something killing batteries every 2 days...so annoying

[tturbonegro]

i cant figure it out....2 brand new batteries and a brand new alternator...works great for 2 days then dead...i have replaced batteries and alternator 3 times..yesterday i ran all over for work, started the truck 15 times with no hesitation, now this morning...DEAD..i always turn off radio, make sure doors are shut, lights off etc...
GPR is working properly
alternator seems to be working properly
:blah::blah::blah:

when i take the volt meter from post to terminal i get 11v (wich means draw somewhere i believe)..i pulled every fuse and realy and the reading did NOT change...



this is so dumb and annoying...im gonna have to run a shuf off switch to batteries and have to deal with no keyless entry...or drop it off somewhere and maybe they can figure it out...

may be a dumb question but..i dont have an aftermaket alarm but could it be a malfunction in factory alarm? is there a difference when you hit lock button twice and horn beeps as oppsoed to only hitting lock once? does hitting it twice active alarm? could it be when i hit it twice it would drain batts somehow?

any suggestions or anyone with similar problem ??

[jc82chevyman]

You need to do a parasitic drain test. You need a meter capable of meausring DC amps then disconnect one battery completely then disconnect the negative cable of the other battery and put your meter between the negative cable and the negative post you shouldn't really have more than .1 amps of drain.

[bevansracing]

My old dually did this also and after 11 trips to the shop a buddy finally figured out something in the interior module would wake it up out of its sleep cycle and it would run all nite and drain the batts. we put a switch on it to kill the power to it and i sold it . that module was expensive if i recall correctly

[KYStrokin]

I just went through the same thing. I just had a bad run of battries. Thanks to the duralast golds and the 10 year non prorated warrenty covered. i went through 4 batteries. Finnaly got two good batts. The batteries would get a bad cell and only hold like 4 amps instead of 12 so it was draining the other one.

[tturbonegro]

my batts are just barely dead i think...like 11.6v..could i just keep getting bad ones?????

i have a fluke 73-iii meter

this is with both NEG. unhooked,both positive still connected..
drivers side neg. hooked to meter
drivers side neg. terminal to meter



this is with drivers side battery disconnected (pos. and neg.)..
passanger side pos. still connected
passanger side neg. hooked to meter
passanger side terminal hooked to meter

[symbols]

Ok. Something is not right. Are you sure your fuses in your meter are good? You should be pulling a small amount of current. Is your hood light on?

[cchase]

Have the batterys tested. I was chasing the same thing, new batterys and alt, also had dead cells in batterys.

[tturbonegro]

with both neg. unhooked i put my test light (pictured) from neg. terminal to neg. cable and green light comes on pretty solid.....
pulled every fuse and relay in both fuse boxes and unhooked alternator
light DID NOT go off at all...
checked gpr and relay next to it as well...they both seem to be ok as well...
also pulled trailer lights plug and unhooked recon smoked led brake light...test light still lights up
also pulled underhood light, glovebox light, and dome light to be safe..

also..while digging through everything i could think of, i popped off the headlight switch and these 2 thingies (one red and one black) were bend together and touching each other...but after i straightened them out the test light was still steady lit ...



..gonna exchange batteries for 4th time, stop at dealership and have them test new alt. again just for sh*ts and gigles..(first oem replacement was bad) and take it to my mechanic after that tomm. i guess....

[symbols]

Have you checked the fuses in your meter?

[tturbonegro]

no how do i do this? change them with new ones and test again?