In the event that some may be afraid to tackle this job without the #6 high compression line tool I am sharing my repair experience. With a wingman/father in law this took 2 hours to complete and the only thing we removed was a few fittings that were in the way and the lines themselves.
Let me also say that having the right tool for the job is always the best. I bought a set of disconnect tools from AutoZone. The parts guy there told me it would do the trick. It did not. So I was forced to improvise.
1. We placed a refridgerator box underneath my truck to collect the diesel and oil that was going to drain out.
2. We removed the high pressure oil temp sensor and the high pressure oil system pressure sensor.
3. We removed the plastic bracket that hold the MAP sensor vacuum hose and the IAT sensor. Its located in the middle of the Y on the turbocharger manifold. It is held on with a bolt. A 5/16" deep well socket on a 1/4" ratchet takes it off.
4. We removed the fuel return line with a 5/8" open end wrench. Also removed the piece it threads into with a t-27 torx bit. Take care not to drop these torx bolts (2), the blue O ring or the spring into the valley of despair.
5. We removed the fuel supply line with a 3/4" open end wrench. We also removed the fitting behind it that threads into the fuel filter. I believe it takes a 13/16" wrench. Since I dont have one, I carefully used a crescent wrench. At this point the diesel fuel in the fuel filter/water separator is going to run into the valley and down the back of the motor.
All of the above is done so that you have access to the HPOP lines.
6. We removed the rear line (closest to the cab) using a 3/4" wrench. As you remove it, you will see first red o ring that will be replaced.
7. We removed the front line with the same 3/4" wrench. Second o ring to replace.
Both of these lines have a spring behind them. I used a Q tip to extract the spring and inspect for debris.
8. We removed the plug at the back of the HPOP with a 13/16" 12 point socket on a 3/8" ratchet. Third o ring to replace.
9. We used carb cleaner to clean all of the fittings. Using Ford part # 2C3Z-9G804-AA install the new o rings. We used a Q tip to apply a this layer of oil on the o rings.
10. At this point we were tempted to try to put the HPOP lines back in without separating the quick disconnect. In our experience this will NOT work. The lines are just the right length and the area too small to work in to get the fittings threads to start. Remember I did not have the right tool to separate the line. Using two wide blade flat screw drivers on either side of the fitting, we pried in the direction of the arrow on the fitting. We heard a little pop and the fitting was separated. We took this opportunity to clean connection with the carb cleaner. The Loctite that comes with the o ring kit is used on the threads per the instructions. Now that the lines are separated from the fittings, the fittings thread easily. We used minimal muscle to tighten these as they are to be torqued down to only 25 ft/lbs. Since I could not get a torque wrench down there, I had to guesstimate.
11. We put the springs back in the HPOP, making sure the spring poppet goes in first and then reattach the lines. They just snap back down into place.
12. The rest of the reassembly is the opposite of the disassembly.
13. Once everything is back together you can open the fuel filter and refill with diesel. Check oil level and add if necessary. Then crank it up and check for leaks. My truck fired right up and seemed to run better.
I would like to thank all the guys here at Powerstroke.org for helping me diagnose my leak. Every oil change shop would tell me that I had a faulty rear main seal. I would have never thought repair could be so easy and cheap if it had not been for this forum.