HPOP O ring removal- no special tool required

[Kachunga]

In the event that some may be afraid to tackle this job without the #6 high compression line tool I am sharing my repair experience. With a wingman/father in law this took 2 hours to complete and the only thing we removed was a few fittings that were in the way and the lines themselves.
Let me also say that having the right tool for the job is always the best. I bought a set of disconnect tools from AutoZone. The parts guy there told me it would do the trick. It did not. So I was forced to improvise.

1. We placed a refridgerator box underneath my truck to collect the diesel and oil that was going to drain out.
2. We removed the high pressure oil temp sensor and the high pressure oil system pressure sensor.
3. We removed the plastic bracket that hold the MAP sensor vacuum hose and the IAT sensor. Its located in the middle of the Y on the turbocharger manifold. It is held on with a bolt. A 5/16" deep well socket on a 1/4" ratchet takes it off.
4. We removed the fuel return line with a 5/8" open end wrench. Also removed the piece it threads into with a t-27 torx bit. Take care not to drop these torx bolts (2), the blue O ring or the spring into the valley of despair.
5. We removed the fuel supply line with a 3/4" open end wrench. We also removed the fitting behind it that threads into the fuel filter. I believe it takes a 13/16" wrench. Since I dont have one, I carefully used a crescent wrench. At this point the diesel fuel in the fuel filter/water separator is going to run into the valley and down the back of the motor.
All of the above is done so that you have access to the HPOP lines.
6. We removed the rear line (closest to the cab) using a 3/4" wrench. As you remove it, you will see first red o ring that will be replaced.
7. We removed the front line with the same 3/4" wrench. Second o ring to replace.
Both of these lines have a spring behind them. I used a Q tip to extract the spring and inspect for debris.
8. We removed the plug at the back of the HPOP with a 13/16" 12 point socket on a 3/8" ratchet. Third o ring to replace.
9. We used carb cleaner to clean all of the fittings. Using Ford part # 2C3Z-9G804-AA install the new o rings. We used a Q tip to apply a this layer of oil on the o rings.
10. At this point we were tempted to try to put the HPOP lines back in without separating the quick disconnect. In our experience this will NOT work. The lines are just the right length and the area too small to work in to get the fittings threads to start. Remember I did not have the right tool to separate the line. Using two wide blade flat screw drivers on either side of the fitting, we pried in the direction of the arrow on the fitting. We heard a little pop and the fitting was separated. We took this opportunity to clean connection with the carb cleaner. The Loctite that comes with the o ring kit is used on the threads per the instructions. Now that the lines are separated from the fittings, the fittings thread easily. We used minimal muscle to tighten these as they are to be torqued down to only 25 ft/lbs. Since I could not get a torque wrench down there, I had to guesstimate.
11. We put the springs back in the HPOP, making sure the spring poppet goes in first and then reattach the lines. They just snap back down into place.
12. The rest of the reassembly is the opposite of the disassembly.
13. Once everything is back together you can open the fuel filter and refill with diesel. Check oil level and add if necessary. Then crank it up and check for leaks. My truck fired right up and seemed to run better.

I would like to thank all the guys here at Powerstroke.org for helping me diagnose my leak. Every oil change shop would tell me that I had a faulty rear main seal. I would have never thought repair could be so easy and cheap if it had not been for this forum.

[bumpweLL]

good write

[Southpaw]

Not sure why you had to remove all the stuff in steps 1-5?
I used a pair of long handles needle-nosed plier to seperate the quick-disconnect fittings with the fitting still on the pump. I did'nt take anything off but the lines.
You just have to know how it disconnects. It is a lot like an air fitting, with the hose being the female end, and the fitting on the pump being the male.

[Kachunga]

Originally Posted by Southpaw

Not sure why you had to remove all the stuff in steps 1-5?
I used a pair of long handles needle-nosed plier to seperate the quick-disconnect fittings with the fitting still on the pump. I did'nt take anything off but the lines.
You just have to know how it disconnects. It is a lot like an air fitting, with the hose being the female end, and the fitting on the pump being the male.

And I thought I was being expedient
The Haynes repair manual calls for removing the turbo manifold and the turbo.
Even by taking off just the quick disconnect, you still have to remove the fitting from the HPOP itself dont you? As I recall the o ring seals between the HPOP and the fitting, not the fitting and the quick disconnect. And without removing the fuel lines I was not able to swing a wrench.

[Southpaw]

Yeah I disconnected them because it was easier to get the fitting out of the pump after it was removed, or at least I thought it was. I never actually tried to take it off without disconnecting the line .
You're right about the location of the o-ring though. I changed that o-ring twice, and it still leaked....turns out there is a non-servicable o-ring inside that fitting. That is what was leaking on my truck. Replaced the fitting, and viola! Just an FYI to anyone who changes the o-rings and still has a leak from the area of the fittings on the HPOP.

[KLUSTER]

EXELLENT AVATAR, KACHUNGA, ONE OF THE BEST ONES YET!!!

[Kachunga]

Originally Posted by Southpaw

Yeah I disconnected them because it was easier to get the fitting out of the pump after it was removed, or at least I thought it was. I never actually tried to take it off without disconnecting the line .
You're right about the location of the o-ring though. I changed that o-ring twice, and it still leaked....turns out there is a non-servicable o-ring inside that fitting. That is what was leaking on my truck. Replaced the fitting, and viola! Just an FYI to anyone who changes the o-rings and still has a leak from the area of the fittings on the HPOP.

Aha, the ole non-serviceable o-ring inside the fitting trick. Thankfully my leak came from the replaceable ones. Upon inspection, they 2 out of the 3 were very worn.

Originally Posted by KLUSTER

EXELLENT AVATAR, KACHUNGA, ONE OF THE BEST ONES YET!!!

Thanks bud, its a funny story. The girl was an ex-fling of mine and got her flotation devices after I broke it off with her. Knowing I was a Ford man, she sent me that picture.

[forddieseldoctor]

Just a little FYI if you have a flex head torque wrench you can get the back fitting torqued in and the others can be reached with a short 3/8 drive socket with a wobble extension or a swivel.

[BGJ]

The girl was an ex-fling of mine and got her flotation devices after I broke it off with her. Knowing I was a Ford man, she sent me that picture.[/QUOTE]

Any chance of getting her back??? Looks like a keeper to me.

[looking4psd]

Originally Posted by Southpaw

Yeah I disconnected them because it was easier to get the fitting out of the pump after it was removed, or at least I thought it was. I never actually tried to take it off without disconnecting the line .
You're right about the location of the o-ring though. I changed that o-ring twice, and it still leaked....turns out there is a non-servicable o-ring inside that fitting. That is what was leaking on my truck. Replaced the fitting, and viola! Just an FYI to anyone who changes the o-rings and still has a leak from the area of the fittings on the HPOP.

Do you remember the part number for this fitting and about how much it cost you. I will need to replace my HPOP o-rings soon and if it isn't too bad I will just take care of the fitting while i'm in there.