Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Moses Lake, WA
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Getting the oil pan to seal while the engine is still in the p/u is going to be very hard. And you need to use the silicone that is ford recommended. To seal the oil pan you should remove the engine, turn engine upside down on engine stand, remove oil pan, clean, resilicone, and let set overnight. then reinstall engine.
Now your coolant problem. when you refilled the coolant did you add any additive like fw-16, or did your extended life coolant already have it. Ford recommends adding four bottles of fw-16 when changing coolant or waterpump (when using the green coolant) Check your ground to your engine. Here is an article I Found
Simple Shop Test for Electrolysis
To test for electrolysis, connect the negative probe of a digital D.C. voltmeter to the battery's negative post. Then submerge the meter's positive probe into the coolant at the filler neck. Be sure that the positive probe does not touch any metal.
Next, note the meter reading, which should be no more than 0.10 volts. If a higher voltage is detected, methodically shut off or disconnect one electrical component or accessory at a time while watching the voltmeter. When the voltage reading drops to zero, you've pinpointed the electrical component with the defective or missing ground. Since electrolysis might occur only when a certain component is energized, have a helper switch each vehicle component on and off while you observe the voltmeter readings.
To check components or accessories that don't have an on/off switch, use a long jumper wire connected to the battery's negative post to provide a temporary ground to each electrical accessory. Ground each component with the jumper wire and watch the meter. If the jumper wire restores a missing or faulty ground, the meter will drop to zero.
Be sure to check for intermittent voltage surges generated by the starter during cranking. To do so, watch the meter as you crank the engine. Any jump in voltage during cranking indicates a loose, faulty, or missing engine ground. Any electrical device with a huge current draw, like a starter motor or radiator cooling fan, will chew up a cooling system far faster than a trickle of voltage from a poorly grounded underhood relay or other low-amperage device.
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