Rough idle, LOUD knock from one cylinder, heavy dark smoke - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 12-26-2008, 09:24 PM
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Rough idle, LOUD knock from one cylinder, heavy dark smoke

Okay, so this morning on my way to work, my 2000 7.3 powerstroke Excursion was running great, but all of a sudden I noticed a loud knock coming from the engine. It sounds to be on one cylinder only judging by the frequency of the knock coinciding with the piston travel of one cylinder. Pull into my work, and now the engine is running pretty rough, but only at idle, and still had plenty of power under acceleration. And, the exhaust is just absolutely billowing dark grey smoke just at idle that smells terrible and burns your eyes. Under acceleration, the knock quiets down and it smokes white or light grey smoke. After work I drove it home and part way home it lost a lot of power and started shuttering heavily when I would accelerate or decelerate but was pretty smooth and quiet when not under an acceleration or deceleration load. The knock is coming from the drivers side of the engine, and that is where my exhaust temp sensor is located, and I noticed a drop of about 200 degrees below normal on my exhaust temp guage. Normally runs around 750-800 degrees, when not climbing a hill, but now was only reading around 550. I work 12 hour shifts, so I didn't have much time to do any diagnostics on it yet, and I have learned that so often other people have some amazing information to share that can save a person lots of time. So if any of you have any ideas of what my problem is, I would greatly appreciate it!

My thoughts from what I've read in others posts on here, is maybe a bad injector, or bad injector o-ring or something letting oil into the cylinder causing the heavy knocking and heavy smoke. But I don't know if that would explain the loss of power accross the rest of the engine the further I drove it. It was almost like a progressing problem that got worse the further I went. My house is about an 8 mile drive from my work, and when I left work I had the heavy knocking and heavy white/brownish smoke, but still plenty of power, and by time I got home, I had the heavy knocking, HEAVY dark grey blackish smoke just billowing out the exhaust, and less power.

So yeah, thanks for any help!!
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Old 12-26-2008, 09:39 PM
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Do you know if the truck is missing at idea or if it is just running rough?
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Old 12-26-2008, 09:55 PM
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here's a bump for you bud
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Old 12-27-2008, 06:36 PM
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I'm not sure if it is "missing". I don't think it is. Rather I think it is getting excessive fuel or oil into that cylinder. I just got home from work and don't have to go to bed real early tonight so I am going to go out and freeze my butt off seeing what I can find. It just makes a really loud knocking sound at idle which quiets down upon accelerating the engine.
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Old 12-27-2008, 06:53 PM
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psd

have you changed your vc gaskets and wiring harness yet?
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Old 12-27-2008, 07:11 PM
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Being a SD, I wouldn't think the UVC harness is bad to start off with.

You definitely need to pull the codes and run a cylinder contribution/balance test with a buzz test.
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Old 12-27-2008, 09:47 PM
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Okay, had a chance to spend some time working on it tonight. Pulled the codes, the only codes in the computer were low input voltage to glow plugs on banks 1 and 2 which I know I have a glow plug problem because the thing has been pretty hard to start when I don't keep it plugged in. But that's not the current issue.

First thing I discovered when I took the air tube off the output side of the turbo going to the air cooler then the intake was that there was quite a bit of standing oil in the tube. Is it normal for there to be a small amount of oil passing through the turbo on the pressurized air side? My thought when I discovered that was that maybe that oil was passing through and getting into the cylinders, or favoring the left front cylinder for some reason and causing all the smoke and knocking. So I left that tube disconnected and ran the engine for a while, and it just continued with the heavy knocking and terrible smoke. After running it for a while though, I took the temperature off the manifold, and by the left front cylinder the manifold was 420 degrees, but the other three behind it were only around 250 degrees. So I decided to take the valve cover off, and take that injector out to see what was going on with it. Now, I am not real familiar with the powerstroke engine. I have rebuilt a detroit diesel engine, and have worked on other diesel engines, but I am not super familiar with the powerstroke enough to know if what I am seeing is normal or not. When I pulled the injector out of it's hole, a bunch of black oil gushed out of one of the holes around the injector, and pretty well filled the cylinder with oil. Pulled out the second injector back, and got the same thing. Is that oil supposed to be there? The poor running, and the heavy smoke, and the smell of the smoke and the very loud knocking in that left front cylinder only, seems to indicate to me that oil is getting into the cylinder. I know there are two sections on the injector with o ring between them. I know one of the sections has to be for the diesel fuel. And I am assuming that maybe the other section is supposed to have the oil which either acts as an injector cooler, or has some functional purpose for the operation of the injector. I am really unfamiliar with those kind of injectors.

