2001 F350 7.3L barely won't start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:15 PM
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2001 F350 7.3L barely won't start

I just picked up a 2001 F350 with 206k on the odometer. I do not know the previous maintenance history other than what I can spot looks new. After gutting lots of freak wiring that cause all sorts of issues I have finally managed to get the PCM acting normal. But it won't start! Fuel bowl is full and I just put in a new filter (old one was pretty dirty). After this with the pedal to the floor and some good crank time it started but it only ran for seconds before starving out and dying. Seems to me like it is coming up just short of enough fuel to run. The ICP sensor does have a little oil passing through it, but it runs the same with or without and I really don't want to drop $200 unless I absolutely need to. You can crank all day and it will spit and sputter like it is inches from starting. Anyone have suggestions? I will most likely replace ICP tomorrow since I am out of ideas. What could cause the engine to just barely come short of starting up?

I do know this truck has sat for at minimum 3 months without being able to start and it is very likely that it sat for much longer. I live in alaska where it is suppose to be cold, but lately by some freak act of god it is 30-40 outside. Could that still cause issues? I added some fuel mixed with anti-gel stuff so it is half new fuel half old in the tank.
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Old 01-24-2014, 06:31 AM
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First, save your money. The ICP is not one of the first things I would go-to with your symptoms. Oil through it might be an indication it's not 100% but, LOTS of us have that on running motors now

Here's my regular "No Start" list;

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

(On your '01 you MAY or MAY NOT see this because of an electrical upgrade that took place that year. If you HAVE a Trans Temp Gauge in the factory cluster you aren't supposed to see cranking rpm. If NOT you Should)

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain level to check)

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To eliminate this being a simple Glow Plug system problem, Plug It IN for 3hrs and see if it's any different.

How does the Engine Oil look? Bad oil can foam at the high pressures required to run the injection system (it would have to be really bad not just "old" though)

You could have a oil delivery problem too. If the engine oil pump can't supply the HPOP with enough oil, if it can't keep-up, it might do that (check the HPOP reservoir after it stops running)

How does the IPR look? Wires OK? Solenoid secured to it?

This is all stuff you can do for FREE, a good place to Start BUT, in the end, the proper scanner will be the quickest, cheapest, way to point you in the right direction. (Unfortunately, it takes a special scanner to retrieve them and the Genreric OBD-II scanners like the Auto Parts stores use don't do us much good. You need to be able to monitor the sensors with something that has the Ford proprietary diesel library in it)
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Old 01-24-2014, 02:18 PM
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Ok well yesterday after gutting random wiring that was shorting I managed to get the WTS and water in fuel lights back on. After going back to the truck today they are both off now! The door chime is dinging at me in a pattern until I pull the #30 fuse and then it stops.

Yesterday when the PCM was 100% there was RPM on the tach. The fuel bowl stayed full throughout the day of working on it and it did refill and emptying it. There is no chip. I can't hear a pump working, but I will check it next. I added fuel and the gauge went up so even if it was bad, there is diesel in there. It does crank slow and sucks out all the juice from the batteries really quick. They are new batteries so I am assuming start is dead. It did managed to start when the PCM was working but it was under full throttle with lots of cranking and it barely stayed alive for more than a few seconds.

Oil looks normal and is at a good level. Haven't checked HPOP yet. Not sure about glow plugs either.

So obviously still some issues to deal with, but the lack of WTS is my biggest concern right now. Any advice on how to solve that? Fuse #30 checks out. Fuel bowl heater already unplugged. I really don't want to buy a new PCM!

Oh and just to clear confusion the water in fuel light wasn't on all the time. It just never lit up with the key on along with the WTS light. Then they both worked and suddenly same issue as before, no lights

Last edited by justsomeguy; 01-24-2014 at 02:21 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:20 PM
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The lack of a WTS really is a good indication the PCM isn't running and you'll never get it started (Don't waste the batteries without a WTS). It also controls the Fuel Pump and the "rising tach" when cranking. Gotta get that figured-out...

In the Vast majority of cases, it's about power. Bad fuses and connections are usually to blame. Go over them all, the PCM is powered from several sources and you should use a meter to check them by probing on Both sides (thru the tops "holes).

A bad Chip connection is often responsible (if there is one), otherwise I would go-over the wiring issues you've already been working on. You can also pull the PCM and check the Plug for Power & Ground at the appropriate pins there.
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