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Old 02-17-2014, 07:20 AM
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2000 7.3 no start

Hey guys, I own a 2000 f-350 and am having a very hard time starting it. Replaced glow plugs and relay. Seems as though its not getting fuel or oil pressure. Perhaps losing prime or bad injector. Idk. Crank for awhile before any firing, then puffs some black smoke but won't start. Ether had no effect. Been ending up pull starting it usually takes at least 1/4 mile pull or more before it wants to start and run. I also know its gonna blow some white smoke on start but the smoke seems excessive untill its warmed up. Then produces a slight gray smoke instead of black when you get on it. My turbo was bad ordered one yesterday that could have been some of smoke but please let me know what you guys think. This truck is my main horse and I need it running. Thanks
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:11 PM
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More info please...

1. Is there a particular temperature that we are talking about or does it happen every time?

2. Where is the oil level on the dipstick? (fill to full + maximum of 2qts over to diagnose oil airation due to oil pickup issues)

3. Do you have access to and AutoEnginuity or equivalent scan tool? (need a way to monitor the Injector control pressure, need to be making steady 500 psi during cranking. Also need to monitor IPR duty cycle.)

4. Does your truck have any visible oil leaks (even small ones) on the oil cooler? Elsewhere on the engine? Leaking oil cooler o-rings can alow enough air to get into the oil during cranking to really make things hard to start.

5. What is your fuel fill level on the gauge?

6. Do you hear the fuel pump run during the wait to start cycle?

7. Manual or Auto? Not sure about autos, but for manuals the parking brake must be set (dash light illuminated) to allow intake heater to function.

8. Does the truck sound like it is cranking evenly?

Other tips: Just because the "wait to start" light goes off doesn't mean it is ready to start when things are cold. The glow plugs will remain on for up to 90 seconds during cold weather conditions. The first start attempt is the best chance, wait the 90 seconds with the key on, then cycle ignition and crank after the wait to start light goes out. After the first attempt any unburned fuel/oil/exhaust can increase the amount of energy required or otherwise inhibit the start of the combustion in any given cylinder. Also if your oil becomes airiated in the first attempt the truck will not start until the air bubbles are allowed to settle out.

Last edited by Jon_001; 02-17-2014 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:32 AM
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You have to Pull it 1/4mi to Start it? Dude you've got a Serious Problem!

As Jon suggested above, you'd really be best served with the right Diagnostic Scanner to monitor the sensors and find out what's going wrong (Unfortunately, it takes a special scanner to retrieve them and the Genreric OBD-II scanners like the Auto Parts stores use don't do us much good...) The AutoEnginuity is a great choice.

Also, about the AIH, it's really not a starting aid as not only does the Parking Brake have to be set (in a Stick), the GPs need to have been already cycled off...
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:45 PM
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I think it does it only when cold out can't really tell cause I don't have heated place to keep it. Did it to me at 25 out and had to pull it.

Full on oil/ it does take a bit of cranking to get any oil pressure on the gauge.

I do have access to a scanner just gotta get truck to it or have him stop by with it.

I do hear the fuel pump running. Prob wouldn't hurt to pull fuel filter and monitor fuel flow into bowl.

Fuel level makes no difference. Does it when full or low

It could have an oil leak, I need to wash motor. My turbo went out and there is oil everywhere under hood. New turbo should be here tomorrow.

Its a manual. No aih heater i took it out a while back. Only difference it made was you have to let truck warm up before driving on cold days or it would stall.

Truck seems to crack normal maybe a bit slow but at least 300 rpm. Replaced batts this fall.

I know I should have scanned it already but it seems like more than a sensor problem. Only reason I say that is because once you start it, it runs ok and you can shut off and restart no problem just don't let it sit to long. Like over night.

Thanks for the responses
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:50 PM
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Did it just do this all the sudden or what? U pulled it a quarter mile to get it started? Why would u do that? Pull the top off the fuel bowl and watch the level when turning key on and off if it don't overflow in a few turns u ain't getting fuel. If that's the case start at the filters in the pick up and work your way forward assuming your pump is pumping. To be honest my first guess from your crazy description is injector problems u can pull the tops off the injectors and check the clearance between the armature plate and if u can't get 2000 on a feeler gauge u got problems.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:41 PM
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Just curious, was the oil leak really the turbo, or the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve actuator in the Turbo Pedestal?

Does your truck have a block heater?
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:55 PM
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plug it in, see if it helps.

if she's smoking' white, that's unburned/raw fuel. how's your glow plug system working?
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:56 PM
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Its getting plenty of fuel that's not a prob. Do think its inj. Related though. The turbo was leaking oil, turbo was soaked in oil on inside and out. I realize the ccv is right there but seemed like allot of oil. Not ruling out ebv I'm replacing the pedestal with the turbo, pedestal and up pipes should be here in a few days. Kinda irrelevant but up pipes were leaking fairly bad. As I stated I replaced glow plugs and relay less than z2 months ago and made sure everything was getting power. Made a difference but didn't cure problem. also im from mn everyday in the 10 day has a low of zero or colder. Its always plugged in.

Had my starter go out and I replaced it with a high torque starter also helped a bit but didn't cure the problem.

When I started it this morning it was about 10 out and plugged in cranked enough to have to throw a batt charger on but you could hear it trying to fire. Second round it started trying to fire earlier one it started it spits and sputters for 15-20 seconds then sounds like a cold psd.
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:00 AM
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Was also making a real loud blowing and at high rpms a screech. The blowing I figured was bad fan clutch the screech I suspected was the turbo based on the amount of oil around and its performance. Turns out both were from the bad fan clutch as you guys might have already knew.
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:31 AM
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If you look in my gallery there's some pics of turbo area
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