03 7.3 oil pan is rusted and leaking through

[nkburger]

I noticed oil drops on the gravel under where I park my ex. I crawled underneath and the underside is covered in oil. I take it for a drive to get it good and warm. I park it and crawl underneath to see if I can find the leak. I wiped everything clean with a rag. The front of the oil pan is rusty and the hot oil is coming through the rust on the passenger front corner. There are a couple of other spots on the pan that are rusty. The back and the sides look like new. Is there any TSB or recall for this? I have 138000 on the odometer. Is this a common problem, or did I get a defect? I think and oil pan should last more than 6 years? I have had the truck 6months. What are my options? I heard you have to pull the motor to change the pan.

[KeepinItFord]

I dont think you have to pull the motor to change the pan, You dont have to on any other car, Just drain the oil, Take out all the skrews, drop the pan. put the new gasket on and bolt in the new pan.

And if you want put some grease or wd40 on it, Oily metal will never rust. itll get dirty but just wipe it off when you change ur oil and if needed add some more, itll keep it lookin good forever.

[edosher]

I hate to hear of your headaches, I just had to go through with this last month on my '02 with 102k miles.
There is not a TSB for this with Ford, and you are over your 100,000 warranty with this as well. This is a very common problem in the East Coast and "Rust Belt" areas, as well as the valve cover and fuel lines rusting through.
You will have to pull the engine to change the Oil Pan on 99-03 Superduty Trucks, there is not enough clearance between the pan and the cross member to pull the pan out. (Even with the turbo off and the engine raised against the firewall). Secondly, the pan and gasket must be applied with the engine turned upside down, as any oil seeping down inside the block will ruin the seal and the leaks will start!!
There isn't a whole lot than you can do for an inexpensive or temporary fixes; I researched everything from epoxy coating the pan, 2 piece replacements, even having a fiberglass replacement made.
Find a good local diesel shop to do the work and stay away from the dealers, my local guy did the whole job in under 12 hours and the dealers wanted 23-30 hours at rate!
Be prepared to find a lot of other small problems while pulling the engine out to replace the oil pan, like:
1. Rusted Fuel lines
2. Radiator Hoses, Lower and Upper
3.Thermostat and Housing
4.Glow Plugs and Valve Cover Gaskets
5.Starter ( The terminals were corroded so badly that they broke off when turned)
6. Water Pump and Antifreeze change
7. Turbo pedestal O-Rings

All said and done, I was out $2750 for parts($1490) and labor($1260). And a case of beer......

Start to save you pennies now and hide the receipts from the wife.....

[rpm-inc]

You CAN get the pan off without pulling the engine. Get the engine as high as you can, drop the pan as far as you can, reach in and unbolt the pick up tube, drop it in the pan, and pull the pan out. THis was on my van, but I have heard of people with trucks doing the same. Getting it back in and sealed is another matter. Some people have had success. Mine leaked. Guess what is upside down on my engine stand right now.

[nkburger]

Originally Posted by edosher

I hate to hear of your headaches, I just had to go through with this last month on my '02 with 102k miles.
There is not a TSB for this with Ford, and you are over your 100,000 warranty with this as well. This is a very common problem in the East Coast and "Rust Belt" areas, as well as the valve cover and fuel lines rusting through.
You will have to pull the engine to change the Oil Pan on 99-03 Superduty Trucks, there is not enough clearance between the pan and the cross member to pull the pan out. (Even with the turbo off and the engine raised against the firewall). Secondly, the pan and gasket must be applied with the engine turned upside down, as any oil seeping down inside the block will ruin the seal and the leaks will start!!
There isn't a whole lot than you can do for an inexpensive or temporary fixes; I researched everything from epoxy coating the pan, 2 piece replacements, even having a fiberglass replacement made.
Find a good local diesel shop to do the work and stay away from the dealers, my local guy did the whole job in under 12 hours and the dealers wanted 23-30 hours at rate!
Be prepared to find a lot of other small problems while pulling the engine out to replace the oil pan, like:
1. Rusted Fuel lines
2. Radiator Hoses, Lower and Upper
3.Thermostat and Housing
4.Glow Plugs and Valve Cover Gaskets
5.Starter ( The terminals were corroded so badly that they broke off when turned)
6. Water Pump and Antifreeze change
7. Turbo pedestal O-Rings

All said and done, I was out $2750 for parts($1490) and labor($1260). And a case of beer......

Start to save you pennies now and hide the receipts from the wife.....

Ouch, that isn't what I want to hear, but thanks for the info. I am going to start getting quotes on Monday and read my shop manual to see if I want to attempt it myself. Did you put a stock pan back on, or did you go with an aftermarket?

[KeepinItFord]

Cant u just drop the cross member? we did that on my stang.
Not the same??

[Y2K STROKER]

You can weld it.

[nkburger]

The cross member doesn't unbolt. You would have to cut it out and weld it back in.

[Dave]

You have to pull the motor to change the oil pan. The engine actually has to sit upside down on an engine stand over night for the sealant to cure properly. If you don't do this you will be doing it all over again shortly

[edosher]

YOU can cut and weld the crossmember in your truck, but I will do mine the right way!! And yes, a Mustang, van and even an F-150 can be done by raising the engine to change the pan. Try it with a Superduty, you'll wind up pulling the engine out.....TRUST ME.....