP sensor loacted and would it throw the code 1211 snowman

No.

To answer the question, It is the sensor in front of engine mounted on the front cover, under the HPOP res., by where the top radiator hose mounts...

There is a metal tube mounted to the bottom of the sensor..

[snowman]

Originally Posted by Dirk

No.

To answer the question, It is the sensor in front of engine mounted on the front cover, under the HPOP res., by where the top radiator hose mounts...

There is a metal tube mounted to the bottom of the sensor..

Dirk thats for the answer, any way to test the hpop or the icp thanks snowman

[Dirk]

Yes... and no. Honestly, this is something that you'll need a GOOD scanner for.

Yes, you can build a pressure gauge and tie into the rear HPO port on either head. I believe it's a -5 fitting and you'll need a 3500psi hydraulic gauge and a good bit of line that is pressure rated above 5500psi burst. That should hold 3000+psi working pressure.

With the hose connected, you should see pressure quickly build to 500psi then burst upwards of 1000psi, then level off between 600-900psi.

You can unplug the ICP sensor and start the truck. With the sensor unplugged, the pcm will default to 900psi. This is usually for no start issues, not "driving and dying".

Or, you can hook up a scanner, monitor the live datastream and watch the IRP dutycycle, and ICP PID's.

If your IPR is sticking, you can unplug the IPR and try to start the truck. If she starts, then there is a problem. But this ONLY works depending on where the IPR is sticking.

If you believe the IPR or ICP sensor is bad, call Bob Riley at Dieselsite. He is a great guy and can help you out. I believe he has a rebuilt IPR shaft for $50. He also knows a thing or 2 about the HPO system.


I'm still leaning towards a wiring issue.