The stupid thing about this whole thing is that I still do not even have a shop manual for this engine. I can't believe I still don't. Just haven't had to do any work to it yet. When I get me a shop manual on Monday it will help me out a lot.

What is a contribution test? And what is a Buzz test?
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Old 12-27-2008, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckoholic View Post
Okay, had a chance to spend some time working on it tonight. Pulled the codes, the only codes in the computer were low input voltage to glow plugs on banks 1 and 2 which I know I have a glow plug problem because the thing has been pretty hard to start when I don't keep it plugged in. But that's not the current issue.

First thing I discovered when I took the air tube off the output side of the turbo going to the air cooler then the intake was that there was quite a bit of standing oil in the tube. Is it normal for there to be a small amount of oil passing through the turbo on the pressurized air side? My thought when I discovered that was that maybe that oil was passing through and getting into the cylinders, or favoring the left front cylinder for some reason and causing all the smoke and knocking. So I left that tube disconnected and ran the engine for a while, and it just continued with the heavy knocking and terrible smoke. After running it for a while though, I took the temperature off the manifold, and by the left front cylinder the manifold was 420 degrees, but the other three behind it were only around 250 degrees. So I decided to take the valve cover off, and take that injector out to see what was going on with it. Now, I am not real familiar with the powerstroke engine. I have rebuilt a detroit diesel engine, and have worked on other diesel engines, but I am not super familiar with the powerstroke enough to know if what I am seeing is normal or not. When I pulled the injector out of it's hole, a bunch of black oil gushed out of one of the holes around the injector, and pretty well filled the cylinder with oil. Pulled out the second injector back, and got the same thing. Is that oil supposed to be there? The poor running, and the heavy smoke, and the smell of the smoke and the very loud knocking in that left front cylinder only, seems to indicate to me that oil is getting into the cylinder. I know there are two sections on the injector with o ring between them. I know one of the sections has to be for the diesel fuel. And I am assuming that maybe the other section is supposed to have the oil which either acts as an injector cooler, or has some functional purpose for the operation of the injector. I am really unfamiliar with those kind of injectors.

The stupid thing about this whole thing is that I still do not even have a shop manual for this engine. I can't believe I still don't. Just haven't had to do any work to it yet. When I get me a shop manual on Monday it will help me out a lot.

What is a contribution test? And what is a Buzz test?
Contrib/balance test will tell you which injector is bad. Buzz test will test the circuit to the injectors as well as the IDM.

Now that you've pulled 2 injectors, you need to order 2 injector o-ring kits and reinstall them. You will need to pull the glow plugs from those cylinders and remove the oil.

All that oil is what your injectors work off of.
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:04 AM
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The injectors are hydraulically controlled. The hydraulics is oil. You have an oil rail on both sides of the engine and the oil rails are full of oil. With the injector in its hole the oil will only be distributed to each injector as it is controlled. By removing an injector you have pulled the cork and the oil will flow into the injector cup and from there it will fill your cylinder which will hydro lock the engine. A suction tool to suck the oil out and or removing the glow plugs and cranking the engine over to spit the oil out will work also. If you crank it over with glow plug removed put the valve cover on with a few bolts so oil will not shoot all over. You might want to pull the fuse to the fuel pump also so no fuel will be pumping out. That fuse is under the hood #19 position and is a 20amp fuse that controls the fuel pump motor and the PCM. Very important to purge the oil out of the cylinders.
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:11 AM
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You can also use a wire to jump the solenoid on the passenger side fender. Remove the top post wire (has a rubber cover) and use a jumper wire from it to the positive post on your battery. This will engage the starter and turn the motor over without supplying power to the PCM or IDM.

Fuel will not flow, injectors will not fire.

But, you will be pumping oil to the HPOP and refilling the heads.


ALSO, very important... DO NOT CRANK MORE THAN 30 seconds at a time. After 30 seconds, let the starter rest for 5-10 minutes.
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