Help!!! coolant in oil and hole in front cover behind water pump - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 11-19-2006, 08:43 PM
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Angry Help!!! coolant in oil and hole in front cover behind water pump

Anybody every seen this happen ?

Your not going to believe this but the engine front cover had a hole in it again. This is the 2nd time ths has happened. I removed the water pump and found front cover all pitted and a small hole to oil system.I can not understand whats happening.this time we used the extended life coolant and its only been 5 months and 20,000 mi. I talked to some people and one said it has a electrolysis problem in the coolant. maybe a ground problem.Well I have replaced the front cover and water pump this week and It doesn't look good. started truck and after 5 mins of running, noticed oil pan began to leak drips of oil in three places and small bubbles in another. I pulled dip stick and there was steam comming out the tube. I took off the oil filler cap it was puffing steam. I was woundering if anyone knows a way to make some kind of tool to pressurize each cyl.with valves closed to see if it will hold pressure and see if a cyl. has leak. Im going to pull heads anyway but wanted to see if I could find a weak or leaking cyl. maybe head gasket or pin holes in cyl wall. I did a cyl. balance test with a snapon scanner and found no bad cyl.I dont have a diesel compresson gauge to check cyls.
Truck runs smooth
see my gallery for new pics of cover.

I need to hear from all of you !
what could be causing this cover damage
and now pressure in tne crankcase

Thanks robbie

http://photos.thedieselstop.com/showgall...pe=&ppuser=
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Old 11-19-2006, 09:15 PM
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usually when u have coolent in your oil its a blown headgasket
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Old 11-19-2006, 09:31 PM
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Getting the oil pan to seal while the engine is still in the p/u is going to be very hard. And you need to use the silicone that is ford recommended. To seal the oil pan you should remove the engine, turn engine upside down on engine stand, remove oil pan, clean, resilicone, and let set overnight. then reinstall engine.

Now your coolant problem. when you refilled the coolant did you add any additive like fw-16, or did your extended life coolant already have it. Ford recommends adding four bottles of fw-16 when changing coolant or waterpump (when using the green coolant) Check your ground to your engine. Here is an article I Found

Simple Shop Test for Electrolysis

To test for electrolysis, connect the negative probe of a digital D.C. voltmeter to the battery's negative post. Then submerge the meter's positive probe into the coolant at the filler neck. Be sure that the positive probe does not touch any metal.

Next, note the meter reading, which should be no more than 0.10 volts. If a higher voltage is detected, methodically shut off or disconnect one electrical component or accessory at a time while watching the voltmeter. When the voltage reading drops to zero, you've pinpointed the electrical component with the defective or missing ground. Since electrolysis might occur only when a certain component is energized, have a helper switch each vehicle component on and off while you observe the voltmeter readings.

To check components or accessories that don't have an on/off switch, use a long jumper wire connected to the battery's negative post to provide a temporary ground to each electrical accessory. Ground each component with the jumper wire and watch the meter. If the jumper wire restores a missing or faulty ground, the meter will drop to zero.

Be sure to check for intermittent voltage surges generated by the starter during cranking. To do so, watch the meter as you crank the engine. Any jump in voltage during cranking indicates a loose, faulty, or missing engine ground. Any electrical device with a huge current draw, like a starter motor or radiator cooling fan, will chew up a cooling system far faster than a trickle of voltage from a poorly grounded underhood relay or other low-amperage device.
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Old 11-20-2006, 12:29 PM
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coolant in oil

thanks guys
when this happened the first time we replaced the green coolant with the gold extended life but didnt add any additives.
It just happened again so soon, and last time I didnt have any pressure on crank case. but after this repair.she kinda looks like a train at dip stick and filler neck.coolant is not draining into case anymore. only when running and temp get up you see steaming.Im getting to know this engine pretty good had all bolts out before except exhaust. now the heads will come off. and yes it is hard to reseal the pan. I guess I was very luck the first time it never leaked. but I had the gray sealant all over me.That stuff will burn your skin but its some good stuff. ford and international fleetrite.
anyway allcheck grounding after I get it up and running. I wont be working on it until after turkey day. thanks again

O yea im not the driver and dont know if they let it run hot or not. all I know right now is it started smoking real bad and had no water,I think they said it cutoff ? that means run hot to me .
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Old 12-07-2006, 04:30 PM
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I'd check out the oil cooler (driver side of block) because it is very common for the o-rings to leak water into the oil or just leak period as well as i have seen tons of internally cracked oil coolers that make people think its headgaskets but it isn't really especially when their is no stability issues and the truck seems to operate to "well" for a headgasket problem...
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Old 12-07-2006, 05:28 PM
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thanks for reply but new oil cooler was install five months ago when this happened the first time
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