2001 7.3 serious trouble, please help! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:38 AM
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2001 7.3 serious trouble, please help!

Hi gang. I am in need of some guidance here. Today, my beloved 01 F250 went TU. I last drove it around a week and a half ago. It has recently been mildly chilly, around 30 degrees. Today when attempting to go to the store I ran into the following problems.

-VERY VERY hard start. It literally took 5 minutes to start the bugger. It would just try to turn over with intermittent sputtering for about 30 seconds each attempt. When it finally did turn over, it would sputter like an asthmatic and shake like crazy. The RPM's would hover around 300 and then just die. When I finally did get it going, I had to give it throttle to get it to stay over 500 RPM's.

- After about 2 minutes, it simply turned off. After more hard starts, it would fire off but the RPM's would just drop to 0 and die. If I hold the throttle down, I can keep it there for a while at any RPM, but as soon as I let off, it drops all the way down to 0 again and dies. Finally, it would hover around 400 RPM's but would again just die after several minutes.

-While attempting to just shuttle around a little bit, I would put it in reverse and it would back up a little, then just die. Literally just shut off. The idle RPM's would never break 5-600. Normally it is around 9-1000. While pulling in my driveway, it died again, no warning, just died.

-Also, there is a sort of buzzing/ humming sound that increases when I apply the brakes.

Additional info:
-I do not have a block heater.
-I have recently replaced the CAM sensor.
-Service Engine Soon light is always on, maybe exhaust related?
-Water in Fuel light comes on sometimes just before it dies.
-It has worked fine until now, no problems in the last weeks.

Please help. I literally have no idea where to start. Thanks.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:52 AM
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Why dont you have a block heater?
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:56 AM
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The two things that come to mind are;

IDM/UVCH connections (you REALLY should find-out what code is turning the SES light on)



AND, I'd want to know if there's a problem with Fuel Delivery.

The pump will only run for 15-20sec when you first roll-on the key so, do that a few times to know you've refilled everything. The yellow lever behind the filter is a drain and a good way to determine of there's fuel in the bowl (it drains to a metal tube against the motor, look over the top of the pass ft. tire). Open the drain lever by sliding it to the side and look for fuel to run out of that tube. Collect it in a container and be sure it's clean & water-free and how much came out. Close it again and cycle the key on for 20 sec. Open the drain again. Collect it again and compare the volume to before. Cycle it again to refill everything.
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000-7.3L View Post
Why dont you have a block heater?
I don't know. It never came with one when I bought it.
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:21 AM
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[QUOTE=NoRalPh;8130346]The two things that come to mind are;

IDM/UVCH connections (you REALLY should find-out what code is turning the SES light on)

Im sorry, what is the IDM/UVCH connection?
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:34 AM
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I believe you should have a block heater. The plug should be zip tied up around your drivers side tow hook. You can also look right behind the oil filter and there will be a wire coming out running to your frame. That wire should be your block heater. Just follow it to the front of your truck.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:50 AM
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[QUOTE=sbluke55;8130722]I believe you should have a block heater. The plug should be zip tied up around your drivers side tow hook. You can also look right behind the oil filter and there will be a wire coming out running to your frame. That wire should be your block heater. Just follow it to the front of your truck.


I found it thank you It was hidden way back in there.
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:14 PM
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I don't think, at 30 degrees, the block heater is going to be your problem...

Look at the video I linked, it describes the UVCH in detail. The quick test for you would be to get it running for a min, do what ever you have to do to keep it running, and feel the exhaust manifold. If one side is much colder than the other then, that's to side not running

You'd be directed to, what's probably your trouble, by the code in the computer I'd bet though. There are Many things that it could be. Unfortunately, it takes a special scanner to retrieve them and the Genreric OBD-II scanners like the Auto Parts stores use don't do us much good...
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Old 02-05-2014, 04:22 PM
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So here is an update. I plugged in the block heater for about 3 hours. I tested my GPR with a multimeter. My GPR was putting out 9.7v max. It never reached the 12 recommended. I was able to get to the harness on the driver side VC and test the GP pins. They were all right around 2 ohms. I didn't have time to delve into the other side. After this, I dumped the fuel in my Filter and it looked fine, other than being kind of dirty. No water. Also, it did pump fuel when the key was turned to on. It started right up with no issues this time around and idled right around 7-800 RPM's. No problems with driving. Not sure what is going on, but the next step is to get the codes read and take a look under the valve covers. What do you think?
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